I am looking into getting a Nok/loop for my bow string so that my release doesn’t tear up the string serving. I am looking for one that works well and doesn’t pinch my arrows. What do you all recommend?
Thanks!
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I am looking into getting a Nok/loop for my bow string so that my release doesn’t tear up the string serving. I am looking for one that works well and doesn’t pinch my arrows. What do you all recommend?
Thanks!
Personally I would suggest a different release first On an older bow I had a release that constantly chewed up my serving. Since then I changed bows and changed releases as well. I use a caliper release and have not had to replace a serving at all. The best part is this release cost me maybe $30 at the very most. Also on the pinched arrows, are you using any type of rubber bushing between the arrow and the release?
Personally I would suggest a different release first On an older bow I had a release that constantly chewed up my serving. Since then I changed bows and changed releases as well. I use a caliper release and have not had to replace a serving at all. The best part is this release cost me maybe $30 at the very most. Also on the pinched arrows, are you using any type of rubber bushing between the arrow and the release?
HAVE THE SERVING TAKEN OFF AND HAVE A HAND TIED SOFTER SERVING PUT ON. THIS HELPS TREMENDOUSLY OVER THE STOCK PLASTIC STYLE SERVING.
HAVE THE SERVING TAKEN OFF AND HAVE A HAND TIED SOFTER SERVING PUT ON. THIS HELPS TREMENDOUSLY OVER THE STOCK PLASTIC STYLE SERVING.
Yeahmon, I have been using a stringloop for the last 2 years with Great success . I have not had any problems and it has eliminated and arrow pinch as well as any torque. If you use the ultra nok I would think that you would still have some torque problems. I would highly recommend the string loop . Good Luck! 690reece
Yeahmon, I have been using a stringloop for the last 2 years with Great success . I have not had any problems and it has eliminated and arrow pinch as well as any torque. If you use the ultra nok I would think that you would still have some torque problems. I would highly recommend the string loop . Good Luck! 690reece
My release doesn’t chew up the serving too bad but now that I am able to shoot my bow a lot more in my backyard at our new house I can see that it is starting to wear a little faster. I need to fine tune my bow a little more this spring as I am not 100% satisfied yet with my arrow flight. I get some erractic arrow flight which is more noticeable with my broadheads. I don’t know if it is pinching my arrows for sure but I thought I might try a couple new things and see how it goes. I just have a small rubber cushion that came with the bow. The first thing I’m going to do is to do some paper tuning and see how that goes. I never did that last year with my new bow.
My release doesn’t chew up the serving too bad but now that I am able to shoot my bow a lot more in my backyard at our new house I can see that it is starting to wear a little faster. I need to fine tune my bow a little more this spring as I am not 100% satisfied yet with my arrow flight. I get some erractic arrow flight which is more noticeable with my broadheads. I don’t know if it is pinching my arrows for sure but I thought I might try a couple new things and see how it goes. I just have a small rubber cushion that came with the bow. The first thing I’m going to do is to do some paper tuning and see how that goes. I never did that last year with my new bow.
String Loop the only way to go, IMO. Click link below to learn how to do yourself. Good luck.
big g
String Loop the only way to go, IMO. Click link below to learn how to do yourself. Good luck.
big g
It will certainly help on string wear in the long run. You first need to determine what kind of release you have. I have the Winn release, which clips in place when you place pressure against it. A string loop will not work with this…especially in the heat of the moment trying to draw down on a deer. For these type of releases, you’ll need the plastic D loop, which accomplishes the same thing, but gives you something solid to push against and close the release.
It will certainly help on string wear in the long run. You first need to determine what kind of release you have. I have the Winn release, which clips in place when you place pressure against it. A string loop will not work with this…especially in the heat of the moment trying to draw down on a deer. For these type of releases, you’ll need the plastic D loop, which accomplishes the same thing, but gives you something solid to push against and close the release.
