Constant power to fuel and battery Tachs

  • Dave Mulder
    Posts: 78
    #1803488

    I just purchased a brand new 115 Yamaha Tiller and am having dead battery issue with a draw from the main motor.Original battry that the motor was supplied with was swapped put after it was dead. I replaced with another starting battery that is good. Not a battery issue.When I hook up the negative battery terminal from the main motor the gas and battery gauges both move up. Those should stay flat with no power if the kill switch is disconnect and no key installed? There is a purple wire that powers those gauges that comes from the ignition switch that is only supposed to give power when key is on. It appears that power is not turning off with key is turned to off position.

    Anyone have trouble shooting tips on this one?

    Dave Mulder
    Posts: 78
    #1803489

    When I removed the purple leads from the tiller handle the draw goes away.

    Attachments:
    1. EB3E3C89-F849-403D-A0F2-ADC7E6A6D566.jpeg

    2. A82580B3-92DA-4B13-A974-025F3A48236C.jpeg

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1803500

    it would seem to me the purple wire is hooked to the wrong side of the switch.
    if you have a test light find the terminal on the switch that only has power when the switch is in the run position.
    once that is found out,reroute the gauge wires to that terminal.
    it could be a bad switch but I am doubtful of that,might be two connectors touching each other as well providing unwanted power in the off position.

    I have no clue on a yamaha switch but most are labeled as to what their duty is,ie,batt is battery power,ign is power to the ignition system as well as things like your gauges,acc. is accessory powering non ignition things like a radio when the key is turned back past the off position.
    sol. or strt is the terminal used for the starter solenoid only in the start position.
    some switches have an additional terminal for loads in the run position only so as not to overload the ignition side of the switch ie,your gauge cluster.

    if you cannot see the back side of the switch due to being sealed up,you will have to find a wiring schematic specific to your motor and switch,it will show wire color codes as well as defining their duties.

    hope that helps some what,if I can be of further help,pm me.

    Dave Mulder
    Posts: 78
    #1803509

    That’s some great info right there. Thanks. Will give it a go. The tiller handle is super packed in there. I will see if I am able to get the starter connections accessible.

    Anyone ever swap out a starter in a tiller handle before?

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13469
    #1803575

    If it’s brand new, doesn’t your warranty cover that?

    I had an ignition key assembly that went bad. Did the exact same thing. Harness was all the same color code, so swapping out was simple

    Dave Mulder
    Posts: 78
    #1803584

    I am 4.5 hours from the dealer. If it’s a simple fix I am trying to trouble shoot myself.

    Dave Mulder
    Posts: 78
    #1812037

    After a bit of time on the internet searching for potential issues the problem is solved. The ignition switch wiring was installed incorrectly…..The purple lead ran from the tachs to the red wire(constant power) After taking the tiller handle apart we hooked the purple wire to yellow lead off the ignition switch and all worked as it should. The tiller handle dis-assembly is no small feat! We took a bunch of pics for reference and to help with putting all back together.

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3787
    #1812101

    Good on you Dave for getting in there and figuring it out !
    thanks for posting back what you found.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.