whoa Training

  • pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #203869

    What is the best way to teach whoa and to get them to steady to shot?

    birddog
    Mn.
    Posts: 1957
    #29523

    Check cord and lots of repetition.

    BIRDDOG

    birddog
    Mn.
    Posts: 1957
    #540823

    Check cord and lots of repetition.

    BIRDDOG

    pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #29529

    do I do it on live brids or just whoa with out brids. This is my frist pointer. So forgive me if I sound like a dum That is what is great about this site all the help and info one gets( yes a little ribbing too.)

    pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #540837

    do I do it on live brids or just whoa with out brids. This is my frist pointer. So forgive me if I sound like a dum That is what is great about this site all the help and info one gets( yes a little ribbing too.)

    fishinallday
    Montrose Mn
    Posts: 2101
    #29534

    Quote:


    So forgive me if I sound like a dum That is what is great about this site all the help and info one gets( yes a little ribbing too.)


    Not at all, we all need to start somwhere.

    Plus we keep slider around for the comments. He helps make the rest of us look good.

    fishinallday
    Montrose Mn
    Posts: 2101
    #540849

    Quote:


    So forgive me if I sound like a dum That is what is great about this site all the help and info one gets( yes a little ribbing too.)


    Not at all, we all need to start somwhere.

    Plus we keep slider around for the comments. He helps make the rest of us look good.

    birddog
    Mn.
    Posts: 1957
    #29536

    Use the check cord any time and often. Got an extra 5 minutes, grab the check cord and work with the dog. Keep your sessions short and to the point. Repetition, repeat, repeat…The check cord is a very important part of training, it can be used from whoa to heel to sit.

    You can achieve the same results with a ecollar, but it takes some learning on the owners part as well as some work with a combination ecollar/check cord.

    Don’t rush it and keep a cool head. Exact repetition is the most important part of training as commands are learned behaviors. Good luck.

    BIRDDOG

    birddog
    Mn.
    Posts: 1957
    #540859

    Use the check cord any time and often. Got an extra 5 minutes, grab the check cord and work with the dog. Keep your sessions short and to the point. Repetition, repeat, repeat…The check cord is a very important part of training, it can be used from whoa to heel to sit.

    You can achieve the same results with a ecollar, but it takes some learning on the owners part as well as some work with a combination ecollar/check cord.

    Don’t rush it and keep a cool head. Exact repetition is the most important part of training as commands are learned behaviors. Good luck.

    BIRDDOG

    czechsm
    Western Wisconsin
    Posts: 89
    #29537

    We start whoa training in the yard with no birds. After the dog learns the whoa command we then add distractions like thrown bumpers and such. The dog will have to remain at whoa until they are released by a physical tap to the back of their head. If they move we just move them back to where they were. The check cord is a good way to go. The e-collar may be misinterpreted and create issues later on. Bring the gun shot in as the dog progresses. Repetitions are important and we even do a lot of whoa training just going through doors and kennel gates. Do not use birds until the dog is totally successful with the whoa and when you do start with birds do it in the yard and preferably with pigeons. This way if there is a set back you will be on a non-game bird and it can’t be related to anything in the field.

    Another method we have used is the barrel method. It is best explained in the video “Training Setters & Continental Breeds” by Sherry Ray Ebert. Cabela’s sells the video.

    Good luck

    czechsm
    Western Wisconsin
    Posts: 89
    #540869

    We start whoa training in the yard with no birds. After the dog learns the whoa command we then add distractions like thrown bumpers and such. The dog will have to remain at whoa until they are released by a physical tap to the back of their head. If they move we just move them back to where they were. The check cord is a good way to go. The e-collar may be misinterpreted and create issues later on. Bring the gun shot in as the dog progresses. Repetitions are important and we even do a lot of whoa training just going through doors and kennel gates. Do not use birds until the dog is totally successful with the whoa and when you do start with birds do it in the yard and preferably with pigeons. This way if there is a set back you will be on a non-game bird and it can’t be related to anything in the field.

