On retrieves my lab will drop the bird at my feet or do a fly by and drop it about ten feet behind me. I am going to back up and work the heel position both on and off leash. Any other tips for correcting this?
one question. is your dog force fetched? if it is re-inforce that as your dog shouldnt be dropping the bird at all anywhere. also as you stated maybe re-infroceing the heeling command will help also. not an expert trainer by anymeans but hope this might help.
one question. is your dog force fetched? if it is re-inforce that as your dog shouldnt be dropping the bird at all anywhere. also as you stated maybe re-infroceing the heeling command will help also. not an expert trainer by anymeans but hope this might help.
When my dog would drop the “bird” on the retrive I would kick it {bird} as hard as I could. Then {get that bird} he would bring it back and drop it again. I would then hold the “bird” in his mouth for 30-40 sec. and tell him my bird and take it from him. REALLY PRAISE him when you do this. It will take time but they will start bringing it to your hand. Even when some one else in the party shoots the bird 
Hope this helps. Remember it just takes a little time and consistency 
Good luck
When my dog would drop the “bird” on the retrive I would kick it {bird} as hard as I could. Then {get that bird} he would bring it back and drop it again. I would then hold the “bird” in his mouth for 30-40 sec. and tell him my bird and take it from him. REALLY PRAISE him when you do this. It will take time but they will start bringing it to your hand. Even when some one else in the party shoots the bird Hope this helps. Remember it just takes a little time and consistency Good luck
Another thing I did with my dog, when he was on the table, reinforce the hold command.
Put the bird in his mouth with a fetch command, give the hold command and every time he moves his mouth or chews, smack the dummy and make it move. He will drop it a few times, but will start to hold the dummy firmly, but not bite it, in anticipation that you will hit it. If he drops the dummy, immediately put it back in his mouth after a stern “NO”. They pick it up very quickly that they do not drop a bird.
Take the hold command and bring it outside on the check cord, and make short throws, fetch and then hold commands, bring him to heel, and make him hold for a couple of minutes if necessary. Make sure he knows that you do not drop a bird until you give the command.
I often times reinforce this in the yard, by making him carry a dummy around at heel for a couple minutes at a time. Now when I throw a dummy, he automatically goes to heel and sits with the bird in his mouth and waits for the give command.
Good luck, training is a very rewarding experience, but also has some really frusterating days.
Another thing I did with my dog, when he was on the table, reinforce the hold command.
Put the bird in his mouth with a fetch command, give the hold command and every time he moves his mouth or chews, smack the dummy and make it move. He will drop it a few times, but will start to hold the dummy firmly, but not bite it, in anticipation that you will hit it. If he drops the dummy, immediately put it back in his mouth after a stern “NO”. They pick it up very quickly that they do not drop a bird.
Take the hold command and bring it outside on the check cord, and make short throws, fetch and then hold commands, bring him to heel, and make him hold for a couple of minutes if necessary. Make sure he knows that you do not drop a bird until you give the command.
I often times reinforce this in the yard, by making him carry a dummy around at heel for a couple minutes at a time. Now when I throw a dummy, he automatically goes to heel and sits with the bird in his mouth and waits for the give command.
Good luck, training is a very rewarding experience, but also has some really frusterating days.
You will most likely need to hold off on the verbal commands and go back to the ear pinch or the toe hitch on the table at first to get the dropping of the bird to stop for good. This is all 100% refusal, and you have to get the dog into a spot where his only choice is to comply to the command willingly. That sounded much more harsh than it should have, but you know what I mean…
One thing to consider – after you have totally gotten the retrieve command down 100%. On the table you can start to use you’re E-collar as a stimulus on the ground.
Position the collar so the stim points are on the back of the head. Give the dog the queue for the retrieve command. With the lowest possible setting, hold the stim on until the dog has the dummy in you’re grasp.
This works on very short table or ground retrieves as you’re collar will time out in less than 20 seconds depending on brands, and they have to realize the bringing the dummy back is what turned off the stim. This gives you is an invisible had that follows the dog all the way thru the retrieve.
Again, this in on the lowest setting you’re collar has –be careful here you are correcting on a drill which will be 100% like you’re hunting situation, which is the fastest way to create a situation shy dog.
Keep at it and don’t spare the table time at all – it pays off huge.
GOOD LUCK!
You will most likely need to hold off on the verbal commands and go back to the ear pinch or the toe hitch on the table at first to get the dropping of the bird to stop for good. This is all 100% refusal, and you have to get the dog into a spot where his only choice is to comply to the command willingly. That sounded much more harsh than it should have, but you know what I mean…
One thing to consider – after you have totally gotten the retrieve command down 100%. On the table you can start to use you’re E-collar as a stimulus on the ground.
Position the collar so the stim points are on the back of the head. Give the dog the queue for the retrieve command. With the lowest possible setting, hold the stim on until the dog has the dummy in you’re grasp.
This works on very short table or ground retrieves as you’re collar will time out in less than 20 seconds depending on brands, and they have to realize the bringing the dummy back is what turned off the stim. This gives you is an invisible had that follows the dog all the way thru the retrieve.
Again, this in on the lowest setting you’re collar has –be careful here you are correcting on a drill which will be 100% like you’re hunting situation, which is the fastest way to create a situation shy dog.
Keep at it and don’t spare the table time at all – it pays off huge.
GOOD LUCK!
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