Hello –
Looking at building a detached garage/pole shed this Spring. Nothing super huge or fancy – Just a shed to store the boat and Polaris Ranger. The size will be about 28′ x 30′ and will not be able to go much bigger because of lot space. The big debate is stick built vs. pole barn/shed style. Any opinions on which route? Anyone build a pole shed and regret not doing stick built?
Thanks – Chad
Have you checked with the city? Do they care one way or the other? Personally I want a minimum of a 10′ high overhead door. Ideally 12′. That I think tips the scale towards a pole barn. The cost of lumber becomes a factor at some point.
If you plan on heating and insulating it I’d go with stick built. Pole sheds are a bit more complicated.
Personally I would go pole barn for storage, but Munchy is correct, if you want it insulated it’s more of a discussion. I had our pole barn built 21 years ago and have never regretted going pole barn.
Piggy back question: On the pole barn for storage, is it ok to have the building put in first, and then come in later with the cement floor? Seen it done both ways. (Floor first, then pole barn) Also, any builders in the Mille Lacs (Isle) area that anyone can recommend?
Thanks
-J.
JJ, Sherman out of Mora or Latchem out of Milaca for a pole building. There is a outfit called Austin Builders? or something like that. They also build but I’m not sure where they are from.
Piggy back question: On the pole barn for storage, is it ok to have the building put in first, and then come in later with the cement floor? Seen it done both ways. (Floor first, then pole barn) Also, any builders in the Mille Lacs (Isle) area that anyone can recommend?
Thanks
-J.
Get the building up first and make SURE you want cement floors. They are expensive!!! That’s what I did and ended up staying with a gravel floor. I’ve never regretted the gravel and I don’t have to sweep it 
Get the building up first and make SURE you want cement floors. They are expensive!!! That’s what I did and ended up staying with a gravel floor. I’ve never regretted the gravel and I don’t have to sweep it grin
That is what I wanted to hear! 
-J.
If doing stick built, need to decide between frost footings or floating slab if allowed by code, then decide if you are heating it,if so, infloor or not. Pole built you get the shell up then decide on your options.
We did a 30×40 stick build to match the house. It was kinda spendy, although I never priced a pole shed for comparison. We did attic trusses for storage, insulated and sheetrock, good lighting, woodburning stove and ceiling fans. Love it though.
And if you paint I would suggest exterior paint. It has more elasticity to take the temp swings.
Surprised Randy hasn’t chimed in on this subject. He always has good building advice.
And by the way it is no longer a pole barn—-The new fancier name is it is a “Post Frame Building”.
Frost footings with stick framing is the best. If you decide to go with a slab on grade make sure and have at least one course of block to keep the wood up off the ground.
If you are ever Going to want a concrete floor don’t build a pole barn.
If you are ever Going to want a concrete floor don’t build a pole barn.
Why not? I thought a concrete floor could be added even after construction?
Grouse
Just built a 48 x 48 pole shed for cold storage only. Used composite boards for the first one a grade level (grade boards)then poured the slab after works fine. If you are going to heat it and do not need the height for larger toys then post frame is good but a bit more work to finish out, if you want smaller and heated for smaller vehicles then go framed. Many companies do pole buildings, Morton, Structural Buildings, Northland buildings are some of the big ones and I think Structural building is in Becker, I used a local contractor from my area that specialized in pole sheds. Normally home builders are better at framed buildings and the companies or smaller contractors that only do or mostly do pole buildings are more cost effective for their type of buildings. Also wiring of a pole shed is a bit more costly than a framed building in some cases as well due to wall height and framing. Good luck.
As stated above, the key questions are restrictions/codes and how its used. Provided thwy are not restricted, comes down to cold vs heated storage and what you want for walls. If its for cold storage and only temp heat, go pole barn. Regardless of your heating options, use an insulation blanket for the roof. Helps with sweating and dripping.
Regrets come from going cheap. Most common for insulating a pile barn is spray foam. Beat insulation, but comes at a cost. Truss design, perlin layout,. All dictate if you have a glorified piece of crap or a very well built structure. Beware of low ball pricing. On that size barn, if you see 2-3K difference in price, someone is cutting out quality. Been in this business for a long time. Amazing the flipping hacks I run into.
Btw, 25 years u built this house. Razing it this week. I can tell you a very well built structure is a major PITA to tear down
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<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>MnPat1 wrote:</div>
If you are ever Going to want a concrete floor don’t build a pole barn.Why not? I thought a concrete floor could be added even after construction?
Grouse
Agreed, no reason you can’t pour a slab in a pole barn.
Why not? I thought a concrete floor could be added even after construction?
Grouse
Agreed, no reason you can’t pour a slab in a pole barn.
