Remote collar training

OK, you decided to add remote collar to your training. I have been asked alot of questions about the use of remote collars. I will try to get you started off on the right track.
To get started, I go with behavior training first. Don’t look for the collar to be a quick fix or start using it in the field without getting the dog used to it in a training eviorment. I view the remote collar as an extention of the leash. That being said, we must first have the dog traind with the basics while on leash. I want the dog performing come, sit, heel, and place before I add the remote. You can find many resources (books, videos) on dog behavior, to get you started.
Once the dog is responding well to your on leash commands, introduce the remote collar. read the owners manual to insure proper fitting. Remember to use the lowest setting of stimulation when training with the remote. Again, think of the remote as just a extention of the leash. Stay calm when using the remote and never use it as punishment.
Hope this helps if you are deciding to add a remote collar to you training.

I just pick one up for my shorthair pointer this week. I hope to train with it this week end. What is the best way to get started with it. I have never used one before. He knows the basic sit, heel, come and stay very well on the leash.

I just pick one up for my shorthair pointer this week. I hope to train with it this week end. What is the best way to get started with it. I have never used one before. He knows the basic sit, heel, come and stay very well on the leash.

Fit the remote collar properly. what works for me is to have the collar so I can slip a finger between it and the dog. With the dog on a leash, just walk around and let the dog get distracted. This only has to be 6 or so feet away from you. When he is distracted, hold the stimulation button down for a couple of seconds. Do this without saying anything. You should be able to see a reaction from the dog if he feels it. Usually the ears will twitch a bit. If you don’t see any reaction, try again at the same setting. Do this about 4 times. If you don’t get a reaction, take the setting up to the next level. Keep repeating this process until you get a response from the dog. Again look for the ears to twitch a little or the head to cock to one side. When you get a response, that is the setting you want to use. The dog should not panic or yelp. If it does the stimulation is to high.
For the first training session with the remote, I start with the come command. I use a check cord about 30ft long. When the dog is out about 30ft I will be behind it. When the dog is looking away from you, press the stimulation button. While holding the button down give the come command. As soon as he is coming towards you, release the button and lay on the praise. As he is coming towards you, back up. When he reaches you lay on the praise and give a treat (if you use that method). Do this exercise for 3 to 5 minutes. The dog may start looking back at you when you are behind it. That is what you want! If he looks back give the come command without stimulation, repeat the praise and backing away from him.
This should get you started, I check in tommorow with another training session.

Fit the remote collar properly. what works for me is to have the collar so I can slip a finger between it and the dog. With the dog on a leash, just walk around and let the dog get distracted. This only has to be 6 or so feet away from you. When he is distracted, hold the stimulation button down for a couple of seconds. Do this without saying anything. You should be able to see a reaction from the dog if he feels it. Usually the ears will twitch a bit. If you don’t see any reaction, try again at the same setting. Do this about 4 times. If you don’t get a reaction, take the setting up to the next level. Keep repeating this process until you get a response from the dog. Again look for the ears to twitch a little or the head to cock to one side. When you get a response, that is the setting you want to use. The dog should not panic or yelp. If it does the stimulation is to high.
For the first training session with the remote, I start with the come command. I use a check cord about 30ft long. When the dog is out about 30ft I will be behind it. When the dog is looking away from you, press the stimulation button. While holding the button down give the come command. As soon as he is coming towards you, release the button and lay on the praise. As he is coming towards you, back up. When he reaches you lay on the praise and give a treat (if you use that method). Do this exercise for 3 to 5 minutes. The dog may start looking back at you when you are behind it. That is what you want! If he looks back give the come command without stimulation, repeat the praise and backing away from him.
This should get you started, I check in tommorow with another training session.

One thing I forgot to mention is, I do the remote collar training after the dog is whistle trained. But that is an personal choice.

One thing I forgot to mention is, I do the remote collar training after the dog is whistle trained. But that is an personal choice.

Solid stuff, Don. It is ironic that I had just started reading this thread when I got a call from my oldest telling us that they are thinking about getting a Golden pup this spring. She grew up going to horseback pointer trials but they really want a family type dog as opposed to one that has the mental make-up of what she grew up with.
If I mav be so bold as to offer input, I have found it important to teach the dog that they also have to obey going away from the handler also. Thus I used the collar to teach “kennel” early. Keeps the dog from coming to heel and staying there.

Solid stuff, Don. It is ironic that I had just started reading this thread when I got a call from my oldest telling us that they are thinking about getting a Golden pup this spring. She grew up going to horseback pointer trials but they really want a family type dog as opposed to one that has the mental make-up of what she grew up with.
If I mav be so bold as to offer input, I have found it important to teach the dog that they also have to obey going away from the handler also. Thus I used the collar to teach “kennel” early. Keeps the dog from coming to heel and staying there.

Good point about using it to “kennel up”, that one slipped my mind. yep, use it everyday to get the hound in the truck. Thanks for pointing it out to us.

Good point about using it to “kennel up”, that one slipped my mind. yep, use it everyday to get the hound in the truck. Thanks for pointing it out to us.

