Retriever training

So the training with dummies could be going better. Here are a couple of tips that may help. #1. Try a change of location. My lab very seldom wants to fetch in the backyard. This is his area for bone chewing and patrolling. When I take him out in the field he is balls to the walls on retrieves. # 2 Only use dummies for training purposes, do not let the pup play with them otherwise.
I am not real concerned about a dog that does not retrieve dummies 100% anyway. At this point in time, he is not going to field trials. His job is to fetch birds and if he remains consistant on the job that’s all I ask.

I have a 1 /2 year old short hair that I got last week. He sits and stays very well. He seems to not want to retrieve very well. In the house he loves to play with his toys and will bring them back to me if I throw them about 3/4 of the time. When we have gone out side with a bumper(not his toys) he will barly pick it up. Then he comes 1/2 way back and drops it and walks away. I have ony done this 2 times in the yard. Any help would be great. I wonder if it is in part to being in a new place and a new owner. I have use the bumper in the house a few time too. He has done better in the house then in the yard. I just would like for him to love to play the fetch game.

I have a 1 /2 year old short hair that I got last week. He sits and stays very well. He seems to not want to retrieve very well. In the house he loves to play with his toys and will bring them back to me if I throw them about 3/4 of the time. When we have gone out side with a bumper(not his toys) he will barly pick it up. Then he comes 1/2 way back and drops it and walks away. I have ony done this 2 times in the yard. Any help would be great. I wonder if it is in part to being in a new place and a new owner. I have use the bumper in the house a few time too. He has done better in the house then in the yard. I just would like for him to love to play the fetch game.

No need to be concerned, let him be a pup. You are on the right track of only throwing a couple of bumpers a day. When you throw the bumper and the pup pick it up, start calling him,clapping you hands and back away. He will want to catch up to you and should bring the bumper with him.Also what you can do to help when outside is to make an lane for the dog to stay in. Use the side of a building for one side and hex netting for the other. We want to create a lane so when the pup fetches the bumper his only route is straight back to you. I have had good success with this method on pups that age. Another thing when getting him to fetch, get down on his level. Kneel or even sit on the ground, this is less intimidating for the pup.

Keep us posted on your results and have fun training your pup.

No need to be concerned, let him be a pup. You are on the right track of only throwing a couple of bumpers a day. When you throw the bumper and the pup pick it up, start calling him,clapping you hands and back away. He will want to catch up to you and should bring the bumper with him.Also what you can do to help when outside is to make an lane for the dog to stay in. Use the side of a building for one side and hex netting for the other. We want to create a lane so when the pup fetches the bumper his only route is straight back to you. I have had good success with this method on pups that age. Another thing when getting him to fetch, get down on his level. Kneel or even sit on the ground, this is less intimidating for the pup.

Keep us posted on your results and have fun training your pup.

Thanks I will try that.

Thanks I will try that.

Something else to try. Tie the dummy on a rope- I like using about a 30fter. Get the pup excited to play and then toss the dummie, it does not have to be very far at first. When the pup picks it up and starts back, you can lead him with the cord if need be. Also if he drops it you can pull the cord to get the dummy moving. more than likely he will pick it up again.
I would also introduce it frozen birds or wing at this time.

Something else to try. Tie the dummy on a rope- I like using about a 30fter. Get the pup excited to play and then toss the dummie, it does not have to be very far at first. When the pup picks it up and starts back, you can lead him with the cord if need be. Also if he drops it you can pull the cord to get the dummy moving. more than likely he will pick it up again.
I would also introduce it frozen birds or wing at this time.

If I can get my hand on a bird is there any thing I should not do with it. I tried to make him hold the bumper in his mouth last night until I told him to drop it. It went ok. only did it 3 time and for a few seconds. He was a little hyper when I got home last night so It did not want to push it and end on a bad note. It was way to cold to be out side last night. I hope that the temp will warm up so we both will want to stay out longer.

