ONE OF THOSE DAYS

Got in one of my stands for the first time today around 3:30 had a six & an eight point come in around 5pm they were under my stand for about 10mn. Shortly after that I had a doe come in and gave me a good broad side shot, well it would have been a good shot had my knock not came out of my arrow. I checked my other arrows and they all come out when I pull on them. Has this ever happened to anyone else, and aren’t they suppose to be glued to the arrow? All in all though it was a good night, it was great to see so much activity around my stand my first time out this year.

STEVE,
THE KNOCKS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE TIGHT FITTING BUT NOT GLUED SO THAT YOU CAN TURN THE NOCK. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO FINE TUNE YOUR ARROW TO CLEAR YOUR REST. (IF USING A PRONG STYLE). I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN TO ME WHEN PULLING MY ARROW OFF THE STRING. I WILL REPLACE THAT KNOCK WITH A DIFFERENT ONE THAT FITS TIGHTER. IT PROBABLY WOULDN’T HURT TO GLUE THEM ONCE YOU GET THEM IN POSITION.

GREAT FIRST DAY ON STAND THOUGH.

STEVE,
THE KNOCKS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE TIGHT FITTING BUT NOT GLUED SO THAT YOU CAN TURN THE NOCK. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO FINE TUNE YOUR ARROW TO CLEAR YOUR REST. (IF USING A PRONG STYLE). I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN TO ME WHEN PULLING MY ARROW OFF THE STRING. I WILL REPLACE THAT KNOCK WITH A DIFFERENT ONE THAT FITS TIGHTER. IT PROBABLY WOULDN’T HURT TO GLUE THEM ONCE YOU GET THEM IN POSITION.

GREAT FIRST DAY ON STAND THOUGH.

hey steve,

I had a 4pt buck standing 15 yards away from me last year, my first year of bow hunting and I pulled the knock out of 4 of my arrows trying to be quiet and not make a noise. So i can say yes i have had one of them days!!!!!!

shane

hey steve,

I had a 4pt buck standing 15 yards away from me last year, my first year of bow hunting and I pulled the knock out of 4 of my arrows trying to be quiet and not make a noise. So i can say yes i have had one of them days!!!!!!

shane

When having your arrows done, determine where the knock needs to be and then glue it! You don’t want this happening when that trophy rack comes along!

Another reason I suggest getting them set in place is that if you have the ability to adjust them as needed, then take away the ability for them to fall out of alignment. Determine your position and glue them. I’ve seen this done by many, one of whom is a former WI state archery champion. I’ve never had a knock come loose, fall out of alignment, or steal an opportunity…………..and I see no point in flirting with any of it when it can be remedied so easily.

When having your arrows done, determine where the knock needs to be and then glue it! You don’t want this happening when that trophy rack comes along!

Another reason I suggest getting them set in place is that if you have the ability to adjust them as needed, then take away the ability for them to fall out of alignment. Determine your position and glue them. I’ve seen this done by many, one of whom is a former WI state archery champion. I’ve never had a knock come loose, fall out of alignment, or steal an opportunity…………..and I see no point in flirting with any of it when it can be remedied so easily.

When you buy arrows, they almost invariably come with the knocks ‘loose.’ This is because the archery store dosn’t know what type of rest you shoot, and whether you need the cock feather up/down or cock feather out.

After you buy them, glue them in place whichever way is right for your arrow rest. Most archery shops will glue them if you ask at time of purchase.

When you buy arrows, they almost invariably come with the knocks ‘loose.’ This is because the archery store dosn’t know what type of rest you shoot, and whether you need the cock feather up/down or cock feather out.

After you buy them, glue them in place whichever way is right for your arrow rest. Most archery shops will glue them if you ask at time of purchase.

Steve, Do you shoot the insert types of knocks that you can rotate or the others that sit on the cone end of the shaft. Theres the insert type that inserts right into the shaft that needs no glue but a tool to rotate it to alighn it with the bowstring. Plus these types of knocks have to match the inside diameter of your arrow shaft or they will come out. Theres the other type that sets on the cone end of the arrow shaft that needs glue to hold them on. If your using this type, the knock it has to be matched to also fit the arrowshaft size your shooting. I’ve put on smaller knocks accidently picking up the wrong packet of knocks only to have them come off when shooting. When I replace knocks I sand lightly or scrape the old glue thats left on the cone end to clean them up so the glue sticks better and knocks are less likely to come off. Sight down your arrow shaft and rotate the knock pressing in at the same time until the string groove in the knock alighns with the cock feather. You want your knock feather down if your rest is the pointed finger type that the cock feather would slide through after releasing. You want the cock feather up if its the small platform spring loaded type of arrow rest, usually chrome plated, other wise the cock feather would hit the rest when it goes over it and throw your shot off. Something i’ve learned is don’t be hasty and make sure that the rest won’t hit the feathers when you’ve replaced a new knock. MAKE SURE the string groove of the knock is alighned with the cock feather. A small hit of the feather against the arrow rest will throw your shot off, especially at 30 yrds or higher. I try to make absolutely sure that nothing is hitting between these too. Plus another important thing to make sure of is that your arrow knock stop is pinched on the string at a 90 degree angle to the riser, sighting with the eye is the only way i know how to do this. Plus i like to use a rubber cushion on the bowstring between the arrow knock and the knock stop then another between the arrow knock and my release. These both go around the string then you place the arrow knock between these when putting the arrow onto the string. I’ve found its a little forgiving and the knock of my arrow won’t bind agaist the knock stop on the string or my release. Hope this helps

