2 stripped drain plugs by the fast oil change place has me doing my own for the last 30 years.
I’ve seen Valvoline not close the air box after checking filter, leave the dipstick laying on top of engine, and not replace drain plug gasket causing massive leaking. I would never bring mine there l, or any “quick” place, anymore.
The chevy dealer here didnt added 8 quarts to my old truck and then the oil light went on. Brought it in under warranty and was put into the oil consumption program. Had to pay for another oil change, then come in weekly to have it checked so they could update. The level never budged and then I realized what had happened and I chewed them out and said I wanted to be compensated for their mistake and they basically just said crap happens. Now I have a GMC and they have fantastic service dept.
You’re telling me the guy a dealer hired to do oil changes all day long is a certified tech? I find that hard to believe, although it’s possible. I will trust myself checking over my vehicle over some 20 year old. Do be quite honest, I trust my opinion more than many “mechanics” I have talked to. I’ll never forget the time I brought my vehicle into the local Chevy dealership to get UV dye added to my AC system. When I pulled in the guy with a ASE Cert badge told me I had a major bearing issue with something in the front of my vehicle and they’ll need to check it out. I said, there’s not issue, I think what you hear is the centrifugal blower. He looked at me like I was speaking French.
Guys that mention they value their time, so what are you doing when you get an oil change? Are you dropping the vehicle off, then going on your merry way? How long does it take, round trip, to drive to the dealer and back? Do you value or time, or just value the time you’re not on your back doing an oil change?
This is exactly where I’m at… more time consuming to take it in than just do it at home. But that’s not a big deal. What got me was in the span of a year we had lug nuts way over torqued, oil drain plug under torqued to the point I could spin it off by hand, the fake dirty air filter schtick, and freaking 0w-20 oil put in a car that called for 5w-30 right on the oil cap. Not to mention using flavor of the month “full synthetic” oil and who knows what oil filter. This was all done on my wife’s simple toyota sedan at 2 different shops. I’m not saying every shop is bad but I wouldn’t exactly call the kid in the quick lane an expert technician.
Since then our vehicles have gotten every oil change and tire rotation in my garage with mobile 1 or now costco oil and OEM filters.
I change the oil in all 4 of my vehicles. Have for 20 years. It’s either I take it to the dealer across the road from work and pay their prices or it takes 2 of us to drop it off at the local mechanic in the town I live. I have caught many issues while changing my oil that I then bring to get fixed or do myself. I also enjoy doing it because it gives me a change to check the vehicle over and I know it’s done right.
I have heard and been apart of too many attempts by service shops trying to “find” work when getting my oil changed in the past. Like saying a mini van with rack and pinion steering needed an idler arm one time then when you go back and have another oil change and ask about it they tell you it’s fine? This was on my parents van and my dad doesn’t know what’s all involved with a steering system so luckily he said he will wait and watch it. Or that the rear diff fluid on a pickup needs to be changed every 10k miles. I have 2 shops now that I trust to do work I can’t but I will never go to a quick lube place.
Edit: my 2 examples are not from a quick lube place but a multi location shop in the st. cloud/sartell area.
You’re telling me the guy a dealer hired to do oil changes all day long is a certified tech? I find that hard to believe, although it’s possible. I will trust myself checking over my vehicle over some 20 year old.
Not all shops are run the same way, however we generally have a certified tech that checks safety issues and verifies if leaks or anything else noted by the lube tech are valid and should be addressed. If your qualified to make those calls then have at it. I just imagine most guys do not have a lift to use at home so would think it would be pretty hard to know if things are actually ok or not. To me the savings is not even close to enough to get me on my back draining oil in my garage. I never suggested a quick lube for those guys bringing stuff there beware of the problems that can bring.
The other thing I find hilarious especially about the quick change places is they will pull your air filters and show you them and tell you whether it needs to replaced. If you have them do it they charge you an installation fee on top of the cost of the filter. I said you have to put my old one back in otherwise why would I have to pay to have a new one put in?
I dislike when they try to sell you new blinker fluid, telling me its low. LOL
The other thing I find hilarious especially about the quick change places is they will pull your air filters and show you them and tell you whether it needs to replaced. If you have them do it they charge you an installation fee on top of the cost of the filter. I said you have to put my old one back in otherwise why would I have to pay to have a new one put in?
You’re telling me the guy a dealer hired to do oil changes all day long is a certified tech? I find that hard to believe, although it’s possible.
You are correct, they are typically the newbs either in tech school or straight out of it. I’ve known a few.
My wife bought her last vehicle from the dealership her uncle was a mechanic at for 25 years. She had all the maintenance done by them and requested all of it done by her uncle. After a few years he got in trouble for doing an oil change on her vehicle when there were lower paid guys there to do it. He was forced to stop, but would do a once over when they were done. Many times he’d find things the “certified” oil changer missed. We haven’t bought a vehicle from them since.