If I can get my hand on a bird is there any thing I should not do with it. I tried to make him hold the bumper in his mouth last night until I told him to drop it. It went ok. only did it 3 time and for a few seconds. He was a little hyper when I got home last night so It did not want to push it and end on a bad note. It was way to cold to be out side last night. I hope that the temp will warm up so we both will want to stay out longer.

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No need to be concerned, let him be a pup. You are on the right track of only throwing a couple of bumpers a day. When you throw the bumper and the pup pick it up, start calling him,clapping you hands and back away. He will want to catch up to you and should bring the bumper with him.Also what you can do to help when outside is to make an lane for the dog to stay in. Use the side of a building for one side and hex netting for the other. We want to create a lane so when the pup fetches the bumper his only route is straight back to you. I have had good success with this method on pups that age. Another thing when getting him to fetch, get down on his level. Kneel or even sit on the ground, this is less intimidating for the pup.
Keep us posted on your results and have fun training your pup.

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Very good advice Don.

If the pup seems to bore at 5 retrieves then only toss the dummy once or twice and quit on the positive side. It must be fun for the pup. Many pointing dog owners do very few retrieves with a young dog as the main emphasis is to get the pointing dog to “point” and not to chase. This is a much different approach than some retriever training. When the pup is more mature you can always force fetch them and make them point if they are weak in this area. I would just have fun and work on the pointing qualities.

Quote:

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No need to be concerned, let him be a pup. You are on the right track of only throwing a couple of bumpers a day. When you throw the bumper and the pup pick it up, start calling him,clapping you hands and back away. He will want to catch up to you and should bring the bumper with him.Also what you can do to help when outside is to make an lane for the dog to stay in. Use the side of a building for one side and hex netting for the other. We want to create a lane so when the pup fetches the bumper his only route is straight back to you. I have had good success with this method on pups that age. Another thing when getting him to fetch, get down on his level. Kneel or even sit on the ground, this is less intimidating for the pup.
Keep us posted on your results and have fun training your pup.

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Very good advice Don.

If the pup seems to bore at 5 retrieves then only toss the dummy once or twice and quit on the positive side. It must be fun for the pup. Many pointing dog owners do very few retrieves with a young dog as the main emphasis is to get the pointing dog to “point” and not to chase. This is a much different approach than some retriever training. When the pup is more mature you can always force fetch them and make them point if they are weak in this area. I would just have fun and work on the pointing qualities.

What is the best frish step to get the dog to point before the game farms? what is force fetching?

What is the best frish step to get the dog to point before the game farms? what is force fetching?

Here is a link that perhaps will explain the forced retrieve better than I certainly can.
http://www.versatiledogs.com/ask/ret8.html

The best way is to get your pup to point is to expose it to a lot of wild birds where it is almost impossible for the pup to catch a bird. Of course that is easier said than done and it is not bird season. So I use remote bird launchers and pigeons. I set the launchers up where I feel that there is a good cross wind. I then run the dogs in the field and when I see the first reaction from the dog to the scent cone I expect the pup to point. If it doesn’t I launch the pigeon. I don’t say anything to the pup and continue on. The point is a relationship between the dog and the bird. Sooner or later the genetics of the pup will kick in and it will realize if it doesn’t move neither will the bird. It is extremely important that the dog does not catch any of the birds. That is why the remote launcher and pigeons are so handy. It allows control of the flush and the pigeons will fly well and won’t be caught by the pup. Also never shoot a bird that hasn’t been pointed.

Pen raised quail and other game farmed birds can be the demise of a pointing dog early in its early stages of training. The birds have a tendency to allow the pup/dog to walk in on them as they don’t readily fly like wild birds. This can create issues that can set your dog back on its pointing.

