Unfortunately as soon as Alumacraft was purchased by BRP the quality and customer service/warranty went out the window. Dealer says they are a pain to work with now and they can no longer get clear direction on what’s what.
ill be picking up my boat out of storage hopefully next week. Cant wait to pull the cover off and see the dash. 50/50 its in good shape. if its not i dont see how i can do anything other than just roll with it and hope it stays together. im not gonna pay out of pocket, what im guessing would be quite expensive, to replace it on a 6 year old boat, which would be the 3rd time the dash has been replaced
Has anyone had the cracking issue on a single console AC? Seems all I see posted about are full windshield boats. I have a 2017 competitor 205 single console with no issues.
I just got my boat out of storage this weekend. 2015 175 Trophy. Full windshield. Hadn’t noticed any cracks last fall. I do see some small cracks in front of drivers side of counsel. 
I store it indoors.
Aluminum boats flex, and plastic cracks. Ranger has the fix but no one else does it. A single console would be less likely to crack since it’s more likely to be able to flex with the boat. It’s not spanning as big of an area.
You’d think they could use a softer plastic that has a little more flexibility to it and it should prevent the cracking…
Has anyone had the cracking issue on a single console AC? Seems all I see posted about are full windshield boats. I have a 2017 competitor 205 single console with no issues.
Yes, the brand new 165 SC I saw on the dealer floor had 2 cracks that started at the windshield mounting bolts.
Aluminum boats flex, and plastic cracks. Ranger has the fix but no one else does it. A single console would be less likely to crack since it’s more likely to be able to flex with the boat. It’s not spanning as big of an area.
You’d think they could use a softer plastic that has a little more flexibility to it and it should prevent the cracking…
Makes sense. Mine is a walkthrough 10 years old and no cracks that I see. Sits outside covered under a carport all year.
I do have a brand new console set for 2016 Edge 185 still in their boxes.
Alumacraft replaced them for me under warranty. But wouldn’t cover the labor to install.
I sold the boat and forgot I had them.
If anyone is interested. Let me know
Fast forward now my port side is cracked in two places, originating from windshield bolts (on a 2018 Lund Impact). Lund has already sent a console cap for the starboard side, won’t cover labor. Hopefully they do the same for port- I’ll store them until one day when I sell the boat I guess. It’s a shame really, the problem could be solved by drilling slightly larger pilot holes for through-bolts and screws that go into the console.
What is the fix that Ranger uses mentioned above?
It’s a shame really, the problem could be solved by drilling slightly larger pilot holes for through-bolts and screws that go into the console.
Is that the real problem for sure? It certainly could be but after the many thousands of boats that Lund has built, it seems odd that Lund would drill pilot holes for windshield bolts that are too small.
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Is that the real problem for sure? It certainly could be but after the many thousands of boats that Lund has built, it seems odd that Lund would drill pilot holes for windshield bolts that are too small.
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It is the problem on mine without question. When I remove a through-bolt, it should not be threaded tight into the plastic like a self tapping screw would be. Every crack on mine originates from a factory drilled hole that is too small.
No word from Lund on my passenger side yet. Dealer has my 3rd driver side console in hand but Lund won’t cover labor. I plan to keep the console cap until this becomes a real problem and change it out myself at that point.
Bitzenguy – do you still have the consoles?
We can put a robot on Mars but we can not manufacture a boat dash that does not crack. WTF people? These boat people need to get up with 2000’s technology.
Unfortunately ALL plastics break down over time. That glaze that gets on the inside of your windshield in your car is the chemicals coming out of the plastics. (unless your a smoker) There are UV protection chemicals they put in the plastic but over time they will break down. Going thicker would help but then you add weight and cost.
The boat I just bought does not have any cracks currently so going to apply a vinyl conditioner to try to stop it from happening.
tongue in cheek…YOU GUYS HAVE GOT TO QUIT BEATING UP YOUR BOATS. LOL
I have 2016 Alumacraft 185 Competitor LE. Dash cracked first summer on driver’s side stemming from where electronics mounted. Original dealer swapped out under warranty. I drilled mount holes slightly larger. Last summer, driver’s side windshield popped out, Taylor Made brand, I was able to pop it back in after loosening off frame. Also the passenger side glove box floor fell out, it had small aluminum flanges that were only glued in place, I had to put a wooden brace in place to hold it it. The driver side consol is now cracking on the outer front corner, for no particular reason. I had and continue to have issues with electrolysis/ galvanic/ filiform corrosion etc. Alumacraft and BRP have done nothing and have made it clear that they will do nothing; despite many many people having these issues. A few people I know of, Alumacraft have serviced, others not. I have even sent them serial numbers of boats they have repaired/ replaced the transoms on. Me, they have just told too-bad, so sad. The main person who is negligent here is Ann Moriarity, Team Lead, Consumer Experience, Alumacraft. I have complained all the way up the line to BRP, not even courtesy of a response, they just don’t care! What really needs to happen with BRP and Alumacraft is a class-action lawsuit. $,2000 it cost me to have the new local Alumacraft dealer electrical test whole boat…they claim my Terrova battery harness was putting live current into my hull, (the original factory wiring had no cracks in the cabling, dealer was puzzled, when they swapped wiring harness out, no current going into hull). Along the gunwhale tops on front of boat, corrosion at every location where the bow cover snaps are, dissimilar metals/ cheap screws used? The splashwell four drain holes were completely corroded away, even when the boat was new, in the dealer lot, these thru hull plugs were ragged/ jagged/ corroding. I had to pay to have these swapped out to stop water getting into the wood transom, wood transom that up until 2017 model year, Alumacraft and Lund were using pressure treated marine plywood w/ copper components. The dealers and Alumacraft and BRP just don’t care, it is just sell sell sell. Lund have been treating their customers way better than BRP have. 2017 model year both BRP and Lund go to composite transoms, as there were issues with chemicals used in the wood preservative inside of the transom, sandwiched in aluminum, and if water gets inside…there we go…bubbling and corrosion on the world’s largest manufacturer of recreational Aluminum boats…”Alumacraft stands behind all of its products. That’s why we provide a wide-ranging aluminum boat warranty-we gaurantee that our crafts and related accessories will serve you well for years to come.”…WHAT UTTER RUBBISH!
Quick update, Lund did cover my (3rd) starboard console and my 2nd Port console. They would not cover labor this time, so $700 on my dime.
Console caps made by Taylor Made best I can tell, and they also likely supply AC. Looking through forums, years and years worth of these complaints across Lund and Aluma.
I can only speak to my direct experience with a Lund Impact. I still love the boat. Dealer (Rapid Marine Shakopee) has been great and very supportive. The cracks aren’t structural, console caps on mine are constructed as follows:
Fiberglass structural layer–> embedded aluminum plate (for graph mounting)–> fiberglass structural layer–> outside plastic overmold (this is what you see when you look at it. That plastic overmold is the only part that’s cracking, cracks don’t go down through the fiberglass layers, so I presume it’s not structural at all. the reason I keep hammering on Lund to replace is that I’m afraid when water seeps into those cracks then freezes in winter there qwill be more problems down the road that are structural, but who knows.
Lund made it a point to have Rapid Marine tell me they won’t cover any more replacements. So I’ll just run it now and not think about it anymore. might vinyl wrap the whole console cap in the future if it cracks again, just to keep water out of those cracks.
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