Dog Training

Alright, this should bring in tons of different viewpoints so…here it goes, I have purchased a Labrador puppy (Daisy) which is now twelve weeks old and has received minimal training (sit, come, stay). I have limited dog training experience that dates back thirteen years ago when I purchased a Weimaraner and trained her per Richard Wolters book; which, seemed to work well for me as I shot plenty of birds over the dog throughout the years that I owned her. Despite the success with Wolter’s book, I feel that there are probably many other resources at my disposal for training Daisy. Which raise my question; whch system would be best suited for training Daisy to be a great pheasant hunter? I have reasonable expectations and do not intend to take her to field trials rather just have successful hunts with her and my son. Look forward to hearing/seeing the results of this post!

Thank you to all who submit on this.

First off welcome to this site. there is tons of knoledge here and many people here filled with it.
My opinion only but this is what I have sucess at over several dogs.
At the young age nothing is really done but bonding and maybe throw a canvas bumper 2 or 3 times in the hallway. I never train sit or heal untill after the first year of hunting then we can bring in the obideance training. if you arent going to do field trial then overs and backs really arnt needed. I beleive there is no sense in putting a dog through this process if you arnt going to use it or keep it up as its stressfull on them.
So At the age of 5 months minumum age with a good strong dog I start with bumpers (as long as there is a strong will to retrieve) and a cap gun. After a few times we can graduate to a blank gun. After a strong retrieve and not scared of the noise w e can use a dead bird with the blank gun then a live bird with the blank gun. as long as the dog is doing well we can graduate to a bird with wings cut and flush with the cap gun. All along working on your zig zaging in the field.
If we dont have any troubles we graduate to a 3 live birds set one on right then left then right (20 yds appart) helps teach courtering. Use a 20gauge and should be able to shoot as long as the dog chases the bird after it flushes.
After that its birds, birds, and birds. Hunt one season then start your obideance training.
In a nutshell this is how I have been training. Theres a little more to it and I make it sound as if this only takes 15 min., Im sure there are others here with way more writing skills than mine but thats my 2 cents

Welcome to IDO. Great first post, and one that should yield you many knowledgeable responses. Good luck with the Pup

I am of the belief that most dogs have been bred to be gun dogs for millions of years, we simply need to modify their drive to do what we want them to do. I feel that the most important thing we can ever teach a dog is their basic obedience.

My dogs get 10-15 minutes a day of sit, stay (if you teach it, but to a lot of lab guys sit and stay are the same thing), come, heel. I start teaching this as soon as I can, and would not be hesitant to start right away. When the dog is young the training is very light with no real discipline, just fun and positive reinforcement. Once you feel she knows the commands, then start to reinforce them EVERY time they are given.

I think the Wolters books are decent. They give some good basic knowledge. I read them all and take bits and pieces to what he says and incorporate it into my training. I think he gives a great view on reinforcement and I like his view on remembering what you are reinforcing. IE when you give a come command, and the dog does not come. then when if does come you give negative feedback you just reinforced that when it comes he gets treated poorly.

There is some great reading out there about “clicker” training that a google search will get you. I have not done it, but there are a ton of guys using it effectively.

I would recommend getting your dog into obedience school if for no other reason it is an excuse to train your dog and you can pick up tips on certain things from someone else.

Good luck.

I agree with Farmboy. Start on the obidience right away!! If you don’t do it now, your dog will be much harder to control in the field. Unless you yourself have been properly trained with an E-collar, do NOT use it! If you have given your dog the proper obedience training there is no need for it anyway. When starting to train the retrieve, ALWAYS keep it fun, with lots of positive re-enforcement!!! Good luck with the Pup, there are lots of good memories ahead!

Welcome to IDO!

I also agree start with obedience first but keep it fun! Repetition repetition repetition, keep thing as positive as you can if things are not going the way you want them to and your getting impatient…..STOP.

I also would leave the e collar out of the picture for now. I don’t think they are a bad tool when it comes to trailing I use them. My dog goes nuts when she sees her e collar cause she knows birds are in the near future.

For the time being I would just spend as much time with your pup but remember she is still a pup. Keep it fun and positive throw some treats in the mix, maybe some tennis ball play time, and I think things will fall into place for ya.

Get the dog on dead birds asap.Smaller birds if possible,or wings. Socilization is very important at this young age. Bring the dog every where you can. Try to get her around as many new people as you can. Take your time.

Welcome to IDO Greatdogs!

Dokken’s book is good and written well so you can understand it. I don’t have a duck dog so I skipped the waterfowl portion. It gives you a week by week set of training sessions. I do disagree with a previous post. An e-collar is a very useful tool and you should train your dog with an e-collar when the training reaches that point. Dokken’s book details the e-collar training very well and when to start that session. Dokken’s book also details why e-collars are useful.

This is all any lab guy will ever need.

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