Electrical problem: 1999 Lund Pro-V SE 1775, no power to main power switch

Last fall before I put my boat up for the winter, we had a drenching rain. After the rain I wanted to run the bilge pump. When I turned the main power switch on, the LED glowed for a second and then went out. I lost power to everything connected through the main…fish finder, bilge pump, lights, etc.

I have power to my anchor winch and my batteries are fully charged. All fuses are OK. I replaced the main power switch which didn’t help, and there is no power to the switch per my meter.

Wanted to ask if anyone has an idea before I take the console apart or take the boat into a local dealer.

Thank you!

The problem has to be between your main power switch and the battery. Try checking continuity between the battery side of your main power switch and the connection on the wire going to your main power switch at the battery. You should have continuity on this wire. If you have an open circuit, you either have a cut or broken wire or a bad fuse. I’d suspect a bad fuse.
Sometimes, a fuse can be bad even though it looks good visually. You can check the continuity or the resistance on the fuse to see if it’s good or bad.
It should be fairly simple to diagnose what your problem is without paying someone to do it for you.

Karry,

Thanks! The fuses all look OK visually, but I haven’t checked the continuity with my meter. All of the battery connections are correct, I have them all labelled and check them every year. I agree with you that there has to be a problem between the batteries and the main power switch. I am not getting any voltage to the switch with my meter.

To check the continuity of the wiring I will have to pull off the top of the console as you just can’t see the whole length of the wiring from below.

All of the in-line fuses in the wiring are intact. My brother-in-law is an electronics technician and will be visiting soon. We can work on it together and I don’t need to fix it to use the boat.

Looks like a bit of work ahead!

Dick

Look at the hot wire from the battery and 2 or 3 foot on it from the battery see if you have a main fuse in line. It will be in an inline red cover. Mine had this and it was blown. The one I have the owners manual does not show this fuse

My 1996 Pro V also has inline fuses within 3 ft of the battery. Blow these on the accessory wire and nothing works.

Thanks!

I have a 24 volt system with 2 deep cycle batteries. There are 4 in-line fuses coming off the batteries and all of them are fine. I have had them blow in the past and it is pretty obvious. So, I think Karry is probably correct, that there is an interruption somewhere between the batteries and the main power switch.

To check that completely I will have to follow the hot wire(red) from the origin to the switch. To do that I have to remove the console. I guess I was hoping for a simpler solution:-), but it seems like I have more work ahead.

Dick

Dick,
Normally, your dash panel is powered by the starting battery, not the trolling motor batteries. If you have a separate starting battery, look for the power lead & fuse that would run to your dash. As a test, run a lead from the battery to your panel, and see if everything works.

HRG

HRG,

Thank you!

I know my starting battery powers the tilt as well. Interesting. I will check that out, but I thought that the accessories were powered by the deep cycle batteries. I could be mistaken, and if I am the fix will be simple.

For several reasons the boat is not in the water yet…still in the garage at the lake. I will get back there in a few days and hope you are correct!!!

Thanks again!

Dick

One other thing to check also. Pull your ground off the battery and clean it good. On my Pro V the switch panel is run by the starting battery

Your standard accessories should be powered by starting battery.