Converting to hydraulic steering

I have a 18.5 foot deep v boat with a 150 Etec. I want to convert to hydraulic steering. The current cable needs to be replaced. Has anyone done this themselves? Is it very difficult?

2-person job to bleed the lines. Not very difficult overall, just follow the instructions. Measure twice, cut once. Fantastic upgrade.

Thank you!

One more thing, is there a brand you recommend?

When I did mine I used seastar, the one rated for up to 150. Pretty easy job.

Sea Star is the only one I’ve used or installed.

Question: what happens if your hydraulic steering fails when you are doing 50 mph? If it is not good, perhaps better to let the dealer install it.

Sylvanboat wrote:

Question: what happens if your hydraulic steering fails when you are doing 50 mph? If it is not good, perhaps better to let the dealer install it.

“IF” is a pretty loaded question that leads to extremes and often things you have limited control on. I had a oem steering box blow out at about 65mph in a tiny channel between lakes. Pucker up and make the best reaction to minimize the final outcome is about all you can do. Much like asking what if a u-joint blows out and you throw a driveshaft on the interstate at 80mph?? ( happened to me at 75mph) limited things you can do. Can’t live life in fear of what ifs!

Thought about doing this also on my 2018 Lund Impact 150 Merc. What is a ballpark cost estimate and where do you find the best deal on Seastar?

Not a bad job to do yourself to get my old cable steer out I cut the cable mine was did not have enough room to slide it out of the motor unless I pulled the motor so took a hacksaw and cut it by the motor.

Update: I pulled the trigger 2 months ago and went with the Baystar (made by Seastar) BEST upgrade I have ever did!! One finger steering making Docking a breeze. Taking out my old 2 cable rack and pinion steering was the most difficult. Bleeding was straight forward but absolutely needs 2 people. Helm needed new holes drilled for the upgrade but for me it was no big deal.

I can’t believe rigging a new boat with hydraulic steering would add much cost to a new boat.

Thank you for y’all’s help!

DTW

Cost, -$700. Btw- Upgrade the hydraulic lines. The ones that come with the kit are not flexible and hard to run in a straight line. They make a more flexible option. Worth the upgrade.

FWIW, watch the YouTube video on self bleeding the lines. The last time I replaced a seal I used the method and it seemed to work well.

Sylvanboat wrote:

Question: what happens if your hydraulic steering fails when you are doing 50 mph? If it is not good, perhaps better to let the dealer install it.

Funny you should mention this, as I had it happen on a tritoon last week. We were in decent current on Pool 4 going about ~20mph and the fitting on the line broke (it was decently corroded). I had about 3-4 minutes with maybe 7 or 8 turns each direction before the lines were empty with no pressure and 0 steering. We had a pretty straight shot to the marina and could’ve always thrown out an anchor if needed…but it’s a great reminder to have a plan in place. For me, there was NO turning whatsoever once those lines were void of pressure.

As far as the immediate danger factor, I don’t see it as too dangerous unless you do circles at 50mph and don’t realize you’re losing your ability to steer for a few minutes before completely lost. Know your boat and how things should feel when working correctly, and hydraulic steering won’t be an issue. Most failures won’t be sudden.

It was a pretty new to me boat…all 40′. Left the slip and turned to the left to head down stream. Great turn BUT the boat kept turning in circles.

New bridge and it’s construction vessels a block down stream which by the way my circles were taking me. Then I noticed a tow coming around the corner from Colville Park. Radioed to him to tell him I’m not sure where I’ll be when he gets up here.

At first I thought there was a log stuck in the rudders. Someplace in one of the circles I figured out that the props wouldn’t be turning if there was a log in that area. I tried to use the engines to straighten it out but with the rudders stuck all the way to port…I was screwed.

I managed to maneuver the circles to just behind the new bridge in the slower current and shallower water and dropped anchor so fast that would of made the Skipper on Gilligan’s Island proud.

After my shot of Tito’s vodka… I did a little checking and found a small oil leak behind the steering wheel. Over time I lost all pressure in the upper helm. I also found out that the lower helm worked just fine as the oil didn’t get that low.

Now I check the wheel and the throttles prior the departing.

If you happen to notice more play in your wheel, check your oil levels!

buckybadger wrote:

and don’t realize you’re losing your ability to steer for a few minutes before completely lost. Know your boat and how things should feel when working correctly, and hydraulic steering won’t be an issue. Most failures won’t be sudden.

What Bucky said. I noticed I had excessive play in the steering, but since the boat was new to me, I didn’t correlate the play to low oil.

Carry a bottle of oil on the boat. I’ve never had a reservoir or line leak but ram seals have leaked a few times over my 17 years of use with a Seastar, which BTW aren’t cheap to replace for a freaking O-ring.

SuperDave1959 wrote:

Carry a bottle of oil on the boat. I’ve never had a reservoir or line leak but ram seals have leaked a few times over my 17 years of use with a Seastar, which BTW aren’t cheap to replace for a freaking O-ring.

They may be about $200 to replace and service the whole system… don’t ask how I know.

SuperDave1959 wrote:

Carry a bottle of oil on the boat.

3/4 of a quart with me! I don’t think Hamm’s will work in a pinch.

Just did mine this year and 200 covered it, but boy was it worth it let it go way too long.

DTW and Others,
Where did you find the best price and how did you select the right model? Anyone have part no. for sea star to fit 2018 or later Lund 1850 with 150 Merc 4 stroke?

When I bought mine there were 2 models. One for up to 150hp, and one for bigger engines. They are pretty universal, just google it. Mine was around 500 for the up to 150hp. I got mine from amazon.

I like my tiller more and more!

Sea Star. You will love it. No more feed back and can get rid of your trim tab.

carnivore wrote:

DTW and Others,
Where did you find the best price and how did you select the right model? Anyone have part no. for sea star to fit 2018 or later Lund 1850 with 150 Merc 4 stroke?

I have a 150 etec and bought the model for 150 or less. It’s called the Baystar which is made by Seastar. I called the company because of the concern of maxing out the steering capabilities for my 150. They told me that it was tested with much higher horse power but kept it to 150 or less. So it’s over engineered for safety. It has to do with max torque for sizing.

The dimensions of your splash well will determine if it will fit your boat. You should have no problem with your Lund 1850. Buy the unit with out the hydraulic lines. Buy the upgraded lines separate because the quality is so so much better and easier to fish through under your gunnel.

DTW

Good information. Thanks everyone. My dealer talked me out of hydraulic when I bought the boat and I’ve regretted it ever since.