Most of the time the posts are set and frame is in place PRIOR to pouring the floor. That is how I have always seen it done anyway. So, yes, you absolutely can do concrete in a pole framed building. My neighbor has one. He has infloor heat in his, but I will tell you it was a PITA to fur out the walls, insulate and sheetrock that thing because I helped. He still owes me for that.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>sticker wrote:</div>
Get the building up first and make SURE you want cement floors. They are expensive!!! That’s what I did and ended up staying with a gravel floor. I’ve never regretted the gravel and I don’t have to sweep it grinThat is what I wanted to hear!
-J.
I had class 5 in my pole shed but it was ready to pour if I had the money. Didn’t mind the class 5 that much.
DT
post frame you put the concrete floor after it is built. not a problem. insulation is not a problem for post frame either. post frame will be more cost effective usually but your not looking at a large garage. A standard garage slab on grade with a standard service door and 16′ door with basic electrical and opener would be around 40-50 sq/ft.
post frame you put the concrete floor after it is built. not a problem. insulation is not a problem for post frame either. post frame will be more cost effective usually but your not looking at a large garage. A standard garage slab on grade with a standard service door and 16′ door with basic electrical and opener would be around 40-50 sq/ft.
I am planning a 28×32 (900sq/ft max due to city) slab garage and budgeting about 20k
But, I will be doing 80% of the work myself. 40-50 sq/ft would not be worth it for resale, if I planned on living in the same place for 30years it might be worth spending 50k on a additional garage.
I did a pole building myself on weekends. Once it was up I kept the tools and equipment in it to finish it.Put an insulated bathroom with shower. ran in floor heat. Going to blow insulation for walls and ceiling. tin for the walls and ceiling. Never have to paint just hose down.
The guys up north poured a slab with I think 18″ footings, They then sank a u shape iron into the concrete. They set the posts in and bolt them. It’s a post frame. I might be wrong on the depth of the footings but I think they are 6×6 posts they are using.
That design with a monolithic pour is a lot more expensive then post in ground. usually only done in areas with rock that can’t be dug and able to sink posts deep enough. Still considered post frame.
Ya we got some rock up there. If you wanna frame up a 24 x 40 with 14′ sidewalls let me know. I’m assuming you do concrete work since you know so much about it. 
I have a 36 x 50 x 12 foot walls steel pole building. Mine has square posts which are a lot cleaner for finishing. Pole shed was build then we poured the floor. If you go with Steel, make sure to put your overhead doors on the ends so the snow doesn’t cause a problem. Mine has 2 overhead doors, a 16 foot which makes it nice to back my boat in, and a 10 foot. My biggest regret was not insulating and finishing the inside for heat but that didn’t seem important then. Definitely maximize the size you can build.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>MnPat1 wrote:</div>
If you are ever Going to want a concrete floor don’t build a pole barn.Why not? I thought a concrete floor could be added even after construction?
Grouse
Because if your going to spend the money for concrete you might as well do a slab on grade or frost footings. Pole buildings are lower quality, have less strength and dont last as long. If your thinking of finishing the inside or even putting a concrete floor in your money ahead to build a stick frame.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>TheFamousGrouse wrote:</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>MnPat1 wrote:</div>
If you are ever Going to want a concrete floor don’t build a pole barn.Why not? I thought a concrete floor could be added even after construction?
Grouse
Because if your going to spend the money for concrete you might as well do a slab on grade or frost footings. Pole buildings are lower quality, have less strength and dont last as long. If your thinking of finishing the inside or even putting a concrete floor in your money ahead to build a stick frame.
Completely disagree.
Ultimately it’s your decision. The reality of it is what kind of neighborhood are you in. Are there other pole buildings around you? Are they permitted by your city? Are you in a higher priced neighborhood? How long are you planning on staying at your residence? These are main questions to start with. If you’re in a high end neighborhood, then a pole shed should not be considered. If no one else has one, then you should not consider a pole shed. Pole sheds have their place, but it’s not usually in town. A stick framed garage will easier to finish, match your residence, and cost close to the same. There’s very little difference in finished cost until you get over 12′ in height.
When I built my garage which is 28X40 I purchased all the materials and hired the Amish to put up the outside and I finished the inside. I did 2X6X10 walls put on two rows of blocks which allowed me 10 foot doors. I also put in 2 drains with sloping so I could wash vehicles or boat or what ever in the winter. All the concrete work I had done from a guy and his son the garage floor plus a 20 foot slab out front was only $4600, the Amish only charged me $1100 to build it. My total garage at that time only ran me $14,000 my only regret is I did not go at least 30 feet deep if not 32.
I did not attach it to the house that way with my paint business I can deduct part of the garage where if it was connected I could not.
Me personally being in town I would never go pole shed, a nice garage would add so much value if you were to ever sell it.
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