Crossbow bolts?

no help but a very nice buck!!

I’d call a bow shop and talk with some one. Call full draw and talk to one of the guys there. Very knowledgeable.

I do not shoot a crossbow, but i would look into a steel outsert for the bolt. Ethics archery might make them.

It just snapped like that no threads or splinters? I looks like it broke just past the insert, maybe when inserts were put in some damage was done. I have no real knowledge though, I just have blown up a couple bolts on manufacturer range days and they all had threads bursting out after.

Bearcat89 wrote:

I’d call a bow shop and talk with some one. Call full draw and talk to one of the guys there. Very knowledgeable.

I was going to call up to Bwana here in Little Canada. They have always been great. I was just curious what others have had good or bad luck with. I am new to crossbows and was surprised to see a bolt blow up from a center hit on a rib bone.

Was also surprised how much damage the broadhead still was able to do. So I am giving the bolt 2/5 stars on this deer and the broadhead take 5/5 stars for the kill.

buschman wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Bearcat89 wrote:</div>
I’d call a bow shop and talk with some one. Call full draw and talk to one of the guys there. Very knowledgeable.

I was going to call up to Bwana here in Little Canada. They have always been great. I was just curious what others have had good or bad luck with. I am new to crossbows and was surprised to see a bolt blow up from a center hit on a rib bone.

Was also surprised how much damage the broadhead still was able to do. So I am giving the bolt 2/5 stars on this deer and the broadhead take 5/5 stars for the kill.

So I am a fixed blade guy for my bow, never liked mechanicals after a issue i had years back. But I gave the kid some and the deer he hit the other day had a wicked wound. I couldn’t believe how much damage it did. But it did not pass through in a spot it should have. But the deer was dead in less then 2 minutes and less then 40 yards

I always used 3 blade muzzy fixed on my main bow but with the cross bow I have much better grouping with this hybrid at longer range. I was happy with the blades. just the main shaft of the bolt that has me scratching my head. I understand the speed in a crossbow is different so just curious how others have done with their bolts.

No experience with them but everything I read is good reports with Black Eagle Zombie Slayer or their next step down. (don’t recall what it’s called, a few dollars cheaper)
I shoot a Ravin @400fps with 400 grain bolts, their bolts are fine but nobody likes their lighted nocks.
I may start shooting the Black Eagle bolts paired with Fire Nock lighted nocks.

Are you sure it broke due to the rib on the ENTRY side and wasn’t because of being stuck in the far side on a running deer?

Arrows/bolts shot into game SHOULD be considered a consumable, with one being able to be reused just being a bonus.

I’m just over 400fps and shoot the TP – Center Punch Alpha-Nock Premium Carbon with a fixed DRT head. I’ve punched double front shoulders and BLOW through. Head shot a coyote and it came out mid back. NEVER had one blow up or break other than 1 that exited and crunched into a rock (about the size of a truck). I have a discharge bolt that has been shot well over 100 times. no issues.

Does your CB require the alph-nocks? Are you using after market luminoks?? Just a heads up on that. I had issues with my original bolts and cork-screwing when I replaced the original nock with luminoks. Had a heck of a time figuring that out. Sales Manager for Ten piont explained to me he had the same issue. Its the 1/8″ “slap” when the string drives the nock into the on position. Since, I’ve stayed with the fixed Alpha nocks and this has been a tack driver. Additionally, with the lessor grade carbon bolts, any significant scratch in them was a recipe to break. Because of the cork-screw flight, I had a lot in my targets on a slight angle and they would get hit.

Randy Wieland wrote:

Its the 1/8″ “slap” when the string drives the nock into the on position.

Ravin nocks function in the same manner. It should NOT require an 1/8″ of movement. An 1/8″ of movement would be very concerning.

Five thousandths of an inch (.005) movement, is more than enough, to turn the nock on or off. All that is required is to make or break electrical contact with one contact.

The complaint with the Ravin nocks is that the fit is extremely tight, making movement inconsistent at best.

waldo9190 wrote:

Are you sure it broke due to the rib on the ENTRY side and wasn’t because of being stuck in the far side on a running deer?

Arrows/bolts shot into game SHOULD be considered a consumable, with one being able to be reused just being a bonus.

I thought the same at first but after inspection of the internals and inside rib cavity it was clear that it broke at impact. The broadhead turned about 45 degrees and ran inside the skin down to the leg. The broadhead made it well over 20 inches past entry and the bolt never went past the fletching at entry. This was a direct broadside shot. There was zero damage done to the rib cavity on the opposite side of the entry. It was weird.

waldo9190 wrote:

Arrows/bolts shot into game SHOULD be considered a consumable, with one being able to be reused just being a bonus.

This is my thought too, I’m yet to be able to reuse a Ravin bolt for what it’s worth.

Randy Wieland wrote:

I’m just over 400fps and shoot the TP – Center Punch Alpha-Nock Premium Carbon with a fixed DRT head. I’ve punched double front shoulders and BLOW through.

Randy, I like the sounds of this!! I am not worried about a few extra bucks for a half dozen bolts.

There is a chance I damaged this bolt at the range too. Thats possible but if I can move into a better product I will on this one.

Huntindave wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
Its the 1/8″ “slap” when the string drives the nock into the on position.

Ravin nocks function in the same manner. It should NOT require an 1/8″ of movement. An 1/8″ of movement would be very concerning.

Five thousandths of an inch (.005) movement, is more than enough, to turn the nock on or off. All that is required is to make or break electrical contact with one contact.

The complaint with the Ravin nocks is that the fit is extremely tight, making movement inconsistent at best.

I probably embellished the 1/8″ a bit. Regardless of .005 to .125, that alpha nock system had too much movement and is what made them cork screw out of the ten point. Mine is now 4 years old. Did they solve the issue? I don’t know but in an effort to be more accurate, I error towards caution

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exit shoulder

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