    Another method we have used is the barrel method. It is best explained in the video “Training Setters & Continental Breeds” by Sherry Ray Ebert. Cabela’s sells the video.

    Good luck

    Renedy
    Hampton, MN
    Posts: 165
    #29540

    Whoa is a command that is best taught away from birds, just like heel, come, or No. You don’t want to make a correction over birds if you don’t have to. Introducing birds into the mix before the whoa command is really understood is going to guarantee that you will need to correct over birds. (That is the fastest way to create a dog that blinks). Use other distractions like Frisbee’s cats and little kids first.

    In my opinion if you are want to train whoa the most fool proof method is the whoa post / collar to the flank approach. A lot of people use the Hickox whoa board method which works great, and some people like to “snap the knot” which also will work.

    Issue with the board is you have to lug the board around, and the challenge with the knot is you have to be really really good snapping that rope in the right way or you will make the dog turn it’s head, which leads to stepping away from the whoa command.

    I did see the Buddy stick used last summer by a guy who swore that it was easier than the whoa post, and it looked like it was working, but the issue I saw with that method was there really was no way to make a correction at distance when the “bomb proof” dog decides to test you. And test you they ALL will, the key is to be able to correct when and where you need it.

    In regard to the whoa post, the whole process is kinda lengthy to type out here, but the basics are you use a check cord attached to a post, tie a half hitch around the dogs flank and attach the other end to the collar. When the dog goes to move, you pull the rope tight, and create a pinch around the flank. This pinch becomes a point of contact that queues the dog to stop in it tracks.

    Eventually you put you’re e-collar around the flank and you have an endless length whoa post rope you can use to put the breaks on the dog any time you want. It is at this point when you are going to reintroduce birds to the whoa process. Delmar Smith somewhat explains this in his book, which is worth checking out.

    With any whoa method there has to be an understanding and realistic expectation as to what you are going to try to accomplish. That expectation and plan to get to those results is really the key to any whoa method I have seen used. Know what you want to do, go in, get it done, and end on a positive note.

    I see you are in the Metro, if you are interested in going thru the steps shoot me an email and we can meet up at my shooting preserve the next nice weekend and we will walk thru the steps.

    Good Luck!

    Renedy
    Hampton, MN
    Posts: 165
    #541186

    Whoa is a command that is best taught away from birds, just like heel, come, or No. You don’t want to make a correction over birds if you don’t have to. Introducing birds into the mix before the whoa command is really understood is going to guarantee that you will need to correct over birds. (That is the fastest way to create a dog that blinks). Use other distractions like Frisbee’s cats and little kids first.

    In my opinion if you are want to train whoa the most fool proof method is the whoa post / collar to the flank approach. A lot of people use the Hickox whoa board method which works great, and some people like to “snap the knot” which also will work.

    Issue with the board is you have to lug the board around, and the challenge with the knot is you have to be really really good snapping that rope in the right way or you will make the dog turn it’s head, which leads to stepping away from the whoa command.

    I did see the Buddy stick used last summer by a guy who swore that it was easier than the whoa post, and it looked like it was working, but the issue I saw with that method was there really was no way to make a correction at distance when the “bomb proof” dog decides to test you. And test you they ALL will, the key is to be able to correct when and where you need it.

    In regard to the whoa post, the whole process is kinda lengthy to type out here, but the basics are you use a check cord attached to a post, tie a half hitch around the dogs flank and attach the other end to the collar. When the dog goes to move, you pull the rope tight, and create a pinch around the flank. This pinch becomes a point of contact that queues the dog to stop in it tracks.

    Eventually you put you’re e-collar around the flank and you have an endless length whoa post rope you can use to put the breaks on the dog any time you want. It is at this point when you are going to reintroduce birds to the whoa process. Delmar Smith somewhat explains this in his book, which is worth checking out.

    With any whoa method there has to be an understanding and realistic expectation as to what you are going to try to accomplish. That expectation and plan to get to those results is really the key to any whoa method I have seen used. Know what you want to do, go in, get it done, and end on a positive note.

