Broadheads and Shoulder Blades

Hi all. I wanted to inform those of you that are skeptical about mechanical broadheads and persuade you to make the switch. The day before thanksgiving of last season, i shot a doe(im going somewhere w/ this). W/ the remains of her, i threw them in the backyard to hopefully shoot at crows and coyotes if they presented a chance. My brother called me today and wanted me to shoot at the shoulder blade w/ a broadhead, for broadhead durability, and curiousity of course . I shoot Rocky Mountain Snypers 100 gr. for deer hunting, so i wanted to test it out. And this blade was not directly out of the package, it has been through a deer before, and a couple targets. At 20 yards, i shot the shoulder blade; and the arrow zipped through the target as well. I then tried out the second shoulder blade with the SlickTrick fixed blade broadhead. With this, i shot through it twice, and the final time, one of the blades broke. I then tried the Snyper again and repeated this 3 extra times. All of them broke right through that blade. After this, i picked up the femar and shot at that gigantic ball of bone. The Snyper broke right through the bone!!! After this, i shot the shoulder blade, and finally, one of the blades broke. With this test, i just wanted to let people out there to know the quality and toughness of this broadhead and to hopefully persuade you to switch Try it on the next deer that you kill with your broadhead, and compare!!

Protour, Dont forget that “those” bones have been exposed to the outside elements and have lost some strenght!! Theres never been a test with mech. heads that will EVER get me to switch. I’ve lost 2 deer when I did try them, they failed to open. This is a topic that will cause Great debate so all I’m going to say or base my feelings on is from personal experience. Shoot what you feel comfortable with and what will lead to a quick humane kill.

Protour, Dont forget that “those” bones have been exposed to the outside elements and have lost some strenght!! Theres never been a test with mech. heads that will EVER get me to switch. I’ve lost 2 deer when I did try them, they failed to open. This is a topic that will cause Great debate so all I’m going to say or base my feelings on is from personal experience. Shoot what you feel comfortable with and what will lead to a quick humane kill.

you shoot at a does shoulder blade thats been laying around outside for 4 or 5 months drying out and this is some sort of test hmmm. if the broadhead you shoot is sharp, and you shoot it well…. it will kill ill stay with my fixed blade thanks.

you shoot at a does shoulder blade thats been laying around outside for 4 or 5 months drying out and this is some sort of test hmmm. if the broadhead you shoot is sharp, and you shoot it well…. it will kill ill stay with my fixed blade thanks.

I have shot through shoulders and ribs of very fresh bones (read still kicking when they were shot ). Mechanicals do the job as well as a fixed blade. But, some people just don’t like them and that is cool. We could have testimonials from both sides all day and in the end, very few will have changed their minds. Personally, for me, I loved them. Quick clean kills with a very short tracking job (most dropped within sight )

I have shot through shoulders and ribs of very fresh bones (read still kicking when they were shot ). Mechanicals do the job as well as a fixed blade. But, some people just don’t like them and that is cool. We could have testimonials from both sides all day and in the end, very few will have changed their minds. Personally, for me, I loved them. Quick clean kills with a very short tracking job (most dropped within sight )

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you shoot at a does shoulder blade thats been laying around outside for 4 or 5 months drying out and this is some sort of test hmmm. if the broadhead you shoot is sharp, and you shoot it well…. it will kill ill stay with my fixed blade thanks.

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This test was to evaluate the toughness and durability of the two broadheads. I did not say that one is better than the other. But, w/ this test, it was clear that the Snyper out performed the SlickTrick. Considering the ball of bone on the femar and the shoulder blade to be the toughest bone on a deer, it is pretty clear what broadhead was the strongest. This test was for fun and not to prove that YOUR broadhead is better and vis versa. And to the guy that lost those deer, it probably was because it wasn’t a cut-on contact tip

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you shoot at a does shoulder blade thats been laying around outside for 4 or 5 months drying out and this is some sort of test hmmm. if the broadhead you shoot is sharp, and you shoot it well…. it will kill ill stay with my fixed blade thanks.