I shoot the Wynns FreeFlight, and have no problem with it. My loop is waxed, and plenty stiff. If buck fever sets in that bad…. I will probably have to hang it up !!!
big g
I shoot the Wynns FreeFlight, and have no problem with it. My loop is waxed, and plenty stiff. If buck fever sets in that bad…. I will probably have to hang it up !!!
big g
Point taken big g, but here’s mine. When I changed (reluctantly) from fingers to a release, I had certain requirements. The main one being that I could go from a sitting position to a shooting position, engage the release and prepare for the shot smoothly, quietly, and without ever taking my eyes off of the animal. This allows the hunter to constantly monitor the deer/bear, etc. and freeze if caught “in the act”. This has saved my bacon on untold number of occasions. Now…if you’re shooting the same Winn wrist release I am, I challenge you to snap it onto your string loop without ever looking at it…or fidgeting with it. I put a string loop on first, and after fighting it in the back yard for a week, took it back to the pro shop. Upon seeing my release, they immediately said “Oh…” and set me up with the D loop. Although it may be different for some, I’m not about target archery on the range…but instead, all about actual hunting conditions. I know other releases just simply snap in place without any pressure against them, and in these cases, I wouldn’t hesitate to use a string loop.
NWBuck
Point taken big g, but here’s mine. When I changed (reluctantly) from fingers to a release, I had certain requirements. The main one being that I could go from a sitting position to a shooting position, engage the release and prepare for the shot smoothly, quietly, and without ever taking my eyes off of the animal. This allows the hunter to constantly monitor the deer/bear, etc. and freeze if caught “in the act”. This has saved my bacon on untold number of occasions. Now…if you’re shooting the same Winn wrist release I am, I challenge you to snap it onto your string loop without ever looking at it…or fidgeting with it. I put a string loop on first, and after fighting it in the back yard for a week, took it back to the pro shop. Upon seeing my release, they immediately said “Oh…” and set me up with the D loop. Although it may be different for some, I’m not about target archery on the range…but instead, all about actual hunting conditions. I know other releases just simply snap in place without any pressure against them, and in these cases, I wouldn’t hesitate to use a string loop.
NWBuck
I agree with the string loop and have used once since I got my Matthwes Legacy. NW I actually have my release clipped onto my loop most of the time and hardly ever take it off unless I need to. If I’m sitting in the tree my release is on my loop. I have a Scotts Mongoose release and love that release. I also can attach my release to my loop with out looking at it, by feel. This is something I have practiced just for the “incase” situation.
I agree with the string loop and have used once since I got my Matthwes Legacy. NW I actually have my release clipped onto my loop most of the time and hardly ever take it off unless I need to. If I’m sitting in the tree my release is on my loop. I have a Scotts Mongoose release and love that release. I also can attach my release to my loop with out looking at it, by feel. This is something I have practiced just for the “incase” situation.
NW, You really got me thinking. Last night when I went home, about 9:00, I went out into the shop and took the bow out. I started putting the release on and discovered something I didn’t even know I was doing. I actually close the release with my index finger on the same hand as the release !!! I turned the lights off in the garage, and it was like it didn’t matter, I was doing it by feel. Now that I think about it, I think I must have started doing this after the loop kept going to the left or right instead of closing the bail. Anyways, you made me think, and I learned something about my own technique !!!
big g
NW, You really got me thinking. Last night when I went home, about 9:00, I went out into the shop and took the bow out. I started putting the release on and discovered something I didn’t even know I was doing. I actually close the release with my index finger on the same hand as the release !!! I turned the lights off in the garage, and it was like it didn’t matter, I was doing it by feel. Now that I think about it, I think I must have started doing this after the loop kept going to the left or right instead of closing the bail. Anyways, you made me think, and I learned something about my own technique !!!
big g
I am curious to what advantages a loop has over not having one? I have never used a loop because I never really seen the purpose of them. To me they are just another object on the bow. It looks to me like they would affect the draw length. The release I have now doesn’t chew servings I can also clip my release on the string without looking and it is as simple as pushing a lever. SO what are your thoughts on the loop and why do you use them?
I am curious to what advantages a loop has over not having one? I have never used a loop because I never really seen the purpose of them. To me they are just another object on the bow. It looks to me like they would affect the draw length. The release I have now doesn’t chew servings I can also clip my release on the string without looking and it is as simple as pushing a lever. SO what are your thoughts on the loop and why do you use them?
