Clay Bar for auto detailing ???

Its my Daughters Birthday today and she is out of town. For her birthday present I am going to detail her car for her. I started the process last night by washing her car real good. The surface seemed to still have something on it. Either a sap or a road grime of some type. So rather than wax it I held off. I have never used a clay bar before, but thought that may be my next step. How do they work and is it effective at removing what is on the paint without harming the paint? Or is there something else that may work better?

the advice I’ve always heard is to start with the least aggressive method first. Wash it and then try a white polishing compound. See what that does.p

I have never used a clay bar but I will tell you the best Auto & boat detailing investment I ever made was a $35 Harbor Freight 7-inch buffer polisher.

It polishes, it buffs, it waxes, it sands. Talk about a labor saver. Add a good tuffer buffer polishing bonnet and it really cuts down on the work.

Grouse

Clay bar will work well for getting that stuck material without harming the paint. The clay pulls and traps the contamination. Dampen a small portion of the car at a time so the clay can glide. Pull off a piece of the clay bar and with a little bit of pressure, glide the clay over the spot you’re working on. When the surface of the piece of clay gets dirty, roll it up until you have a clean working surface. When that piece gets too dirty to re-use, use a new chunk of the bar. Once finished, wax it up.

clay bar works great. you will be amazed with the results. there are several kinds. there is also a slight chance you will put some small swirl marks in your paint while using it…but most people don’t look that close. but a cleaner wax might take most of them out. read directions and use a lube while claying. I have clayed most of the cars I detail but follow up with a polish or cleaner wax. I would use clay bar with no hesitation. grouse is right start with the least aggressive and check results ..check at the automotive store and see what they have. Meguiar’s makes good stuff….

Clay bar can F up the paint if you’re not careful… Don’t ask how I know

eyefishwalleye wrote:

Clay bar can F up the paint if you’re not careful… Don’t ask how I know

Do tell – maybe you can prevent me from doing the same .

I used to detail for a auto body shop. Used a clay bar once and if you watch some U Tube video’s you can use one with little risk of damage. Might be the best bet for you right now. What color is the car?

I used a orbital buffer and a rotary buffer but I’m guessing you don’t want to invest in that equipment. There are many types of pads for each one and many different types of compounds. Using either of these requires a bit of know how. Especially the rotary buffer you can burn through paint rather easily with one of those.

I take my vehicles to a friend of mine now who runs a side business detailing and does a super job.

Yes clay bar before waxing. I just use the soapy water I used to wash the car. I clay after wash and before drying, the soap keeps the clay bar moving smooth across the cars paint. You wont believe the stuff that will come off.

I love clay bars, it’s a must for a white vehicles (rail dust/fallout rust specs, black streaks, etc). Probably one of the best kept “secrets” in auto detailing.

I clay my personal truck and wife’s van 2-3 times a year.

Rule #1: DO NOT DROP THE CLAY

Rule #2: If you do, THROW IT AWAY.

If it gets one speck of sand or pebble in it, you’re going to cause scratches.

Work in small areas (couple square feet), using back and forth motions. No circles.

Keep the area wet and lubed (with soap water or detail spray designed for clay). I walk around the vehicle and use a small pail with soapy water.

Rinse the area when you’re done to keep the soap from drying on.

It’s very easy and almost impossible to screw up (unless you get sand/pebbles in the clay).

Don’t forget to do your glass. A lot of crap builds up on it too, especially the rear window and edges of the windshield.

Keep in mind this is a older Volkswagen Passat. It is in really nice shape though. I watch a few video’s and it seems simple enough. Some people say they use one every time prior to waxing. It looks like it comes in various levels depending on what you are trying to remove. I think i’ll start with the least abrasive possible.

Before you do it, put your hand in a plastic grocery bag and swipe it over the hood of the car. It will feel like you’re reading a book in brail.

Once your done, it’s smoother than silk.

Ice Cap wrote:

What color is the car?

It is Black

I was going to take it to a detailing shop here in Town but they wanted 175-200 to do it. Its been windy and is again today, So I cant go fishing so what else is there for me to do. I believe I can do a better job and save the 200.00. Who know when I’m finished with hers – I may even decide to do my truck – No !!!!

fishthumper wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Ice Cap wrote:</div>
What color is the car?

It is Black

Black is the hardest color to detail out. Use the clay bar and stay away from it with any electric buffers. I remember the first time I took a buffer to my black Monte Carlo. Looked like a mirror in the garage but when I pulled it out in the sunlight it was YIKES!! It looked like it was moving standing still it had so many swirls!!