Steve, Do you shoot the insert types of knocks that you can rotate or the others that sit on the cone end of the shaft. Theres the insert type that inserts right into the shaft that needs no glue but a tool to rotate it to alighn it with the bowstring. Plus these types of knocks have to match the inside diameter of your arrow shaft or they will come out. Theres the other type that sets on the cone end of the arrow shaft that needs glue to hold them on. If your using this type, the knock it has to be matched to also fit the arrowshaft size your shooting. I’ve put on smaller knocks accidently picking up the wrong packet of knocks only to have them come off when shooting. When I replace knocks I sand lightly or scrape the old glue thats left on the cone end to clean them up so the glue sticks better and knocks are less likely to come off. Sight down your arrow shaft and rotate the knock pressing in at the same time until the string groove in the knock alighns with the cock feather. You want your knock feather down if your rest is the pointed finger type that the cock feather would slide through after releasing. You want the cock feather up if its the small platform spring loaded type of arrow rest, usually chrome plated, other wise the cock feather would hit the rest when it goes over it and throw your shot off. Something i’ve learned is don’t be hasty and make sure that the rest won’t hit the feathers when you’ve replaced a new knock. MAKE SURE the string groove of the knock is alighned with the cock feather. A small hit of the feather against the arrow rest will throw your shot off, especially at 30 yrds or higher. I try to make absolutely sure that nothing is hitting between these too. Plus another important thing to make sure of is that your arrow knock stop is pinched on the string at a 90 degree angle to the riser, sighting with the eye is the only way i know how to do this. Plus i like to use a rubber cushion on the bowstring between the arrow knock and the knock stop then another between the arrow knock and my release. These both go around the string then you place the arrow knock between these when putting the arrow onto the string. I’ve found its a little forgiving and the knock of my arrow won’t bind agaist the knock stop on the string or my release. Hope this helps

Steve, i just scrolled back and seen your shooting what looks like carbons. I don’t know much about these but im sure that the right sized knock has to be for the right arrow. If it was me i’d glue them to make sure they don’t come out.

Steve, i just scrolled back and seen your shooting what looks like carbons. I don’t know much about these but im sure that the right sized knock has to be for the right arrow. If it was me i’d glue them to make sure they don’t come out.

my carbons have uni nocks, you can rotate them and they stay in place never worry about them pulling out

my carbons have uni nocks, you can rotate them and they stay in place never worry about them pulling out

I have tracer knocks…never had any trouble with them pullin out…an I love havin lighted knocks

I have tracer knocks…never had any trouble with them pullin out…an I love havin lighted knocks

Sounds like you had a good start to your hunting season. Deer sightings that is, Steve.
I noticed that you are shooting carbons. I’m not sure what kind though, which doesn’t really matter, because they are usually equiped with uni nocks. Meaning that they should be a snug fit, but still be able to turn the nock for proper arrow alignment. I would not recommend gluing them. Most carbons need an epoxy mixture. I would take your arrows to a local archery shop and tell them the problem. They should be able to find the right size uni nocks need for your arrows. You may have been given the wrong size nocks for the diameter size of your carbons.
Just curious also, Steve. Do you use a string loop to hook your release on or are you attaching your release straight to your bow string? Sometime when you attach your release to the bowstring below your arrow you get what’s called arrow pinch. Doesn’t always cause problems, but I believe in putting on a string loop to eliminate some release problems. A smoother release definately is achieved with a loop.
I have just made the switch over to Carbon Express arrows from my old reliable Easton Super Slams aluminums. I hated to, but after seeing how well the carbons perform it’s now not a problem. I hope this helps, Steve. If you have any more questions, I may be able to help. If not, I know a few people that can.

Sounds like you had a good start to your hunting season. Deer sightings that is, Steve.
I noticed that you are shooting carbons. I’m not sure what kind though, which doesn’t really matter, because they are usually equiped with uni nocks. Meaning that they should be a snug fit, but still be able to turn the nock for proper arrow alignment. I would not recommend gluing them. Most carbons need an epoxy mixture. I would take your arrows to a local archery shop and tell them the problem. They should be able to find the right size uni nocks need for your arrows. You may have been given the wrong size nocks for the diameter size of your carbons.
Just curious also, Steve. Do you use a string loop to hook your release on or are you attaching your release straight to your bow string? Sometime when you attach your release to the bowstring below your arrow you get what’s called arrow pinch. Doesn’t always cause problems, but I believe in putting on a string loop to eliminate some release problems. A smoother release definately is achieved with a loop.
I have just made the switch over to Carbon Express arrows from my old reliable Easton Super Slams aluminums. I hated to, but after seeing how well the carbons perform it’s now not a problem. I hope this helps, Steve. If you have any more questions, I may be able to help. If not, I know a few people that can.

