Cat Dudes, what ya think?

I’m using 80# PP. 4oz and up pancake sinker, depending on the flow. I have an area that produces some big slames. My problem is, it has alot of big rock. I have lost some dandy kitties due to my sinker hangin’ up I don’t mind loosing a sinker but, a cat

I am thinking of a swivle for my main line to run through, then a short, short, 30# mono to the sinker. The mono should break on a good hook up, I would think

Anyone doing it? What’s your thoughts. Do you think I am asking for more hang ups or, do you think it will work?

Good luck cattin’ people

Your idea may or may not help. I would drop to 20# test on the drop line if you do it, 30# mono can be quite abbraison resistent and maybe cause more problems than you foresee.

Big rocks and heavy cover are tough. I fish some of the worst where I am at. I have done the best overall with 80# power pro tied direct with a very short leader. More often than not, your bait will run into the snag(cover) than just your weight hanging up. If your weight is hanging up, use more weight. When your line gets drawn down current(not enough weight), it will continue to head downstream until your weight or bait catches something to stop it.

Fish as verticle as possible and try to rip the fish out of there is the only advice I can give.. That sounds much easier than it is. If you pull the fish away from their cover they will do 1 of 2 things, head back to it, or for open/deeper water.

Good advice from the Cement Jungle Catfishing Icon Fisher Dave.

I tried something similar last year Bret (dropper sinker).
I used a three way…all lines were 80 pound Power Pro. Fisher Dave clued me in on a short 6 to 10 inch leader earlier in the year. For the drop sinker, I used 3 to 5 inches of PP, and used a round toothpick to hold the no roll on. Much like the ice fishing bobbers.

Now…it worked great for the pick ups (as long as the fish didn’t get around something first) however…anytime the sinker ran into some hard resistance…sinker gone….in fact just lifting the terminal end off the botton with a solid up pull of the rod would, at times drop the sinker off.

I’m going to guess that if you use mono for the dropper…there would be more sinkers lost…just a guess.

One word of caution…gental casting is very important, unless your casting towards a pesky boat that’s in your way!

PS I’ve only used this …maybe three nights. I found that moving around a bit to get out of the snag was easier…don’t know if you can do that where you’re fishing.

Thanks for the info guys. I need to try some different things this year! It sounds like I have been using to long of a leader and casting out to far

Bret, I was a 12 inch leader guy. I couldn’t tell any differance once I started using shorter leaders. There are some here that don’t use leaders at all…just feed out a little line once the sinker hits bottom.

That’s too complicated for me…I need the “set” lenght…fool proof…if you know what I mean!

Another thing you might try is to vertical jig in a area like this. I like to use the ones that are designed for musky or the esox jig tipped with a 7-8 inch sucker or the big musky plastics work ok too. You can rig them so the hook is imbedded. Pretend you are fishing for walleyes. Move around a lot. When they hit them it is awesome. There is nothing like a flathead out to kill something. I have had the pole ripped out of my hand a few times so hold on.

Now that sounds like a blast Whiskerkev. That would be a great way to present a 5-8 inch gill in this area. Being by myself most times, it would also help with the chase when needed. It’s hard when your alone to hang on and get anchors in the boat

Speaking of anchors in the boat with a fish on…

I’m going to be setting up my anchor rope with a “bumper” attached to the opposite end than the anchor.

If I need to move FAST…just untie the rope from your boat and go…the bumper keeps the end floating and just grab it when you come back.

If I would have done this last year…I wouldn’t have had to by a new anchor. Got mine stuck and was trying to move above it….current caught me and I couldn’t hang on… So if anyone finds a white plasic coated anchor…you know where…it’s yours!

Another great idea, bumpers to the anchor! That is what is cool about IDA. Simple things that are shared sure help even the odds against them swimmin’ critters

If you told me where the spot is I could go there in June and fish it and give you a better idea of what sort of rig to use

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Speaking of anchors in the boat with a fish on…

I’m going to be setting up my anchor rope with a “bumper” attached to the opposite end than the anchor.

If I need to move FAST…just untie the rope from your boat and go…the bumper keeps the end floating and just grab it when you come back.

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Great idea Brian. Now I will know where to fish at when on the water. That bumper is going to make finding cats much easier.

A technique I have used when fishing rocky areas for walleyes is to jig a 3-way. That way I stay near the bottom but don’t let my sinker sit on the bottom to get snagged up. Works great.
Thanks, Bill

Bret – When I am fishing a heavy sinker in a lot of current what I always do, either on a bite or just retrieving to change bait, is reel up any slack line and do a quick, hard set to jerk the sinker off the bottom and into the current flow and immediately start a fast crank to the boat. If you are the least bit tentative with the retrieve you can loose the sinker to the rocks or cover. I also agree with Dave that a bigger sinker may be in order to keep your sinker and line from tumbling into the rocks and a hang up.