Electrical Issues….

  • Jason Tjader
    Posts: 3
    #1776622

    I have 2000 Skeeter 1775t with F80 Yamaha and Faria Gauges. So these are ‘aftermarket’ according to Yamaha and the wire harness has to be modified I assume to connect these as that is how it is done behind my instrument panel.

    The issue I am having is that when I turn the ignition to ‘run’ I only have 6-7vdc at the tach and fuel gauge, should be 12v. I have 12v at the main power switch on my switch panel and I know I am getting 12v from the battery which is fully charged.

    Has anyone with the same boat had this issue? Or similar type setup? When I open the panels, there are wires cut from factory harnesses and spliced in. I am thinking it was done when rigging the Yamaha to the Skeeter Faria Gauges.

    I should mention that the motor starts and runs fine and all my accessories work fine for long periods on the water with the big motor off, so I don’t believe it is a battery issue. I am having issues with the fuel gauge not reading correct and a tach that does not work and I want to rule out not having 12v at those gauges. I have eliminated the fuel sending unit and the gauge as being bad.

    Thank you.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1776628

    How do you know the fuel gauge is working? Mine brand new one failed. Fuel sender sends the amount of voltage to gauge which interprets the strength of voltage to full/empty. Not sure the operating range of your gauge but in theory let’s say 6v is half full.

    Tach could just be another issue.

    I’d check out all the grounds on back of instrument panel to make sure no corrosion set in. Lots of wires back there, pia.

    Good luck.

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1776653

    I’d check out all the grounds on back of instrument panel to make sure no corrosion set in. Lots of wires back there, pia.

    One of my best tools is a length of wire with alligator clips at both ends. Make one up, attach 1 side to the tach ground, the other directly to the battery negative terminal.

    I’m also guessing it’s a ground-side problem.

    HRG

    Jason Tjader
    Posts: 3
    #1776740

    I tested the gauge as per instruction. Disconnected sender wire, turned on power gauge went to empty. Then jumped the sensor to ground on gauge it went to full. They say the gauge is good if that happens…

    My issue started as an empty tank reading as 3/4 full. Replaced the sender and it still reads 3/4 full at empty. Found that out the hard way…Ha Ha.

    So I think it is a wiring issue as well. Just looking for where to start.

    fishingchallenged
    Posts: 314
    #1776824

    Start with the ground as HRG recommended. If you have a volt/ohm meter measure the resistance between the gauges and the battery negative. Grounds are the foundation the house is built on. Once that is confirmed good, you can start straightening the walls.

    Dean Marshall
    Chippewa Falls WI /Ramsey MN
    Posts: 5854
    #1776872

    HRG has good advice, also double check that your float isnt stuck in the tank.

    basseyes
    Posts: 2511
    #1776874

    Agreed on the ground. Grounds are easy to overlook but usually easy to fix.

    Jason Tjader
    Posts: 3
    #1777360

    Thanks for the replies. I did disconnect the plug from the motor and harness. Checked voltage coming off motor and I have 12v so I am assuming it is in the harness that goes to the gauges. When I plugged it back in, my tach gauge actually showed some signs of life. I will keep you posted on what I find in the end.

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