Hey Jerry,
thanks for all the tips Yes I do shoot carbons and that’s exactly what I did, I stopped by my local archery shop and they put in new nocks for me, I believe they are the uni nocks, problem solved! I do not have a string loop but I am going to give that a try. The other thing I added to my bow after that mishap was a Whisker Biscuit arrow rest, works great on the target range and I can’t wait to try it out in a hunting situation

Hey Jerry,
thanks for all the tips Yes I do shoot carbons and that’s exactly what I did, I stopped by my local archery shop and they put in new nocks for me, I believe they are the uni nocks, problem solved! I do not have a string loop but I am going to give that a try. The other thing I added to my bow after that mishap was a Whisker Biscuit arrow rest, works great on the target range and I can’t wait to try it out in a hunting situation

Steve

I was thinking of getting a whisker biscuit. You’ll have to let me know how it works in the woods. Did you get the biscuit QR or the old fashioned one?

I’d like to take the opportunity to welcome Zimmy to the site. I work with Zimmy everyday and he really knows his stuff when it comes to deer hunting. Hey Zimmy, are you going to tell the treestand story or not?

Gator Hunter

Steve

I was thinking of getting a whisker biscuit. You’ll have to let me know how it works in the woods. Did you get the biscuit QR or the old fashioned one?

I’d like to take the opportunity to welcome Zimmy to the site. I work with Zimmy everyday and he really knows his stuff when it comes to deer hunting. Hey Zimmy, are you going to tell the treestand story or not?

Gator Hunter

This is the one I got.

And yes welcome to the site Jerry, I am sure that allot of us will benefit from your bow hunting knowledge, I know I already have

This is the one I got.

And yes welcome to the site Jerry, I am sure that allot of us will benefit from your bow hunting knowledge, I know I already have

Its been a couple of years since the archery lanes have been open here. Kelly couldn’t make a go of it because its too darned expensive here. Hes now working at the local sporting goods business as bowsmith. I’m not around kelly as much to hear enough talk about the perticulars on bows so it would be nice to have zimmy around to ask those question too plus expand the thoughts. Be nice to be able to keep the mind tuned too.

Its been a couple of years since the archery lanes have been open here. Kelly couldn’t make a go of it because its too darned expensive here. Hes now working at the local sporting goods business as bowsmith. I’m not around kelly as much to hear enough talk about the perticulars on bows so it would be nice to have zimmy around to ask those question too plus expand the thoughts. Be nice to be able to keep the mind tuned too.

One of my deer hunting buddies shoots a biscuit as well. Seems like a pretty cool deal, except for one problem – you have to load the arrows through it backward. Looks like the new kind that Steve P has solves this problem with a cut-out in the outer loop. I wonder if it’s as consistent as the ‘old’ biscuits?

One other note, I use a metal release loop, which is without question the way to go (IMO)

One of my deer hunting buddies shoots a biscuit as well. Seems like a pretty cool deal, except for one problem – you have to load the arrows through it backward. Looks like the new kind that Steve P has solves this problem with a cut-out in the outer loop. I wonder if it’s as consistent as the ‘old’ biscuits?

One other note, I use a metal release loop, which is without question the way to go (IMO)

I HAVE BEEN USING THE BISCUIT FOR 2 YEARS NOW AND IT IS THE GREATEST. LOADING YOUR ARROW FROM THE BACK IS NO PROBLEM, AND IT ACTUALLY BECOMES A NORMAL ACTION AFTER USING IT FOR A SHORT TIME. THE ARROW IS FULLY CAPTURED FOR THOSE OFF BALANCE ANGLES AND FOR STILL HUNTING. YOU CAN GET VERY TIGHT GROUPS WITH THE BISCUIT, AND SOME PEOPLE USE IT FOR TOURNEY’S. IT DOES NOT SLOW THE ARROW DOWN MUCH IF ANY AND YOU DON’T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT FLETCHING ALIGNMENT OR CLEARANCE. FEATHERS AND VANES WORK EQUALLY WELL REGARDLESS OF HELECAL WITHOUT DAMAGE(AS LONG AS YOUR VANE IS NOT DAMAGED ALREADY FROM SHOOTING TIGHT GROUPS).

THE NEW DESIGN OF THE WHISKER BISCUIT IS FOR USING MECHANICAL BROADHEADS AND FOR QUICKER LOADING OF THE ARROW.
I RECOMMEND THEM FOR HUNTING.