Detached garage – Stick built vs. Pole Shed

  • Mike Klein
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 1026
    #1759058

    Structurally post frame is stronger then slab on grade. Not the other way around.

    ptc
    Apple Valley/Isle, MN
    Posts: 614
    #1759108

    I had a 40×60 put up by Sherman Lumber out of Mora 11 years ago. Very happy with the building.

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_7501.jpg

    Jamin
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 925
    #1761232

    Does anyone have any insight or opinion on using 2×4 for a detached garage / outbuilding?

    Wife and I have been discussing adding an outbuilding this summer and just starting my research. Still not undecided on stick vs pole, but I see one of the adds I saw listed by a builder on CL said he uses 2×4. Unsure if this is a good or bad thing for an outbuilding.

    Current thoughts if it helps with your suggestion:
    -unlikley we’ll ever heat it.
    -mostly storage shed for UTV, lawnmower and yard equipment, kids toys, possibly wheel house in the future.

    TIA.

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1761247

    Sidewall height and any building codes in your area will determine if 2×4 will suffice.

    Jamin
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 925
    #1761253

    Good to know, thanks Dustin. We’re zoned “Ag Res” and allowed pole buildings so not sure if that determines if 2×4 is acceptable or not. Definitely something I’ll need to research further.

    Sidewall height mentioned was 8’. Guess I’ll need to also decide if that’s sufficient or not.

    Here’s what the ad said was included:
    “prepare and level the site,2 loads of sand, 4″ concrete floor with thickened haunch, 2×4 construction with treated plate, 4/12 pitch truss system, 7/16″ sheeting on walls, 1/2″ sheeting on roof, 35 yr. architectural shingles, 1-36″ steel entry door,2-36×24 vinyl windows, vinyl siding, aluminum facia and soffit, 2-9×7 raised panel insulated overhead doors”

    24x30x8…$14,500

    The more I try research to get it done this year, the more questions I keep coming up with. doah

    Aaron Kalberer
    Posts: 373
    #1761255

    I don’t think you would be able to get a wheel house in a building with 8′ sidewalls.

    buckybadger
    Upper Midwest
    Posts: 8389
    #1761256

    Good to know, thanks Dustin. We’re zoned “Ag Res” and allowed pole buildings so not sure if that determines if 2×4 is acceptable or not. Definitely something I’ll need to research further.

    Sidewall height mentioned was 8’. Guess I’ll need to also decide if that’s sufficient or not.

    Here’s what the ad said was included:
    “prepare and level the site,2 loads of sand, 4″ concrete floor with thickened haunch, 2×4 construction with treated plate, 4/12 pitch truss system, 7/16″ sheeting on walls, 1/2″ sheeting on roof, 35 yr. architectural shingles, 1-36″ steel entry door,2-36×24 vinyl windows, vinyl siding, aluminum facia and soffit, 2-9×7 raised panel insulated overhead doors”

    24x30x8…$14,500

    The more I try research to get it done this year, the more questions I keep coming up with. doah

    I would not go with 9×7’ garage doors in any scenario. A wheelhouse won’t fit, a boat with a full windshield on a roller trailer may not either.

    gixxer01
    Avon, MN
    Posts: 639
    #1761264

    8′ high door minimum. Would argue against 2 smaller doors for a storage shed. Attached garage they’re fine where only vehicles will park. Trying to angle any kind of trailer or vehicle through a 9′ wide door is tricky.

    For reference, an F150 will just fit thru a 7hx9w door with standard mirrors. Maybe 2″ on either side and 2″ from roof.

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1761284

    Agree, probably at least 10´ sidewalls and 2 10wx9t doors minimum.

    Musky Ed
    Posts: 679
    #1761304

    You will need an 8′ high door to fit most new boats with full windshield. Get a quote for 9′ high walls. A shed the size that you are looking at, should be a very minor upcharge. You also will want a minimum 10′ wide door, and I would avoid any sidewall windows as it is too easy for crooks to see in.

    Jamin
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 925
    #1761337

    Thanks for the advice everyone! I now see the benefit to higher sidewalls and possibly one large garage door vs two smaller ones. That would definitely make things easier down the road when I convince the wife it’s time for a wheel house.

    I’m thinking something around 24x30x10 with one large door, a side access door, and just a couple windows might be the best way to go. The tip about reducing windows to hinder vandals was a good suggestion.

    MNdrifter
    Posts: 1671
    #1761345

    If you want an air conditioner on your fish house you will need a min. of a 10’ high door. Mine Just barely fits. I’m talking a fingers width.

    Jamin
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 925
    #1761347

    Wife mandates a/c for summer use so that’s good to know. Guess I need to be looking at 12’ then….

    You guys are too helpful. peace

    B-man
    Posts: 5944
    #1761348

    If you want an air conditioner on your fish house you will need a min. of a 10’ high door. Mine Just barely fits. I’m talking a fingers width.

    And the problem is that there are a lot of other variables that can come into play (tire size, shack manufacturer, a/c manufacturer, etc).

    You don’t always know what the future will bring for toys. Build accordingly (high sides, big door, and as large as possible) )

    Jamin
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 925
    #1761350

    Aint’ that the truth! I thought our 3 stall extra deep garage was WAY MORE than we’d ever need, and it was when we built since we were coming from a 1,000 sqft condo. Well, now I’m building an outbuilding. doah

    Maybe I should be going 14′ high. Starting to think I need to get the lot surveyed and determine my max before going any further now.

    Any surveyors here up for a quick cash side gig? whistling

    Aaron Kalberer
    Posts: 373
    #1761408

    When my father built his shop/storage shed, he went big, as in 36x54x12 with a 16’x10′ door he wanted to pull truck and 18′ boat into it hooked together and be able to bring the ice castle with ac in. The 10′ tall door allows for ac to clear but not by much. Taller and bigger is always nicer but it also costs more and sometimes the lot wont allow you to build the building of your dreams. I would go as big as you can fit and afford. It always seems once you have more storage space you accumulate more stuff to fill it with wink

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1761423

    Great thread. I did a stick built about 16 years ago and really like it. It has a sink & toilet, wood stove.
    The one regret I have was not putting a floor drain in, even better would be a 18″ wide by 20′ trough with a grate.

    B-man
    Posts: 5944
    #1761433

    Aint’ that the truth! I thought our 3 stall extra deep garage was WAY MORE than we’d ever need, and it was when we built since we were coming from a 1,000 sqft condo. Well, now I’m building an outbuilding. doah

    Maybe I should be going 14′ high. Starting to think I need to get the lot surveyed and determine my max before going any further now.

    Any surveyors here up for a quick cash side gig? whistling

    If you’re looking at a 12′ high door, I’d recommend going to a 14′ door and 16′ sidewalls.

    Not a ton more money, and you could always fit a big camper with roof a/c in it.

    Right now my tallest toy is my boat (11′), but my door is 14′ high in case my hobbies ever change (like getting a big camper or RV in the future).

    My door is also 20′ wide which allows me to back two of anything in side by side. Here’s a pic of my 24’x40′ stick built to give you an idea.

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_20170310_182642.jpg

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