Cement or asphalt

  • supercat
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts: 1332
    #2021161

    I don’t know what kind of ground you have where you live. But at my place, I don’t know if Concrete would survive.. The HEAVY clay ground at my place moves up & down close to 2 feet in places over the winter. Does rebar really help with something that moves so much? Granted my driveway probably doesn’t move quite that much, but it all heaves at some point or another.

    Movement is the one of the worst things for concrete. The rebar mat will keep the concrete together as it shifts. If relief joints are put in correct the slab will stay together. Contractors all have different ideas on how to lessen the amounts of movement via different methods but that’s a another book. Heavy soils as clay need to be compacted differently to remove voids caused in nature. Clay acts like a sponge and you need to try to eliminate any sources of water entering the clay under the slab. If clay is removed from the water source and is compacted correctly it will lessen the amount of movement. Like I said there are other methods also but don’t believe everything you hear I seen many people throw money at solutions that do not work. If you really want a good solution talk to a civil engineer.

    Hodag Hunter
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts: 476
    #2021182

    Prep and sub-base are equally as important with either product.

    This is what I was thinking are I read down. What kind of base?? If more sandy concrete will be great. If it is clay with a more likelihood of heaving/cracking asphalt may be better. It is easier to fix but has more maintenance.

    I would look around your neighborhood to see how each type is holding up.

    queenswake
    NULL
    Posts: 1148
    #2021273

    With a smaller driveway, concrete all the way. Pay the extra. With concrete you can get on your knees, lay down on your back under a car, etc without messing up your clothes. No dragging stuff into the house when it gets hot out.

    Eelpoutguy
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 10400
    #2021276

    With a smaller driveway, concrete all the way. Pay the extra. With concrete you can get on your knees, lay down on your back under a car, etc without messing up your clothes. No dragging stuff into the house when it gets hot out.

    What! shock
    I only do that after too many Coronas. woot

    sji
    Posts: 421
    #2021304

    Base depth is crucial to both products as is thickness. Concrete is more forgiving. When I’m spending money on either one do it right, do it once.
    If your looking for winter snow melt use a darker color in the concrete.

    Dutchboy
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 16650
    #2021307

    Glenn after reading this you should just move into a old folks home with a tar parking lot and concrete curb & gutter. grin

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3518
    #2021420

    FWIW, my driveway is still gravel & will remain that way. I’d love to have an improved surface, but it just doesn’t seem logical..

    Our driveway is over a quarter mile long and we had asphalt grindings brought in it has held up great going on 10 years and that is driving tractors and heavy farm equipment over it. Might be an option for you we kept spending a ton every year replacing crush rock on the driveway before putting the grindings down and cost was pretty cheap at that time but I did the leveling etc myself.

    IceNEyes1986
    Harris, MN
    Posts: 1292
    #2021430

    Our driveway is over a quarter mile long and we had asphalt grindings brought in it has held up great going on 10 years and that is driving tractors and heavy farm equipment over it. Might be an option for you we kept spending a ton every year replacing crush rock on the driveway before putting the grindings down and cost was pretty cheap at that time but I did the leveling etc myself.

    I have access to a bobcat for leveling and/or spreading it out over the existing gravel, but I’m concerned the clay will eventually push up like it is now through my old, existing gravel. How thick of a base did you put down?

    supercat
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts: 1332
    #2021440

    If your aggregate is pushing down into the clay when it is soft you need to put a layer of geo-fabric down first. The fabric is similar to silt fence and will keep your aggregate from pushing down into the soft soil. You can buy it in various lengths and width. Google will get you everything.

    IceNEyes1986
    Harris, MN
    Posts: 1292
    #2021457

    If your aggregate is pushing down into the clay when it is soft you need to put a layer of geo-fabric down first. The fabric is similar to silt fence and will keep your aggregate from pushing down into the soft soil. You can buy it in various lengths and width. Google will get you everything.

    Good to know. I have been googling since this thread was started, just trying to figure out my best options. This isn’t our “forever” home. 10 year plan until the kids are done with school. We’ve lived in the house for 4 years now, built in 91 & I’m pretty sure the driveway was only done when it was built. My only other issue will be cost to get 300′ of driveway done. I have a large, horse shoe driveway. (think a backwards lower case “u”) From garage to the road is 170′. But, also another 120′ to go the the pole shed.

    rjthehunter
    Brainerd
    Posts: 1253
    #2021582

    6 years of experience in the concrete industry here. Concrete is about 30% more expensive than asphalt but lasts about 50 to 60% longer. There’s also not maintenance like there is with asphalt. If you’re planning on staying there which it sounds like you are, you owe it to yourself to do concrete.

    Also on a side note. Cement and concrete are vastly different. You’re going to want concrete for your driveway. Cement is an ingredient used in concrete but a lot of the strength in the mix comes from the amount of cement mixed with aggregate (gravel), sand and water.

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3518
    #2021588

    Our driveway was so soft all the time crush rock would just get pushed down and disappear. Until I had screenings hauled in from a local sand mine, that held up for many years as a base with crush rock over the top, until the crushed black top was available. Thickness is not consistent as once I started to spread it with my skidsteer it would start to pack and get hard to where I could not move it.

    ptc
    Apple Valley/Isle, MN
    Posts: 614
    #2021688

    IF you go asphalt, here are a couple more questions to include in the conversation:
    What is the final minimal thickness and compression rate? How does that compare to a 3,000 or 5,000 PSI concrete slab?
    What is the ratio of compacted stone base? What size stone base is used?
    How do they assure that the delivery is nearly 300 degrees?
    How do they prevent premature cool down?
    What is the minimum temp of a load you’ll accept?
    How do they test for air void %?? (this will probably make most poop themselves)
    Ask them if they’ll accept a temperature clause in a contract. If you check asphalt being poured and its below 250 or 240 degrees, it should be rejected. – Especially if its a cold day

    Randy, These are great questions. Can you give us an idea of what the good or bad answers are to each of them?

Viewing 13 posts - 31 through 43 (of 43 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.