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This test was to evaluate the toughness and durability of the two broadheads. I did not say that one is better than the other. But, w/ this test, it was clear that the Snyper out performed the SlickTrick. Considering the ball of bone on the femar and the shoulder blade to be the toughest bone on a deer, it is pretty clear what broadhead was the strongest. This test was for fun and not to prove that YOUR broadhead is better and vis versa. And to the guy that lost those deer, it probably was because it wasn’t a cut-on contact tip

I agree to an extent…an Synpers seem to be one of the most durable…but have to mention that Mechanicals need a fairly high amount of kinetic energy… Try shooting them against fixed blades like the Stingers, Zwickys, Phantom 125s at 45-55# of draw weight and see what happens…
There are many out there that dont shoot 60-65# or more… nor should anyone really try to shoot for the shoulder blade. It doesn’t take much of angle to cause that arrow to glance off instead of busting through… JMHO

I agree to an extent…an Synpers seem to be one of the most durable…but have to mention that Mechanicals need a fairly high amount of kinetic energy… Try shooting them against fixed blades like the Stingers, Zwickys, Phantom 125s at 45-55# of draw weight and see what happens…
There are many out there that dont shoot 60-65# or more… nor should anyone really try to shoot for the shoulder blade. It doesn’t take much of angle to cause that arrow to glance off instead of busting through… JMHO

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I agree to an extent…an Synpers seem to be one of the most durable…but have to mention that Mechanicals need a fairly high amount of kinetic energy… Try shooting them against fixed blades like the Stingers, Zwickys, Phantom 125s at 45-55# of draw weight and see what happens…
There are many out there that dont shoot 60-65# or more… nor should anyone really try to shoot for the shoulder blade. It doesn’t take much of angle to cause that arrow to glance off instead of busting through… JMHO

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DITTO hit one shoulderblade in 36 years of bowhunting its something i dont recomend

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I agree to an extent…an Synpers seem to be one of the most durable…but have to mention that Mechanicals need a fairly high amount of kinetic energy… Try shooting them against fixed blades like the Stingers, Zwickys, Phantom 125s at 45-55# of draw weight and see what happens…
There are many out there that dont shoot 60-65# or more… nor should anyone really try to shoot for the shoulder blade. It doesn’t take much of angle to cause that arrow to glance off instead of busting through… JMHO

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DITTO hit one shoulderblade in 36 years of bowhunting its something i dont recomend

Pro, They were grim reaper heads and yes they are a cut on contact head

Pro, They were grim reaper heads and yes they are a cut on contact head

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but have to mention that Mechanicals need a fairly high amount of kinetic energy

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This is probably THE most important aspect of using mechanical heads.

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but have to mention that Mechanicals need a fairly high amount of kinetic energy

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This is probably THE most important aspect of using mechanical heads.

I know this is not a real scientific test, but it is interesting to read about. Of course I have found it more effective to shoot them in the lungs.

I know this is not a real scientific test, but it is interesting to read about. Of course I have found it more effective to shoot them in the lungs.

Very true Tenpoint! I know what type works best for me and I stick with them …..but the expandable type tips get a bad rap sometimes(sometimes) from people that take bad shots and need something to blame…..and usually the buck in the story was a MONSTER!

Very true Tenpoint! I know what type works best for me and I stick with them …..but the expandable type tips get a bad rap sometimes(sometimes) from people that take bad shots and need something to blame…..and usually the buck in the story was a MONSTER!

Good Debate, but like said previously use what you are comfortable with. I personally shoot fixed blades on Deer, for many reasons. I have tried some mechanicals with varying results on deer. Until I have a reason to change from my broadhead, I will use what I know works. I would just hate to be “trying” something when the buck of a lifetime steps out. I demand the best and need 100% confidence in all of my equipment every time I step into the field.

However, I’m curious as to how many people re-use boradheads or shafts after they shoot a deer?

Good Debate, but like said previously use what you are comfortable with. I personally shoot fixed blades on Deer, for many reasons. I have tried some mechanicals with varying results on deer. Until I have a reason to change from my broadhead, I will use what I know works. I would just hate to be “trying” something when the buck of a lifetime steps out. I demand the best and need 100% confidence in all of my equipment every time I step into the field.

However, I’m curious as to how many people re-use boradheads or shafts after they shoot a deer?

