Mn Anterless Deer Applications – Sept 9 deadline

I have a yammi but a couple things I’ve noticed…my oil also appears above full when I first fill it, I tilt it up and down about 4-5 times, let it “settle”, and wipe the stick clean a few times it comes down. When draining the oil and it appears the oil is all out, I also tilt it up and down a couple times. I can get a noticable amount to drain after. You really have to give it time to drain, it’ll drain at a minor trickle for a few hours, you think that their can’t be much left, there is. My new dealer really stressed letting it drain for a extended period if you aren’t pumping it out. I find the oil level to be whacky at times, it seems I have to check and wipe the stick clean many times before I get a accurate reading. Good luck.

I just got a 250 Yamaha 4 stroke and Ive heard a lot of people saying the same thing as you are.In fact when I pulled out my boat out the other day and pulled the dipstick out it also read over full.I asked a marine mechanic about this last year and he told me 4 strokes can hold some oil at the top of the engine and to trim it down past vertical and let it sit a while and let it drain down then drain it.I have also heard people say if they arent running them hard enough and getting them up in temp they were getting gas in their oil.Im still confused by this myself.What I plan on doing is when I get my boat in the water is running it a little then checking the oil again to see what it reads.Im thinking if the oil drained down over the winter it is reading over full.After that I plan on changing it and I am going to try to measure how much comes out of it.I may even give Yamaha a call about this.I hope someone else chimes in on this as I know a lot of people have the same problem.You would think checking the oil would be a simple deal but apparently it isnt on 4 strokes.I am also concerned about gas in the oil as this is not good for bearings or lubrication.

A lot of owners are getting unburnt fuel in the oil. This has been happening for many years with both Yamaha and Mercury. Even though they know there is a problem, I doubt either manufacturer will own up to it. I sometimes wonder if they just leave it to the dealers and techs to handle it.
To fix it, your guess is as good as anybody’s. I know a few merc owners changed their fuel pump and never had a problem after that.
Some owners, after the initial break-in, ran the hell out of the motor for an extended period of time to re-seat the rings, in order to prevent blowby. This seems to be the best fix that I’ve heard.
Some owners of the big block engines were able to put in a higher temp thermostat, thus making the engine run a bit hotter before the thermostat opens. I’m not sure if I’d reccomend it though.
One problem I see with merc’s lower unit is the holes for water pick-up are very large with no screen. Their water pumps seem to suck up a lot of sand and small rock, and this will mess up a thermostat by either keeping it open all the time or not allowing it to open at all. Just depends on where the sand or pebble is located in or against the thermostat. I’ve had problems with mine doing both. I always keep a couple new thermostats in my tool box in the boat because of this.
One reccomendation if you are ‘making oil’, is to change the oil more frequently. Instead of every 100 hours or once per year, do it every 50 hours.

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I have also heard people say if they arent running them hard enough and getting them up in temp they were getting gas in their oil.Im still confused by this myself.

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I have a newer Johnson 4 stroke (Suzuki)And have the same problem, I think it is from trolling in the fall. 6 hours a night in idle might do it.

Ive also heard that running these when the water is real cold that the engine isnt getting hot enough and the rings arnt seating and they get gas blowing by the rings and into the oil

I have encountered this problem with other types of motors not outboards. I have never owned a four stroke outboard. When the motor gets up to operating temperature, oil is forced up into a dipstick tube that is tightly sealed by the dipstick. When the motor cools , the oil cannot come down to the real level in the crankcase. The first check on a cold motor and you get a real high or overfill reading. Wait a few seconds and it almost always will be down to its true reading.

Thanks for all the replies to let me know this isn’t uncommon. But do I add the 5th qt.?

Eric

Oh yea the mechanic told me to add all but 1/2 quart then run it a little and check it.Then if it needs more to add.Im only telling you what he told me and I havnt done mine yet but it makes sense to me.

I never thought checking and changing oil in these would be such a pain in the

As far as changing oil goes, it should be done when the engine is still warmed up, cold oil tends to be “sticky” and won’t drain out as completely as warm oil does. Here is a location that talks about “making oil”

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158085

Hope this helps.

lee

Thanks for the link, my kicker motor seems to do this?? Must be all that trolling in the Fall with that kikcer. Are there any issues with it “making oil”???? Is too much oil “liquid volume” a bad thing for seals, etc.??

Another reason to stick to 2 stroke DFI Motors!

Sorry guys, just jabbin’ at Castaway.

They say too much oil in a motor isnt good and gas in the oil is bad for the bearings.Although Ive never seen a problem with this in my kickers over the last 15 years.Im going to pull my boat out of the garage shortly and I will be checking the oil again to see if it changed from the other day after I ran it a little.It will take more than this to change my mind on 4 strokes.Thanks Rob

Deer hunters who use a firearm or muzzleloader in a lottery area and want to harvest an antlerless deer must apply for an either-sex permit by the Thursday, Sept. 9, deadline established by the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (DNR).

For further details, refer to the DNR news release located at the following website address:

http://news.dnr.state.mn.us/index.php/2010/08/19/apply-by-sept-9-to-harvest-antlerless-deer-in-lottery-areas/#more-43780