Changing oil in a Yamaha – Drain hose or oil extractor

  • Netguy
    Minnetonka
    Posts: 3175
    #2158854

    I’ve been using a section of bilge pump hose shoved up the drain area. This works OK but I’ve been wondering if an oil extractor is the way to go. The manual’s procedure shows using an extractor. Anyone use one? Can you get out most/all the oil? Might be a little quicker and saves buying a new washer for the oil drain bolt.

    AK Guy
    Posts: 1390
    #2158857

    Since I keep a boat on dock all season, I use an oil pump to change out my oil out of my Yamaha outboard. I do it multiple times a year and have been doing so for nearly 25 years. The pump has served me well.

    Smellson
    Posts: 328
    #2158862

    Definitely oil extractor. No mess. Takes 2 minutes.

    lindyrig79
    Forest Lake / Lake Mille Lacs
    Posts: 5805
    #2158863

    I’m not sure what you call an extractor. But they make a plastic fitting that screws directly into the oil drain and comes with a hose. The key is to to trim it up all the way horizontal before unscrewing the drain plug. Makes a messy job rather easy. PM me if you need more info but if you’re not doing it this way you definitely should.

    MX1825
    Posts: 3319
    #2158864

    Which brand/style is recommended?

    eyeguy507
    SE MN
    Posts: 5215
    #2158883

    I’m not sure what you call an extractor. But they make a plastic fitting that screws directly into the oil drain and comes with a hose. The key is to to trim it up all the way horizontal before unscrewing the drain plug. Makes a messy job rather easy. PM me if you need more info but if you’re not doing it this way you definitely should.

    yep, got one on Amazon or eBay for a couple 13…14 bucks. as careful as i was, i still made one heck of a mess without this.

    Musky Ed
    Posts: 673
    #2158890

    I use an extractor on my 300. Sucks it right out of the dipstick hole. Used it on my 250 also when I had that. Had dealer do 1st change on ea one, then I did rest. Dealer used extractor also. Cost me about $60 for the extractor, and it will pull up to 8 qts. Really simple, but a little slow going if doing outside in cold weather. I always get out about what they say you should. Pays for its self 1st time you use it.

    grizzly
    nebraska
    Posts: 967
    #2158900

    I have a heated shop so do mine over winter and like to pull the plug and let it drain

    Netguy
    Minnetonka
    Posts: 3175
    #2158909

    I do trim it all the way up after the dealership told me how they did it using the bilge tubing. (They also said they heard of guys buying an oil drain bolt, drilling a hole in it and attain a nipple for tubing). This was for my F100 in the early 2000s. Before that I used a section of PVC to get it to the drain pan. Messy.
    I’ve been doing it that way since and now with the 90 SHO. Where can you get the plastic fitting with the drain hose?
    For those using an extractor would you please post the brand name. Thanks!!

    Joe
    Posts: 206
    #2158911

    I use an extractor on my 200hp yamaha. Works well, but can be slow. Ive also drained the oil via drain plug but thats a hassle removing the lower cowling. The extractor is my preferred method.

    Netguy
    Minnetonka
    Posts: 3175
    #2158954

    Here’s the kit from the previous post. I’m sure it works well but you can do the same thing with just the bilge pump hose. It fits tight into the soft plastic drain tube with no leaks. The green fitting is not needed.

    Attachments:
    1. Tilt-N-Drain.png

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2158977

    I bought an oil extractor from West Marine–it’s awesome. I have even used it on our car and truck.

    eyeguy507
    SE MN
    Posts: 5215
    #2159011

    Here’s the kit from the previous post. I’m sure it works well but you can do the same thing with just the bilge pump hose. It fits tight into the soft plastic drain tube with no leaks. The green fitting is not needed.

    thats the one i use…..i did not even think to try it without the adapter tho. going to try it next year for sure!

    Musky Ed
    Posts: 673
    #2159038

    I use this one, Mityvac.

    Attachments:
    1. 20221113_192435.jpg

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3791
    #2159041

    When possible and if you are able to, run the motor on a hose for a few minutes to warm up the oil, it will pump out/drain much easier.

    aleb
    Butler county Iowa
    Posts: 342
    #2159050

    This is the way I do it woeks great

    mark-bruzek
    Two Harbors, MN
    Posts: 3867
    #2159107

    For those saying the pump is slow, you should be warming up the motor first. this will do 2 things.
    1. make the oil thinner and faster to remove.
    2. mix up any sludge that has settled.

    One thing to check however, After you pump the oil out the first time on a new to you job pull the drain plug to make sure that you can get all the oil out. I have one of my vehicles that I can not get all the oil out by sucking it and therefore use the drain method on rather than the suck pump. Another one of mine I can get more oil out by sucking it out that the I can by draining…

    For reference I use the Panther pump.

    isu22andy
    Posts: 1743
    #2159112

    I changed mine at 70 degrees without warming it up few days ago . Let it drain over night . Pretty nice not having the filter filled with oil when you take it off. I get the sludge theory but shouldnt it be settled at the pan any way near the drain hole? Or the filter should catch it ? Shouldnt be sludge anyway in the first place lol . I believe the tilt and drain system doesnt want you engine warm ( I assume the plastic could possible heat up and melt ? )

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2159159

    One thing to check however, After you pump the oil out the first time on a new to you job pull the drain plug to make sure that you can get all the oil out.

    This is a good point. I can’t hit the bottom of my Sequoia’s oil pan with the tubing supplied with mine.

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