    I see you are in the Metro, if you are interested in going thru the steps shoot me an email and we can meet up at my shooting preserve the next nice weekend and we will walk thru the steps.

    Good Luck!

    sliderfishn
    Blaine, MN
    Posts: 5432
    #29544

    That was a great answer.
    And an even better offer to help
    Thank you
    Ron

    sliderfishn
    Blaine, MN
    Posts: 5432
    #541247

    That was a great answer.
    And an even better offer to help
    Thank you
    Ron

    czechsm
    Western Wisconsin
    Posts: 89
    #29547

    Another avenue for getting training help and ideas with the pointing breed is to get involved with your local NAVHDA chapter. http://www.navhda.org It is a non-profit org. that promotes the training and testing of our versatile / pointing dogs. We have certainly benefited by being around like minded people that want quality hunting dogs. Most training nights also have training birds, ducks, bird launchers and people willing to help you no matter what stage of training you are at.

    czechsm
    Western Wisconsin
    Posts: 89
    #541290

    Another avenue for getting training help and ideas with the pointing breed is to get involved with your local NAVHDA chapter. http://www.navhda.org It is a non-profit org. that promotes the training and testing of our versatile / pointing dogs. We have certainly benefited by being around like minded people that want quality hunting dogs. Most training nights also have training birds, ducks, bird launchers and people willing to help you no matter what stage of training you are at.

    Steve Plantz
    SE MN
    Posts: 12240
    #29556

    NAVHDA is a great organization, I hooked up with NAVHDA when I got my shorthair also my first hunting dog. I would also recommend the book Gun Dog by Richard Walters

    Steve Plantz
    SE MN
    Posts: 12240
    #541489

    NAVHDA is a great organization, I hooked up with NAVHDA when I got my shorthair also my first hunting dog. I would also recommend the book Gun Dog by Richard Walters

    pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #29558

    Well this weekend while on my walks with the dog I told him to whoa. He would stop and stand there. I would make him stand there for about 30 to 40 sec. at a time. I had him on a check cord and could walk around him. If we where near a bush or trees he would not move. If we where on the street he had a little more issues. I would have to kept telling him to whoa. He would stop and stand there if he was 10 feet or 25 feet on the check cord.

    pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #541592

    Well this weekend while on my walks with the dog I told him to whoa. He would stop and stand there. I would make him stand there for about 30 to 40 sec. at a time. I had him on a check cord and could walk around him. If we where near a bush or trees he would not move. If we where on the street he had a little more issues. I would have to kept telling him to whoa. He would stop and stand there if he was 10 feet or 25 feet on the check cord.

    Don Hanson
    Posts: 2073
    #29560

    With the pointers do you drop the vocal command and switch to whistle?

    Don Hanson
    Posts: 2073
    #541624

    With the pointers do you drop the vocal command and switch to whistle?

    pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #29562

    I have him trained to come with the whistle. That is all I want him to do with the whistle. I use vocal for every thing else and also to come. But that is just me.

    pahaarstad
    metro
    Posts: 712
    #541632

    I have him trained to come with the whistle. That is all I want him to do with the whistle. I use vocal for every thing else and also to come. But that is just me.

    yellowdog
    Alma Wi
    Posts: 1303
    #29569

    For you retriever guys do you think whoa is necessary? I just train Sit..plant your butt till I say otherwise and leave it at that.

    yellowdog
    Alma Wi
    Posts: 1303
    #542305

    For you retriever guys do you think whoa is necessary? I just train Sit..plant your butt till I say otherwise and leave it at that.

    Don Hanson
    Posts: 2073
    #29571

    With retrievers,I like using the whoa command when the dog is nearing the out of range limit. I also use it to stop him on running birds or to get into a better shooting positon before he flushes. Under those situations, I want the dog to stop what he is doing and wait for the next command. I don’t need him sitting and looking back at me, which I use for casting.

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