Cutting hole sleeves

  • Ryan Overson
    Posts: 98
    #1906709

    I bought a few of the glow hole sleeves for my IC Little Jigger. Here’s the thing, I sometimes block my house and sometimes I don’t. I plan on cutting them 5″ from the top lip, then I can use the bottom halves as extenders, inside the sleeve, when I block it. I don’t use 4x4s for blocking, I use the slightly smaller timbers w/rounded edges, that are under 3″ thick. So in reality, I’ll never be more than 8″ off the ice.

    I also have thermal hole sleeves from Hardkor, that I got at the Ice Fishing show. These are also 9″ and can be folded – they fit perfectly around the outside of the plastic sleeves and will offer additional insulation. I can also use them as extenders as well. They had a deal on them at the show and I wasn’t going to get plastic sleeves, but they’re kind of stiff and they come folded.

    What’s the easiest way to cut the plastic hole sleeves, making sure the cuts are straight? I did some searching on the internet couldn’t find anything. Dremmels are kind of a pain because their cutoff disks are narrower than the tool, so you’re always cutting at an angle. Would I be better off using a guide, drawing a line and just use a hack saw free-hand?

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1906717

    I’ve cut large PVC pipe square and true on a table saw. Set the rip fence at the length you want, rolling the pipe forward into the blade. When over the top of the blade, continue rotating the pipe in place to complete the cut.

    Depending on the flange, you may or may not be able to block up the sleeve to clear the flange and cut it like a pipe.
    You only want the blade high enough to cut through the lower wall of the pipe.

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1906725

    I wouldn’t cut them until you’ve tried them on the ice. Saying you’ll never be more than 8″ off the ice isn’t exactly true. Are you factoring in snow, frozen slush etc…?
    I wouldn’t touch them until you’re out on the ice, you don’t want to ruin them.
    As far as cutting goes, a hacksaw will work just fine. I assume they’re catch cover brand which have ridges to use as guides.

    Ryan Overson
    Posts: 98
    #1906726

    Dave, I was thinking of a table saw, but I think PVC is a bit thicker, plus they’re harder plastic; the sleeves are also tapered.

    How small does the teeth spacing need to be? My buddy has a table saw, but likely doesn’t have a fine enough blade.

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1906729

    Dave, I was thinking of a table saw, but I think PVC is a bit thicker, plus waytogo they’re harder plastic; the sleeves are also tapered.

    How small does the teeth spacing need to be? My buddy has a table saw, but likely doesn’t have a fine enough blade.

    I wouldn’t put them anywhere near a table saw. Don’t over think it!

    Bring them out on the ice along with a hacksaw and go from there.

    Ryan Overson
    Posts: 98
    #1906731

    I wouldn’t cut them until you’ve tried them on the ice. Saying you’ll never be more than 8″ off the ice isn’t exactly true. Are you factoring in snow, frozen slush etc…?
    I wouldn’t touch them until you’re out on the ice, you don’t want to ruin them.
    As far as cutting goes, a hacksaw will work just fine. I assume they’re catch cover brand which have ridges to use as guides.

    That’s why I plan on using either the bottom sections as extenders inside the sleeves, or the thermal ones that go on the outside of the sleeve, essentially infinitely adjustable.

    5″ is the lowest I’ll ever be.

    Alagnak Pete
    Lakeville
    Posts: 348
    #1906732

    Running the flange against the table saw fence and rotating it works great. Cuts like butter with a regular combination cc/rip blade. I’ve cut quite a few. Only takes a few minutes and have perfect cuts.

    Ryan Overson
    Posts: 98
    #1906736

    Thanks guys, love this site so far; very prompt replies. The IceShanty has way too many boards, so when you post in topic specific boards that few people are in, it takes a while to get replies. You spend too much time on that site hopping from board to board – less is better. I’ve eluded to that in their Suggestions/Comments board, but who pages all the way down to the bottom.

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1906739

    Thanks guys, love this site so far; very prompt replies. The IceShanty has way too many boards, so when you post in topic specific boards that few people are in, it takes a while to get replies. You spend too much time on that site hopping from board to board – less is better. I’ve eluded to that in their Suggestions/Comments board, but who pages all the way down to the bottom.

    Welcome Ryan, it’s a great site and as you’ve seen you’ll get different opinions on getting things done!
    Enjoy the new shack!

    Eelpoutguy
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 10426
    #1906743

    set the table saw blade high just high enough to cut thru the material, a zero clearance throat plate would help with the cut. Like Alagnak says, like butter!

    3rdtryguy
    Central Mn
    Posts: 1491
    #1906817

    I cut my first ones at 4 inches, too short and the new ones at 5 1/2 that work great. Keep the cut part for extensions if needed.

    Doug M
    SE SD
    Posts: 279
    #1906866

    I’ve cut large PVC pipe square and true on a table saw.

    Where can you get large pvc pieces? I looked online but only have long pieces and they weren’t cheap.

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