Bucks hitting the Nutra Deer

Hopefully more people with more experience will chime in, but if you want to keep trying different props I’d recommend Cabelas. Their return policy is next to none.

Jeremy

Did you check for operator error? Fun and joke aside, you aren’t catching a bass boat nor do you need speed for tournaments. Your rig moves really well. It might get better as it breaks in. The only thing is it will bug you why it doesn’t. I would ask the manufacturer why that is the case. He’ll probably say too many fat people in your boat.

It will not hurt the motor.

One other area you may want to explore is raising your motor 1 hole up. This should gain you approx 100-200 rpm’s on the 21P prop.

You can also test out other types of 3 and 4 blade props. The Viper has a lot of blade face. There are shops that can tune those props to perform better. (Cup tipping and shaving the blade down)

A 4 blade in a 19 pitch will give you more bow life and more RPM. More bow lift = less boat drag and may keep your top end speed up in the 49-50 mph range.

If your 21P at 4900 rpm performs well overall, run it! I like a prop that stays hooked up well in turns. In otherwords, if you can make a quick turn left-then-right to avoid someting in the water and the prop does not blow out, you’re good to go.

-J.

Yes try the 21 and raise the engine up one, and if that helps a bit, try raising it one more, that is what I did, eventually you will raise it one to high, and get a roostertail and too much blow out in corners, then drop it one.

Also some Alumacrafts have add issues with the trailing edge of the transom/bottom having a slight downward curve preventing the boat from getting the proper bow lift, I have read where if you contact the factory, they can peen the lip up allowing more bow lift.

Just throwing this out, would you get better MPG with lower RPM’s ??

J. Just a quick question. What do you mean when you say “raising your motor 1 hole up”? Isn’t that what the trim button is for, or am I way off base here??

Thanks in advance,
David

It means unbolting the motor from the boat and raising it one hole on the transom base.

-J.

Check to see where your cavitation plate is in referance to the bottom of the boat, trim the motor so the palte is parallel to the bottom and see if it above or below the bottom, give us the difference.

Typically just a shade above the bottom is good.

Bow lift is not a problem, nor is hole shot. When titled up to just under the cavitation point, there is very little boat left in the water.

I know the motor is mounted on the first hole, and I have considered raising it a hole or more. I will line up the cav plate again tonight, but I’m pretty sure it is pretty much even with the bottom of the V, but will double check that tonight.

I also had the tach checked yesterday to make sure it wasn’t just a tach issue, and that checked out fine.

Did you push the throttle all the way forward?

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Did you push the throttle all the way forward?

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If you can try a small prop and see if the engine will even make the 5600 RPM. Might be that full throttle isn’t really full throttle or some other problem.

…What Jon J said! ….But check the plate when the boat is wide open throttle in the H2O. See where the plate is in relationship to the water – and the bottom of the transom at WOT. I’m guessing you can raise the motor at least one hole and get more out of it.
Remember, you want optimum operating conditions (RPM/Speed) with a regularly loaded boat too, not just “you.” You’ll want to verify speed, RPM, hole shot, mid-range drive, top-end and blow-out conditions in strong turns and in waves. …Make sure you are considering a prop that performs best for all those conditions.
Good luck.
splitshot

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…What Jon J said! ….But check the plate when the boat is wide open throttle in the H2O. See where the plate is in relationship to the water – and the bottom of the transom at WOT.

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How does one go about doing the above? With a second boat
along side the test boat?

Cant take any credit for this but on the Verado forum a very good articule on motor height with pictures. Distance from the bottom of the boat has nothing to do with how high or low the motor should be.

What they say to do is rum about a half a tank of fuel pick a calm day so the water is flat. Run WOT and trimmed up where she runs the best. Look where your cavitation plate is. If it is under water you need to raise a hole up and try again. What you want to see for max performance is the cavitation plate should be just above the water and getting water splash around it. Then start testing props.

while on the trailer, the cav plate is even with the point on the bottom of the V, so I’m guessing it is a little bit too low. I’ll have to get somebody out in the boat with me to check where it is when running. I had my daughter look once, and she said it was running below the water, but she was kind of afraid to look over the back of the boat as she didn’t want to fall out. Not sure if she really got a good look or not.

I’ll have to get whiskerkev out to check it. If he falls out, no big loss.

Thanks for all the input.

Once I raise the motor and get it set in its optimum spot, do I need to re-seal the bolts with some type of silicon? If so, anybody know what the best stuff is?

Thanks.
John

Yah no problem. Sunday Afternoon or a night next week would probably work. I think I understand what to look for based on some good posts above.

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Once I raise the motor and get it set in its optimum spot, do I need to re-seal the bolts with some type of silicon? If so, anybody know what the best stuff is?

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Generally, the bolts will stay through the transom. The nuts should be on the outside (Motor side) of the bolt. So you should be able to un-bolt the motor, move the motor off the bolts, lift up one set of holes and re-apply the nuts. You can re-add some silicone to the bolt area on the outside of the transom. I’d try to avoid removing the bolt entirly. They will be siliconed in place and should remain water tight through the process. Any quality marine grade silicone will work.

-J.

Like JJ said, rasing the motor will probably do it. You want to try to get that motor to hit the max range. My 1800 Lund had a similar set up. I was hitting 5600 after I had the motor raised and it was running 55-56 MPH GPS. I was using a 14×21 on a 150 Suzuki.

The bucks have been hitting the Nutra Deer and food blocks pretty hard lately. These are some different bucks we captured visiting the sites this last week. I cant wait until they are developed enough to ID them with last years pics.

looking good

Nice!!

Some good ones there we are going to pull cards this weekend