Heres what I know, if the sparks good and it runs when you spray a fuel into the carb then its the fuel supply. You shouldn’t have a problem cleaning the carb, thier very basic and are very similar to an old lawn mower carburaters, you could switch them between those motors and they would run if the bolt holes lined up. The gaskets which you can sometimes reuse, the jet, air mixture needle and float assembly which is very basic and the brass tube that comes up through the center of the carb are all easily removed. If the brass tube dosen’t want to come out then just clean with carb cleaner and blow them out. The motor you have is very easy to work on. Something you shouldn’t loose is if its a 2 piece linkage that runs from the stator to the axel on the carburator butterfly. Sometimes theres a clip that holds those two pieces together, try to leave that clip on and inplace or mark the linkage if you have to take the clip off. If you were a diesel mechanic you shouldn’t have any problems with the carb, especially if you’ve worked on a few car and truck carbs.
Heres another thing that I always do because I’m that far into the engine. I take the flywheel off and remove the points and run a sand emeryboard through the contacts where they meet. Alot of times its easier to take the points apart because thier two pieces and clean the contacts on both halves. Those motors had a .020 thousandths point gap and it should be stamped into the flywheel for reference.
Just bring up the high side of the cam on the crankshaft on both sets of points and run the feeler gauge into the point gap. If thier too close it will advance the motor and if thier too wide it will slow the timing some, but the timing is mostly done by the stator rotating on the crankshaft. Try to get the gap as close to the .020 as possible.
When the carbs cleaned and the points are set right it should run good. If the motors never had the points looked at as far as you know its a good idea to do it and it should run good all summer, make sure the condensor and point screws are tight so they don’t slip because they will, and check for water in the lower unit and the oil level, add some if needed. If waters gotten by the O rings on the propshaft and drive axel that goes through the waterpump then drain and just refill with 90 weight oil, it dosen’t matter if theres a little water in the lower unit as long as you drain it befor winter sets in, the gears will still get enough lubrication.