Hey, no problem. I miss the dog game but it just doesn’t work for me now. I’ll get back in it in a few years & hopefully be able to have the same type & quality of dogs as I had then. The use of the collar really is the greatest step forward on dog training the last 25 years. WhenI started out it was “light them up” and there were problems with some trainers and their dogs. I was working with one guy who just mashed the button on a old T-T 70 WITH OUT KNOWING WHERE THE DOG WAS OR WHAT THE DOG WAS DOING. So if that dog was jambed up on point some where what are the chance that the dog would make that “mistake” again? He never thought or was prepared before he pushed. Not good.
The low level avoidance training you are outlining is the way to go. Again, good stuff.

Hey, no problem. I miss the dog game but it just doesn’t work for me now. I’ll get back in it in a few years & hopefully be able to have the same type & quality of dogs as I had then. The use of the collar really is the greatest step forward on dog training the last 25 years. WhenI started out it was “light them up” and there were problems with some trainers and their dogs. I was working with one guy who just mashed the button on a old T-T 70 WITH OUT KNOWING WHERE THE DOG WAS OR WHAT THE DOG WAS DOING. So if that dog was jambed up on point some where what are the chance that the dog would make that “mistake” again? He never thought or was prepared before he pushed. Not good.
The low level avoidance training you are outlining is the way to go. Again, good stuff.

I had to work late last night so I did not get a chance to try it. I will be out trainning this evening when I get home. I also hope to find a brid or two this weekend fro the frist time.

I had to work late last night so I did not get a chance to try it. I will be out trainning this evening when I get home. I also hope to find a brid or two this weekend fro the frist time.

Let us know how it goes.

Let us know how it goes.

Great information!

Great information!

Thanks for all the info Don

Thanks for all the info Don

Well the new E-collar when well this weekend. On Friday I set the collar on the lowest setting and work may way up until I got a small reaction. I then took him on a walk and told him to come as I pushed the buttom. I only had to do it about 3 time before he new what it was all about. He would kept looking back to see where I was when he got to the end of the check cord. I also took him to a game farm on Saturday for a few brids for the frist time. On the frist pass threw the field as he got downwind of them he could not turn around fast enough and lock up on them. All in all we had a good trainning sessions this weekend.

Well the new E-collar when well this weekend. On Friday I set the collar on the lowest setting and work may way up until I got a small reaction. I then took him on a walk and told him to come as I pushed the buttom. I only had to do it about 3 time before he new what it was all about. He would kept looking back to see where I was when he got to the end of the check cord. I also took him to a game farm on Saturday for a few brids for the frist time. On the frist pass threw the field as he got downwind of them he could not turn around fast enough and lock up on them. All in all we had a good trainning sessions this weekend.

Sounds like you two had a good time! Keep working with the birds. It sures is easier to train in the heat wave we are having!
Speking of birds, I am looking for pigeons. Give me a holler if ya got a connection.

Sounds like you two had a good time! Keep working with the birds. It sures is easier to train in the heat wave we are having!
Speking of birds, I am looking for pigeons. Give me a holler if ya got a connection.

Good info. Don. I didn’t read all the replies, but I have a few observations to add. First off, I am no expert, but I do have the opportunity to work with many labs and retrievers each year. I try to have the collar on my dog as much as possible. Never in the kennel, but anytime she is out socializing or training. Many dogs that only have them on for training will get turned off by the collar. Before every training session we take the dogs out for an obedience walk. This is where we introduce the collar with the basic commands. I still do this with my 2 year old and most of the older dogs. These dogs are handled by many different people, and they need to know that I mean business. It also eliminates a lot of the attitude later on. I also like to vary the stimulation levels so the dog does not become conditioned. My dog is probably the “softest” lab I have ever worked with, but she has her bull-headed moments too. I seldom have to use higher than a level 3, but she has her moments where a level 6 is required. If I worked my way up from level 1, then it would take multiple commands before she would listen on those bull-headed days. Instead, I like to vary the intensity so the dog knows I mean business every time I say the command. I usually use between a 1 and 3 on my dog, but every dog has it’s point. Always go slow.

Good info. Don. I didn’t read all the replies, but I have a few observations to add. First off, I am no expert, but I do have the opportunity to work with many labs and retrievers each year. I try to have the collar on my dog as much as possible. Never in the kennel, but anytime she is out socializing or training. Many dogs that only have them on for training will get turned off by the collar. Before every training session we take the dogs out for an obedience walk. This is where we introduce the collar with the basic commands. I still do this with my 2 year old and most of the older dogs. These dogs are handled by many different people, and they need to know that I mean business. It also eliminates a lot of the attitude later on. I also like to vary the stimulation levels so the dog does not become conditioned. My dog is probably the “softest” lab I have ever worked with, but she has her bull-headed moments too. I seldom have to use higher than a level 3, but she has her moments where a level 6 is required. If I worked my way up from level 1, then it would take multiple commands before she would listen on those bull-headed days. Instead, I like to vary the intensity so the dog knows I mean business every time I say the command. I usually use between a 1 and 3 on my dog, but every dog has it’s point. Always go slow.

Some great points Dan, thanks for sharing them. I use the remote collar for most outings including our daily walks. When I pick up the collar my dog will “place” because he knows it means he is going for an outing.

Some great points Dan, thanks for sharing them. I use the remote collar for most outings including our daily walks. When I pick up the collar my dog will “place” because he knows it means he is going for an outing.

Learning the stay command on leash before receiving remote collar training.