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Another thing to consider is that many pointing type dogs require force fetching to get them to retrieve. Not all of them mind you, but quite a few. This is not an easy process and requires an experienced trainer to train you to do it correctly. Pointers just do not seem, in my opinion, to enjoy a dead bird in their mouth.
Labs, Brits, Chessies, Visla, Pointer, Goldens, it doesn’t matter what breed they all need FF to be a true gundog. That Lab that hardmouths, runs around for three minutes with the bird and then drops it at your feet without command needs force fetch. Just the same is the Pointer who drops a bird ten feet away so it can go back to hunting. They all need it. Sorry but..IMO..I’d rather have to go pick the bird up myself than have all the meat tenderized and marinated by dog drool. Never had a problem with any of my Pointers wanting to pick up a bird and I think you will find thats more of the standard now. Most breeders have bred that trait back into the foot hunter breedings of todays pointers. Now thats not saying the “Open FT” bred dogs are going to pick up anything, but with a little reseach it is very easy to find a breeding that will drop retrieving pups.
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Labs were bred to find ’em alive and bring ’em back dead. However the desire to hunt a bird such as a grouse which requires the tight flushing ability of a pointer puts you in an interesting predicament. One thing to try if you do settle on a Lab is to teach the dog his “range”. Doing this is simple if the dog knows his name and/or has been tought to sit on a whistle. A simple exercise is to take the dog afield and let him work naturally in front of you, keeping a close eye on how far you allow the dog to go. When the dog reaches the maximum working range call his name or blow the whistle, this will cause the dog to stop and look at you, when he does, walk up to him and then release him to work again. What you are doing is conditioning the dog to stay within a certain distance of you in the field. He will eventually stay within the acceptable distance because over a few training sessions you have denied him any cover out beyond where you want him to go. The dog will pick this up, and you are using his instincts against him and using no serious correction to do it. You are his alpha and he simply cannot disobey and move further than you have allowed him to.
“settle on a Lab” 
If grouse is the business at hand you can’t beat the Setters, if you are looking for an all around upland dog I’d say a Pointer, and if you duckhunt more than a few weekends a year GSP might fit the bill. Of course if you want a dog that does just OK at all these you could “settle on a Lab.”
CW
I fish quite a bit but want my own dog so I don’t have to rely on friends to go hunting. I want the dog for grouse and pheasants. Probably won’t do any ducks, or rarely. I would prefer a dog that points and will retrieve but not sold on anything. Should I look at a new puppy or an older dog that has already had some training? What breed should I look at? I have young kids and a boxer at home already. I know virtually nothing about training a bird dog. Any opinions would be helpful.
No matter what you get, you can rest assure, it will be a friend for life 
I guess Labs do that too. 
although it doesnt take much 