My daily vehicle with over 100k miles I change myself, I also put on 25k to 30k miles a year. The 2023 Suburban is done at dealer until out of warranty, I don’t want them questioning anything if something goes south with the engine.
I buy oil by 5qt. jugs at Fleet Farm (synthetic) when on sale or good rebate. I can usually get Mobil One at good price or lesser brand (Valvoline, Pennzoil) really cheap when you buy at right time (sale and rebate). I think i did valvoline for $16 a jug (last time) and I bought 2
2 stripped drain plugs by the fast oil change place has me doing my own for the last 30 years.
Valvoline did this to me when I was 19. Luckily trucks have oil pressure gauges and well, I pay attention to my gauges. Watched it puke oil out in real time while driving home as operating temp got up there. Shut it down immediately, towed to a shop, they put in a helicoil for $20 (I didn’t even know what that was back then) and told me to change my own oil from now on. And I have.
Also love taking the opportunity to examine suspension components, frame, crossmembers, etc while I’m layiong under the truck. I make it about an hour activity and I believe it’s fully worthwhile.
Also, when you get your oil changed at a shop that regularly reports to Carfax, it goes into the maintenance history. used car buyers really like to see that.
I also like to rotate my tires when I get an oil change. If you’ve ever tried to warranty out a tire without records of tire rotations at proper intervals…
You can actually add your DIY maintenance in carfax for free. The dealership wanted $125 to just change rear diff fluid on mine and my wife’s vehicles which with hondas they are sensitive to that. So was pretty nice to be able to show it was done on time and for a quarter of the cost.
My first truck’s first oil change (free at the dealership), they overfilled it. My third truck I had a coupon for an oil change and had them do that while doing a recall fix. They overfilled it. I called and they said bring it in and they’d fix it. The frickin’ overfilled it again. 
I called and said they should have all the oil guns calibrated. That time I drained some out myself. They must have missed the “run engine and check oil level” part in “How to change oil in a vehicle”.
Wasn’t aware of that, youbetcha. Although as a used car shopper I’d feel more confident looking at service history entered by a shop. What’s to stop a person from cheating on that?
Different strokes for different folks seems to be the story here. I do everything slowly so an oil change that would take some of you guys 20 mins might be pretty different for me.
To add to the quick lube nightmares. Was in a jiffy lube a few years back and this guy in a Subaru came in. He had just had his oil changed the day before and now his car was “running rough.” They apparently had drained his transmission fluid instead of the oil, and then overfilled the oil since that had never been drained.
One time we changed oil at the dealership and everything was perfect. 
Do you have one I can use because mine is paved.
My dad does and he didnt appreciate my point of view the last time I changed the oil in the wheelers.
Obviously everywhere you go dealerships included are all different. As ive said on here before the three ive worked at in my life are all in relatively small towns where workmanship matters cause the same people whos cars you work on you see at the bar and church or the grocery store. Dont really wanna explain to the guy working at the bakery down the street why his grandmas tire fell off or theres oil on her driveway. Think once you get to the bigger places in the cities they could give a rats arse about you me or the next guy.
30k a year for 17 years on work vans. All oil changes have been at valvoline. No issues! Will they try to upsell you, yes. Tell them what you want and pay the $100.
I was astounded the last oil change I had done at valvoline. They are outrageous.
So not wanting to start an argument here, but if you owned an auto repair business what would you think an oil change with full synthetic oil should cost?
So not wanting to start an argument here, but if you owned an auto repair business what would you think an oil change with full synthetic oil should cost?
I happily pay about $100 each synthetic oil and filter change 2-3x a year. Sometimes I work from the shop while it’s getting done, sometimes I drop and go, in either case I’m happy to do so. In fact I take my truck to one local shop and my wife’s to another, they are both great, and I want both of them to stick around long term as I will not go back to a JiffyLube.
I was astounded the last oil change I had done at valvoline. They are outrageous.
Anything specific? I think it just varies shop to shop. The valvoline I visit in St Paul is solid. They will show you on the screen what the factory recommended maintenance is, but they don’t push it on you. They’re quick and courteous and I haven’t had any issues in 20 years there. The jiffy lube near me, I would never trust again. Or the Midas.
I happily pay about $100 each synthetic oil and filter change 2-3x a year. Sometimes I work from the shop while it’s getting done, sometimes I drop and go, in either case I’m happy to do so. In fact I take my truck to one local shop and my wife’s to another, they are both great, and I want both of them to stick around long term as I will not go back to a JiffyLube.
Glad to hear Werm. It cost’s that much just to make a little profit from performing an oil change. At a full service auto repair shop your doing oil changes to build relationships with customers at least you should be. Then when Mr Smith needs brakes or ball joints or something that is profitable he feels comfortable having you do his work. Some discount type shops are in it just for the dollar and could care less about your experience or you for that matter.
So not wanting to start an argument here, but if you owned an auto repair business what would you think an oil change with full synthetic oil should cost?