With your shorthair I would think that perhaps you might be interested in getting involved with other versatile hunters and training with them. One such avenue that may work for you is the North American Versatile Hunting Association (NAVHDA). They have training nights where you can train with like minded people who strive for a great hunting companion in their dog. Here is a link that would help you find a NAVHDA Chapter near you. http://www.navhda.org

If you need any help you are certainly welcomed to stop by for an afternoon.

Here is a link that perhaps will explain the forced retrieve better than I certainly can.
http://www.versatiledogs.com/ask/ret8.html

The best way is to get your pup to point is to expose it to a lot of wild birds where it is almost impossible for the pup to catch a bird. Of course that is easier said than done and it is not bird season. So I use remote bird launchers and pigeons. I set the launchers up where I feel that there is a good cross wind. I then run the dogs in the field and when I see the first reaction from the dog to the scent cone I expect the pup to point. If it doesn’t I launch the pigeon. I don’t say anything to the pup and continue on. The point is a relationship between the dog and the bird. Sooner or later the genetics of the pup will kick in and it will realize if it doesn’t move neither will the bird. It is extremely important that the dog does not catch any of the birds. That is why the remote launcher and pigeons are so handy. It allows control of the flush and the pigeons will fly well and won’t be caught by the pup. Also never shoot a bird that hasn’t been pointed.

Pen raised quail and other game farmed birds can be the demise of a pointing dog early in its early stages of training. The birds have a tendency to allow the pup/dog to walk in on them as they don’t readily fly like wild birds. This can create issues that can set your dog back on its pointing.

With your shorthair I would think that perhaps you might be interested in getting involved with other versatile hunters and training with them. One such avenue that may work for you is the North American Versatile Hunting Association (NAVHDA). They have training nights where you can train with like minded people who strive for a great hunting companion in their dog. Here is a link that would help you find a NAVHDA Chapter near you. http://www.navhda.org

If you need any help you are certainly welcomed to stop by for an afternoon.

A good start would be to tie a wing on an old fishing pole. I have use this method with retriever pups. it is also popular with the pointer trainers. I will let the pointer guys give you more detail on how they use it. I would not be concerned with forced fetching yet.

A good start would be to tie a wing on an old fishing pole. I have use this method with retriever pups. it is also popular with the pointer trainers. I will let the pointer guys give you more detail on how they use it. I would not be concerned with forced fetching yet.

pm sent.

pm sent.

CzechSM sound like a good thing to get in to. The more help I can get the better for me and the dog. It would be great to stop by sometime to get some help and to see what it is all about.

CzechSM sound like a good thing to get in to. The more help I can get the better for me and the dog. It would be great to stop by sometime to get some help and to see what it is all about.

The wing on a fish pole might be OK if it is done once to see just how much point that a pup may have. The way it works is that you take a wing and tie it on a short string that is connected to a pole. A fish pole is a good light tool. You flip the wing in the air and drop it on the ground near the pup. When the pup goes for the wing you then flip it so the pup can not get it. A strong pointing pup will very shortly learn that if it (the pup) doesn’t move (points the wing) then the wing doesn’t move either. If the pup is a slightly weaker pointer at this stage in its life it will continue to chase and try to catch the wing. Pups are all different and in many cases the wing may not be a good indicator on your pup’s abilities. You do not want to do this very many times as the pup will soon want to sight point and what you really want is a dog that points scent.

The wing on a fish pole might be OK if it is done once to see just how much point that a pup may have. The way it works is that you take a wing and tie it on a short string that is connected to a pole. A fish pole is a good light tool. You flip the wing in the air and drop it on the ground near the pup. When the pup goes for the wing you then flip it so the pup can not get it. A strong pointing pup will very shortly learn that if it (the pup) doesn’t move (points the wing) then the wing doesn’t move either. If the pup is a slightly weaker pointer at this stage in its life it will continue to chase and try to catch the wing. Pups are all different and in many cases the wing may not be a good indicator on your pup’s abilities. You do not want to do this very many times as the pup will soon want to sight point and what you really want is a dog that points scent.