Creating distance

Crankbaits getting more distance casting, what’s the way to go?

Suspendots or strips are there but a lil spendy. Where do you place them to minimize affecting lure action?

I’m more of the option of drilling holes and filling with small shot, again wheres the best place to drill and stuff?

Open to any other ideas as well.

Have tried placing larger shot just above the lure on line but seems it deters bites, and doesn’t always give a nice streamlined cast, gets a wobble to it really dropping distance.

You don’t mention what you are using for line but that is the route I’ve gone. Rather than trying to alter the lure I’ve changed my line to one which will cast with less drag. I use braid instead of mono for casting crank baits.

Staying with the same lb test switching fro mono to braid reduces the line diameter. This in turn reduces both the physical weight and the drag of the line going thru the guides, resulting in longer casts.

Going to a longer rod length will also increase the cast distance.

Good point Dave, I’ve contemplated going braid specifically for this application but don’t want to designate a rod for it yet. And with freezing temps it might negate the benefits.

With smaller cranks and wind it won’t matter the resistance of the line, I’d assume one simply needs mass to get out farther.

I’m assuming you are using a bait-caster?

Dutchboy wrote:

I’m assuming you are using a bait-caster?

Nope.

If casting distance is your main objective, use nanofil. You’ll get 30% more distance at a minimum.

biggill wrote:

If casting distance is your main objective, use nanofil. You’ll get 30% more distance at a minimum.

Agree,,, on the lightweight stuff 1/8-1/4 ounce stuff, I use 6lb Nanofil.

3/8-1/2 ounce I’m using 10 or 12lb braid

I fish the harshest of days this fall and coming winter open water. The brittle Nanofil in freezing temps simply cannot be used. Ice on reels, eyelets, pounding line around icechunks would fray it rather quickly from what has been said of it on threads before if I understood correctly?

In general, nanofil is not bad at shedding water/ice. In the harshest conditions, below 20 degrees is where it becomes troublesome. If you’re getting ice up, no braid is going to perform worth a damn.

Braid is a bad choice in icy conditions if you ask me.

Huntindave wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>biggill wrote:</div>
If casting distance is your main objective, use nanofil. You’ll get 30% more distance at a minimum.

Agree,,, on the lightweight stuff 1/8-1/4 ounce stuff, I use 6lb Nanofil.

3/8-1/2 ounce I’m using 10 or 12lb braid

I agree with Gill and Dave. I mostly use 10lb Berkley nano and fish a fair amount of open water in mn from now thru spring. Nano is the best option I have found but you will get some weakened line and get rid of a chunk of line occasionally depending on conditions. I haven’t tried sufix nano braid yet. I also mostly use spinning gear during the winter.

I haven’t tried sufix nano braid yet. I also mostly use spinning gear during the winter.
[/quote]

I like Sufix Nano Braid better than the Berkley NanoFil. It has better resistance to fraying and casts great. But I’ve never used either in freezing temps so can’t help on that.

Well even with the best rod/line combo in windy conditions with light cranks it won’t matter. There’s simply not enough weight there to break through.

If anyone has experience with weighing down cranks one way or another I’d love to hear it

Been awhile hope your doing well. I use 6lb nanofil all winter on pool 4 no problems. but pitching the rocks I use 8lb. good luck make sure you say hi if you see me on the water!

I have heard of wrapping solder on the shank of the treble hooks. But then you will change the action.

Hey hey!! Have been well and hope the same for yourself Still flukin it up on P3 once in awhile?

You guys talked me into getting nano, but still need a way to get #5 flickers out 20yds with a 15mph cross wind.

nhamm wrote:

Hey hey!! Have been well and hope the same for yourself Still flukin it up on P3 once in awhile?

You guys talked me into getting nano, but still need a way to get #5 flickers out 20yds with a 15mph cross wind.

Pick up a baitcaster and and give it a low snap roll cast. With that wind your only chance is low and hard.

Balance ofvrod vs line vs reel resistance. I’m talking bait cast reels. Similar but different with spinning rigs. My baitcasters are all set on free spool or close to that. I can cast or pitch a good long ways. Gotta train the thumb. But that balance is the key. Wrist, arms, body, and rod all have to work together.

One thing no-one has mentioned is spool fill. On a spinning rod the fuller the spool the lower the resistance for the line release. Result longer distance.

Nobody has mentioned having too stiff of a rod. You need a rod light enough that the lure will load up the rod on the cast. Having the lightest and best line spooled won’t help if you have a rod that is too heavy of action for the lure.

Use boat to get closer to where you want to cast…

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

Use boat to get closer to where you want to cast…

When she starts to get cold i like the option of not having to pull it out. Took several years to put together but kind of nice having a milk run of spots to hit. Warm up in the truck between spots. Saturday hit spot #1, dead, spot #2 dead, spot #3 brought home dinner

Plus I need to justify buying the mpls parks parking sticker.

Maybe creating a frontrunner hookless bait of sorts that’s completely weighted just ahead of the crank. Tangles might be an issue more but got my curiousity interested.

I can’t think of the name. Dobbin comes to mind but I’m not positive.

Someone makes a product to do what you’re asking.

It is a piece of plastic, but is neutral boyancy.

It is used in Europe to cast pike flies from a baitcaster or spinning reel rather than a fly rod.

I recall watching a video last year in YouTube where one guy used a fly rod and the other spinning gear or baitcaster…. The guy with the Dobbin thingy was able to make more casts and catch plenty of fish.

Maybe some searching and you’ll find it.

Found it.

Dobb daddy.

I was close.

Thanks for looking that up.

This video is pretty sweet.

nhamm wrote:

Hey hey!! Have been well and hope the same for yourself Still flukin it up on P3 once in awhile?

You guys talked me into getting nano, but still need a way to get #5 flickers out 20yds with a 15mph cross wind.

try switching to smash shads. very simular lure but heavier.

i like 17# nano for casting cranks due to abrasion resistance. can get a few more cranks back to.

longer rods are good. i use a 7’6″ tidemaster. look at some of the reels with larger diameter spools and shallow spools.

Mike W wrote:

try switching to smash shads. very simular lure but heavier.

The #5 size of both lures are listed at 3/16 oz. You do get an extra 1/16 oz in the #7 smash shad over the same size flicker.

The Dobb Daddy thing is pretty nifty, but wouldn’t apply to crank baits.

Oh heck, Just do as the rest of us.

Drill a hole in the d** ice and vertical jig!

pool2fool wrote:

The Dobb Daddy thing is pretty nifty, but wouldn’t apply to crank baits.

Dob daddy, swivel, leader, crank

Not saying it won’t tangle on a cast, but it is weight, and neural boyancy.

Fly fishermen hate the idea of the dobb daddy

Huntindave wrote:

Oh heck, Just do as the rest of us.

Drill a hole in the d** ice and vertical jig!

Oh ill do plenty of that! This will get me through until then hopefully.

Although the thought of being lazy chucking out some cutbait for some delicious cold water kitties is tempting now. Not enough time!!

I agree with Mike and others. Definitely try nanofil and also the smash shads. Then if you buy a dedicated setup go with a longer, slower action rod and a reel with a wide spool. Try steelhead and light saltwater rods for the right action – most freshwater spinning rods are too fast to cast cranks well.