Mike, I never used one either, B4 I got my new bow last fall. I shoot a Wynns Free Flight, which is a glove type, with a shotgun trigger for the release. It is not ball bearings, it is actually a bail type. It would wreak havoc on my string after awhile. Also, I clipped below the arrow, and it was definitely pinching the arrow between itself and the nock point. With the string loop, I know I am clipped dead center behind my arrow now. Does it help ? Not sure. I do like the concept though. It will change draw length by about 3/4 to 1″. They adjusted mine for me at the archery dealer. It is cheaper to put a new string loop on, than a new string. I think its like alot of innovations. I can remember shooting fingers for years, and then these guys started talking about mechanical releases… I said NO WAY. I wouldn’t go without a release now. I seen a video Easton put out about 10 years ago, where they had cameras set up, watching the take off and flight of arrows. Some super fast cameras. When they shot fingers, the string would roll off the end of the fingers and send the string in at an agle, and the arrow looked like a goose taking off, flapping side to side. With the release, it is straight as …well.. AN ARROW !!! It was neat to see. I wish I could find it again.
big g
Mike, I never used one either, B4 I got my new bow last fall. I shoot a Wynns Free Flight, which is a glove type, with a shotgun trigger for the release. It is not ball bearings, it is actually a bail type. It would wreak havoc on my string after awhile. Also, I clipped below the arrow, and it was definitely pinching the arrow between itself and the nock point. With the string loop, I know I am clipped dead center behind my arrow now. Does it help ? Not sure. I do like the concept though. It will change draw length by about 3/4 to 1″. They adjusted mine for me at the archery dealer. It is cheaper to put a new string loop on, than a new string. I think its like alot of innovations. I can remember shooting fingers for years, and then these guys started talking about mechanical releases… I said NO WAY. I wouldn’t go without a release now. I seen a video Easton put out about 10 years ago, where they had cameras set up, watching the take off and flight of arrows. Some super fast cameras. When they shot fingers, the string would roll off the end of the fingers and send the string in at an agle, and the arrow looked like a goose taking off, flapping side to side. With the release, it is straight as …well.. AN ARROW !!! It was neat to see. I wish I could find it again.
big g
The disadvantage to having a nock loop is that it slows down ur speed, not much but it does. Lengthens your draw length by bout a inch or less, If its off it sets off all your shooting.
Advatages are that when its set up and in the perfect spot its on the nuts everytime.
Ive never seen a string get worn from not using one, you should have a piece of rubber between your arrow and release and have ur line wrapped aswell and u should not have any problems.
Its all personal preference, i dont see either way helping or hurting it pretty much.
The disadvantage to having a nock loop is that it slows down ur speed, not much but it does. Lengthens your draw length by bout a inch or less, If its off it sets off all your shooting.
Advatages are that when its set up and in the perfect spot its on the nuts everytime.
Ive never seen a string get worn from not using one, you should have a piece of rubber between your arrow and release and have ur line wrapped aswell and u should not have any problems.
Its all personal preference, i dont see either way helping or hurting it pretty much.
Maybe the release I use, is why it chews the serving, and moves it apart, which wears on the string underneath. Starting in July, I shoot about 80 arrows a night, more on weekends. After a couple of hundred shots, the serving would be spreading, and kind of rubbing back and forth on the string underneath. This would then start fraying where the serving opened up. I’ve killed deer with fingers, releases, string loops and without, so I guess it does come down to personal preference. I wish I could find that video. Anybody shooting fingers, would really get a kick out of it !!!
big g
Maybe the release I use, is why it chews the serving, and moves it apart, which wears on the string underneath. Starting in July, I shoot about 80 arrows a night, more on weekends. After a couple of hundred shots, the serving would be spreading, and kind of rubbing back and forth on the string underneath. This would then start fraying where the serving opened up. I’ve killed deer with fingers, releases, string loops and without, so I guess it does come down to personal preference. I wish I could find that video. Anybody shooting fingers, would really get a kick out of it !!!
big g
Wats, I used to have my old bow set up like you do. Just clip my release on the string below the arrow under the rubber and knock. Did I have a problem??? Perhaps but did not know any better at the time. On my new bow, I have a loop and would never go back. Like mentioned earlier and it is not hard to set this up right, it is dead nuts accurate, with the release right behind the arrow, without pinching the arrow and putting some toruque on the arrow (like with the release clipped on the string). I have no data behind it, but I know it does help you to become more consistent with your shots and helped me with not to torque.
We need Wallerbass (Corey) to get his butt in here and give his opinion. He has helped me here in the last year and seems to know his stuff, with data to and reasoning to back it up.
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