Depth finder to fuse box.

  • Jonesy
    Posts: 1150
    #1604878

    New boat going to be installing my graphs. Old boat had everything fused to a fuse block. Pumps, lights, graphs, etc. I had no issues with interference. Had a lot of people on a facebook group claim that you must wire directly to the battery if you wish to avoid issues. Curious what you all think?

    mark-bruzek
    Two Harbors, MN
    Posts: 3921
    #1604885

    It is the best practice to do it that way, direct from graph to non-trolling motor battery with an inline fuse.

    mojogunter
    Posts: 3483
    #1604890

    My humminbrd had issues wired to the fuse box. It would shut off from time to time. Changed to directly to the battery and haven’t had an issue since.

    SuperDave1959
    Harrisville, UT
    Posts: 2816
    #1604901

    I wire everything to my fuse block. Hate birds nest at the batteries.

    CaptainMusky
    Posts: 25505
    #1604907

    If you wire it to the fuse/breaker panel it isn’t interference that would cause an issue (provided its not on the same batter as your trolling motor, but current draw that would cause your unit to turn off when you try and start the outboard.
    The only real resolution to that is to go directly to the battery and its a good idea to upsize the battery.
    Most dealers when they prep boats cheap out and just put a typical cranking battery. All of your electronics are hooked up to them including your radio, livewell, lights, etc. Over a few hours of running they draw down the battery enough that when you try and start the outboard it cuts the power to the GPS.
    I installed marine dual purpose battery and a larger size. My boat came with a group 24 cranking battery, but I increased that to a 29 Dual purpose. No issues for me since.

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.