Rubbing too hard with not enough water to lubricate. Took the clear coat off.

eyefishwalleye wrote:

Rubbing too hard with not enough water to lubricate. Took the clear coat off.

Ouch – Rubbing to hard without enough lube is never is never a good idea. When in doubt – add extra lube

B-Man had some great tips. Follow those and you should be set without doing any damage to the paint. Also, you need to use some sort of lubricant (I use Optimum No Rinse diluted appropriately) and you do not need to pres hard. I fold/knead they clay after each small 2×2 section I complete.

I have always had a black truck and have not introduced swirls when claying…it’s pretty easy just time consuming.

fishthumper wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>eyefishwalleye wrote:</div>
Rubbing too hard with not enough water to lubricate. Took the clear coat off.

Ouch – Rubbing to hard without enough lube is never is never a good idea. When in doubt – add extra lube

You do know what the worlds greatest lube is…..saliva!

This is all great advice. After you clay bar hit the car with Meguiars cleaner wax every few months. That car will look brand new.

That’s a lot of work for an older vehicle. Guess I was never one to have a shiny truck all the time. Funny, one of my first jobs was detailing, could compound and wax a vehicle in no time. All the while letting carpets soak before wet vac.

Those industrial vacuums suck up bowl hits real well, and the exhaust on em smells like crap anyways so always scrubbed the interior “real well”. Good ol days of no worries.

I never clayed anything, too much time. Compound everything off and get the color back then make her shine with some wax.

Good luck. Very nice thing to do. Be certain it will rain the very day she gets it back

On an older vehicle that’s hasn’t been detailed in a long time, it will be a multi step process. First wash then clay, after that you will probably need to use compound, then polish then wax. Think of the steps as sanding the clear coat to a smooth finish as you would a piece of wood. The compound will take out some of the deeper scratches but if you can feel it with your finger tip you will not be able to get those out. Next use the polish to remove swirls and spider webs. Lastly, wax the vehicle.

Additionally there are synthetic clay bars that are more sponge like and are easier to use than the actual clay and wont be ruined if dropped on ground. Just make sure you use plenty of lubricant such as detailer and you wont have a problem with the clay.

I have done numerous vehicles but use a dual action buffer and pads. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive one made by Chicago. They also sell buffing pads. There is one pad for each of the steps of compound, polish and wax. You will be amazed how well the vehicle will turn out following these steps. It can be time consuming but the results are extremely satisfying.

After this process you may realize the price the local detailer is relatively cheap.

If you plan on doing vehicles several times a year, it can be a money saver doing it yourself. But the up front cost of the buffer, pads, clay bar, detailer, compound, polish and wax is expensive, more than the cost you were quoted.

Talked to a guy in Devils Lake ND at the Devils Run Car Show . Can,t even remberwhat he had for a car but it was factory original early 60,s car he had all kinds of documentation posted in and around the car. When i first walked up i would have sworn it was a fresh paint job. He told me nope it was just clay barred ! This thing looked fantastic ! Easy on the pressure and plenty lube is what he said . I just couldn’t get over how paint that old could look that good ! I bought a kit my self trying to find time to do my truck yet this summer.

I do a big detail on my vehicles every 3 months with weekly washes in between. Clay bar on all surfaces makes a huge difference, including the windshield. I use all Chemical Guys products now, but any of the decent ones will work. Like already said, keep the area lubricated and work small areas in a back and forth motion. Watch the bar to make sure you’re not getting any gravel or sand in it or you can scratch the hell out of the paint.

The clay bar worked great. It took off whatever there was on the paint finish. Now if the rain stops this afternoon its onto the inside. If the rain doesn’t stop then she may end up with a 1/2 detailed car when she gets home

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Don’t look close at that truck in the background. That thing has not been detailed in years. If I get a few windy days next week I may tackle that one with the clay bar. Then again after all the time I’m putting into the daughters car I may decide the 175-200 cost to have someone else do it is not to expensive after all.

fishthumper wrote:

Then again after all the time I’m putting into the daughters car I may decide the 175-200 cost to have someone else do it is not to expensive after all.

I hear ya! After a good wash, clay, polish, and wax I can easily have a good part of a day into my truck, and that’s just the exterior. That said I haven’t had time this year to do it.

311hemi wrote:

I hear ya! After a good wash, clay, polish, and wax I can easily have a good part of a day into my truck, and that’s just the exterior. That said I haven’t had time this year to do it.

I hear you. That is time I would rather spend fishing. That is why unless the wind keeps me off the water, my truck will probably stay dirty