I used to re-use broadheads and shafts till we papper tested 2 arrows I had previously killed a deer with and holy smokes spend the 10 bucks and get a new one those deer raise holy hell on those shaft..I am sure a clean pass through is different but better safe than sorry do not need weak arrows breaking off 1/3 the way into a deer cause a weak point or anything. An for what it costs to replace muzzy blades I switch blades every year just my 2 cents

I used to re-use broadheads and shafts till we papper tested 2 arrows I had previously killed a deer with and holy smokes spend the 10 bucks and get a new one those deer raise holy hell on those shaft..I am sure a clean pass through is different but better safe than sorry do not need weak arrows breaking off 1/3 the way into a deer cause a weak point or anything. An for what it costs to replace muzzy blades I switch blades every year just my 2 cents

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I used to re-use broadheads and shafts till we papper tested 2 arrows I had previously killed a deer with and holy smokes spend the 10 bucks and get a new one those deer raise holy hell on those shaft..I am sure a clean pass through is different but better safe than sorry do not need weak arrows breaking off 1/3 the way into a deer cause a weak point or anything. An for what it costs to replace muzzy blades I switch blades every year just my 2 cents.

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Exactly my point Erick. Why risk it for around $20 on a buck of a lifetime??? Not to mention what could happen to you physically (your eyes, arm, face, etc.) from shooting a over stressed arrow shaft.

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I used to re-use broadheads and shafts till we papper tested 2 arrows I had previously killed a deer with and holy smokes spend the 10 bucks and get a new one those deer raise holy hell on those shaft..I am sure a clean pass through is different but better safe than sorry do not need weak arrows breaking off 1/3 the way into a deer cause a weak point or anything. An for what it costs to replace muzzy blades I switch blades every year just my 2 cents.

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Exactly my point Erick. Why risk it for around $20 on a buck of a lifetime??? Not to mention what could happen to you physically (your eyes, arm, face, etc.) from shooting a over stressed arrow shaft.

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Pro, They were grim reaper heads and yes they are a cut on contact head

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This is another good debate….I personally have used Grim Reaper broadheads for the last 5 years. I’ve never not gotten a deer. I’ve never had one fail to open…I’ve also never had one glance off of any bone or anything. I’ve had two sholder shots…yes the blades were broken off and found one in the shoulder and the other two in the chest cavity. they tip drove through and out the other side and still killed the deer. I’ve taken 12 deer with Grim Reapers and the longest I’ve tracked one was maybe 500 yds.

Now before my mechanicals I used Muzzy and had great success taking countless deer. Also only had a couple sholder shots, but they went clean through…didn’t loose the blades on the pass through…but still same result. I am confident in either broadhead…

I WILL NOT EVER use a shaft or broadhead after hitting an animal… I owe it to the animal and myself to make every kill a quick/humane shot. Using poor equipment or “out of tune” equipment is not going to get that effect. It didn’t matter if it was carbon or aluminum arrows or fixed or mechanical broadheads either. I use a new one for each animal.

Only my 4 cents for the day.

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Pro, They were grim reaper heads and yes they are a cut on contact head

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This is another good debate….I personally have used Grim Reaper broadheads for the last 5 years. I’ve never not gotten a deer. I’ve never had one fail to open…I’ve also never had one glance off of any bone or anything. I’ve had two sholder shots…yes the blades were broken off and found one in the shoulder and the other two in the chest cavity. they tip drove through and out the other side and still killed the deer. I’ve taken 12 deer with Grim Reapers and the longest I’ve tracked one was maybe 500 yds.

Now before my mechanicals I used Muzzy and had great success taking countless deer. Also only had a couple sholder shots, but they went clean through…didn’t loose the blades on the pass through…but still same result. I am confident in either broadhead…

I WILL NOT EVER use a shaft or broadhead after hitting an animal… I owe it to the animal and myself to make every kill a quick/humane shot. Using poor equipment or “out of tune” equipment is not going to get that effect. It didn’t matter if it was carbon or aluminum arrows or fixed or mechanical broadheads either. I use a new one for each animal.

Only my 4 cents for the day.

With a lot of broadheads out there that you are able to replace blades, say, after you shoot a deer, has anyone bought new blades and still use the same head?