Just some advise on Quality – take it as you will
completely wrap your cut ends of the wire. i see guys cutting corners and leaving the sharp cut end projecting out, Hooks are sharp enough, don’t need another way to a hand sliced open.
Using over .055 wire and heavier constitues its own challenges with forming and bending. A very good forming tool can cost well over $150.+. Some guys do well with a vise, nails, and a pliers. Taking a 1/2″ plate of steel and drilling a series of holes for making a “peg” system to form around will give you more consistent results. A major pet peeve is the eye of the wire being off-center of the shaft.
I use size D thread to secure my bucktail AND mylar. The rubber castration rings work ok for a few casts or 1 fish. But they tend to get sloppy and allow tinsel or mylar to slide around making them a POS while fishing. The better the material is secured, the better the longevity.
Don’t get cheap on an extra bead or two between the body and clevis. Those beads work as bearings and allow the blade to spin more freely. The best quality spinners are the ones where the blade turns as soon as the line is drawn tight. I hate having to jerk the rod to get the blades to spin. I exert enough energy casting for 6 to 18 hours a day. Adding extra work to make a blade spin just sucks.
Be careful when selling products that you don’t use registered trade names or references. You would be surprised how many manufactures scan forums every day to identify guys that are making a knock-off of their product. Make yours unique – not a copy.
I think someone mentioned this, but shrink wrap the bottom of the shaft, split ring, and onto the hook. Makes for a better casting bucktail that doesn’t glob up in the wind.
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