What does the oil change consist of? Is it a motor oil/filter change and you’re out the door, or are they checking other vitals as well? Are they looking at the factory service manual and verifying all those checkmarks? Or at least checking off standard every 5-7K miles checkpoints? IE checking current/past CELs, battery condition, radiator coolant, power steering system, brake(braking system) fluid and lines, clutch fluid(if manual), filters, headlights/taillights/ect lights, tire condition, suspension components/lubing said components needing lubrication, ect.
Or like I mentioned an oil change, then the heavy surcharge to replace windshield wipers?
Anything specific? I think it just varies shop to shop. The valvoline I visit in St Paul is solid. They will show you on the screen what the factory recommended maintenance is, but they don’t push it on you. They’re quick and courteous and I haven’t had any issues in 20 years there. The jiffy lube near me, I would never trust again. Or the Midas.
Just a simple oil change on an old Envoy I had that takes 6 quarts of oil they wanted to charge me $100 for which is outrageous. It wasnt even synthetic oil. I get my truck changed with a rotation with 8 quarts and its $60, but I do get a discount but still normal price is like 70 something.
It is $105 at Oreily’s for 7 quarts of full synthetic oil and filter. I use the Ultra Pennzoil Ultra Full Synthetic Motor. I never used Pennzoil before this. As a kid I heard nothing but bad stories about it leaving carbon buildup. I have had hemi’s since 2007, and normally ran Mobil 1. I would change the oil at 6k. On every motor once the motor would get to about 3k on a change I would start hearing the lifters click. Drove me nuts. On my 2022 6.4 I started using the recommended Ultra Pennzoil and it doesn’t have any lifter noise at all even at oil change time. I’ll pay up for that oil, if I think it works better then other oil.
What does the oil change consist of? Is it a motor oil/filter change and you’re out the door, or are they checking other vitals as well? Are they looking at the factory service manual and verifying all those checkmarks? Or at least checking off standard every 5-7K miles checkpoints? IE checking current/past CELs, battery condition, radiator coolant, power steering system, brake(braking system) fluid and lines, clutch fluid(if manual), filters, headlights/taillights/ect lights, tire condition, suspension components/lubing said components needing lubrication, ect.
Or like I mentioned an oil change, then the heavy surcharge to replace windshield wipers?
At my shop we are checking most if not all the things listed. There is not much to lube on today’s vehicles. We do mine the history and make legit recommendations. Find a repair shop you can trust and stick with them, there are still good ones out there. We don’t charge to put the wipers on, but do charge for good quality wipers. Maybe your just going to the wrong shops or expect things to be done for little profit. Again I’m not trying to argue with anyone, just everybody thinks we are all out to rip them off or heaven forbid make a justifiable recommendation ie “the dreaded up sell”
At my shop we are checking most if not all the things listed. There is not much to lube on today’s vehicles. We do mine the history and make legit recommendations. Find a repair shop you can trust and stick with them, there are still good ones out there. We don’t charge to put the wipers on, but do charge for good quality wipers. Maybe your just going to the wrong shops or expect things to be done for little profit. Again I’m not trying to argue with anyone, just everybody thinks we are all out to rip them off or heaven forbid make a justifiable recommendation ie “the dreaded up sell”
Not trying to start anything either. I was mostly being facetious regarding my wiper comment. I don’t go to a mechanic, so no issues on being overcharged. The only thing I can’t handle in my garage is a tire swap.
I guess I still run some urethane bushings on my summer car, so that’s a lube point checkpoint me.
I think $110-125 for what you mentioned and an oil change is a legit price point. Assuming good quality parts are being using. I assume you’re in the MSP area, if you’re further north at a small shop, I would think $90-110.
Oil changes are loss leaders…as stated, you perform them at cost or below, so when they need real work, they are already there. Here is MOPARS latest Full Synthetic deal… $65 each when you buy 2.
2-for-130-Full-Synthetic-873x546-1.png
So not wanting to start an argument here, but if you owned an auto repair business what would you think an oil change with full synthetic oil should cost
People dont wanna realize how expensive stuff just is now. Topping off their washer fluid cost twice as much, the can of brake clean you use to clean up oil residue is 7 dollars a can now instead of 2.99. Finally oil recyclers are paying for used oil again instead of charging to pick it up. Paying the company to clean shop rags. It all adds up. If people want a 39.99 oil change everyone will be doing it themselves cause all places doing it will close.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>John Rasmussen wrote:</div>
So not wanting to start an argument here, but if you owned an auto repair business what would you think an oil change with full synthetic oil should costPeople dont wanna realize how expensive stuff just is now. Topping off their washer fluid cost twice as much, the can of brake clean you use to clean up oil residue is 7 dollars a can now instead of 2.99. Finally oil recyclers are paying for used oil again instead of charging to pick it up. Paying the company to clean shop rags. It all adds up. If people want a 39.99 oil change everyone will be doing it themselves cause all places doing it will close.
X2
100% correct
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