Different snowshoe questions?

I did not want to hijack the other tread going, but I am looking to buy a pair of snowshoes for my wife and I. We live in Iowa, so definitely not alot of use down here, some years they would not get used at all. Any suggestions on an entry level snowshoe… I do not like to buy junk, but the price range is extreme. I have seen 38 bucks on up to used car prices for them. Like I said, we are in Iowa so they will be mainly used in rolling hills with lots of drifts.

The key is to look at the quality of the bindings. That’s the failure point on cheap snowshoes. That’s where I noticed the difference some bindings you just look at them and can see no way is that going to survive, they will just break in the cold.

Also, buy the biggest length available. The whole point of snowshoes is floatation, but now people want these stubby little ones that hold no weight. Buy the model for at least 50 pounds more than you weigh. More flotation = less effort. They aren’t for dancing.

I got a pair of Yukon Charlie’s from Sams Club and they work great for the price. The main use is to snowshoe up the snowed in driveway to check on my hunting property. I probably put a few miles on them every outing and they work great. Also used them for coyote hunting although they aren’t quiet enough for that.

Grouse

Northern Lites Quicksilver 30

I have owned GV Alaskans and Hurons,traditional rawhide wood frames.I use them predator hunting,and prefer the Hurons for what I do.The Alaskans are great,but stickout front farther and I would get tangled in tall grass and cane when doing sloughs or crp.The Hurons are a little shorter,but wider so your stance is a little wider but doesnt take long to get used to.Bob Maki rubber bindings are the only ones for me.
GV run about 150,I have friends that use the military version,magnesium frame steel cable,they work well and are quite a bit cheaper.