Carpet installation on bunks

  • mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2193935

    Replacing bunk carpet on bunks. Previously it was wrapped all around the 2×4. Thinking of just wrapping so it goes under the bottom of the 2×4 and staple on. Thinking less carpet less rot and holding water in. The boards are fine. Thanks

    Dutchboy
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 16650
    #2193941

    Will it matter if they rot from the top vs the bottom? You could always seal the wood first I suppose.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2193942

    I would wrap the whole bunk and then overlap. I did this job a couple years ago on my bunks.

    Make sure you use stainless steel staples otherwise they will rust.

    One piece of advice that someone relayed to me was to always completely soak the bunks before loading. A boat slides on a bunk a lot better when the carpet is fully wet, and helps prevent the carpet from ripping.

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6334
    #2193951

    One piece of advice that someone relayed to me was to always completely soak the bunks before loading. A boat slides on a bunk a lot better when the carpet is fully wet, and helps prevent the carpet from ripping.

    Yep get them good and wet first for sure. Another tip is look at how your bunks are attached. If there is just lag screw in to the wood type bolts from underneath. You might consider drilling it out and replacing it with a bolt and nut. Counter sink the bolt head or nut on the top side so it is flush with the top of the bunk. I have had those other type loosen up and got lucky when I lost a bunk at the launch on Rush, didn’t notice till we got back from fishing and it was still there floating against the shore, different wind and I would have been screwed.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2193952

    I think they make a bunk that is carpet-less too. Ultimate bunk boards or something. I saw a couple rigs with them last year at the access.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2193956

    You might consider drilling it out and replacing it with a bolt and nut. Counter sink the bolt head or nut on the top side so it is flush with the top of the bunk.

    Good tip. I know I have had to tighten a few of the lags on mine. When it comes time to redo them, I’ll go this route.

    bigcrappie
    Blaine
    Posts: 4322
    #2193963

    Red shag carpet would make you the cool guy at the landing. Just saying…….

    Ripjiggen
    Posts: 11586
    #2193965

    Replacing bunk carpet on bunks. Previously it was wrapped all around the 2×4. Thinking of just wrapping so it goes under the bottom of the 2×4 and staple on. Thinking less carpet less rot and holding water in. The boards are fine. Thanks

    You already have to replace? Didn’t you just get that boat a year or two ago?

    buckybadger
    Upper Midwest
    Posts: 8163
    #2193969

    Don’t overthink it.

    I’d buy regular, untreaded 2x4s and attach the carpet with long stainless staples as mentioned above.

    I haven’t sealed, used treated, or done anything fancy with any rig I have ever owned for bunks and have gotten 10+ years out of all of them. I think on my fishing boat the bottom of the bunks has ~1″ or so exposed. On the tritoon they are wrapped all the way around. It doesn’t make a difference.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2193996

    Yep only 2 years old 275 trips with it and the carpet is down to wood already in spots. The wood appears fine. So just replacing the carpet. The carpet is made so it goes over the mounting brackets stupid. So I’m jacking the boat up and doing it now. I don’t have the tools and time to be stuck at a landing and can’t get them back on. I had Ultimate bunk boards on the last boat worst thing ever gouged the aluminum and started to wear the rivet heads down. They were meant for aluminum as well. Never ever again. I think I will just wrap the carpet around less staples and quicker. Thanks everyone.

    Hodag Hunter
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts: 476
    #2193997

    I did my little boat (14′ w/ 8HP) a couple of years ago. I left the bottom of the 2x4s open. I figure they will dry faster than completely wrapped in carpet.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2194011

    So I’m jacking the boat up and doing it now. I don’t have the tools and time to be stuck at a landing and can’t get them back on.

    How do you jack the boat up off the trailer at home? I changed mine at the access the last time. Parked the boat at the access and replaced the carpet in an hour.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2194016

    Blocks in the front under the bow. Crank down tongue jack until slight pressure on blocks.
    In the rear cannot get under transom so about a foot ahead of it. I have blocks under a jack with a v groove lots of plywood. Lift it just so I can get the carpet off and put it back on. Then put blocks on the brackets so if it would fall it wouldn’t puncture the hull. The old carpet froze to the bunks last fall and ripped some so I don’t want to chance scraping the hull with the brackets that go to the 2×4’s. Other wise I would try it at a landing. Last time I tried at the landing I ran a staple in my finger and didn’t know whether to leave the boat or get it removed from the bone. In true fisherman fashion I finished the carpet. hah Also got a new stapler and infected finger.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2194062

    Could you post a photo of this when you do it?

    How do you initially lift the hull entirely off the bunks? Forklift?

    Karry Kyllo
    Posts: 1269
    #2194067

    Yep only 2 years old 275 trips with it and the carpet is down to wood already in spots. The wood appears fine. So just replacing the carpet. The carpet is made so it goes over the mounting brackets stupid. So I’m jacking the boat up and doing it now. I don’t have the tools and time to be stuck at a landing and can’t get them back on. I had Ultimate bunk boards on the last boat worst thing ever gouged the aluminum and started to wear the rivet heads down. They were meant for aluminum as well. Never ever again. I think I will just wrap the carpet around less staples and quicker. Thanks everyone.

    275 fishing trips in 2 years? That’s a bunch.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2194092

    I will attempt to Gimruis. Thanks Karry I do like to fish. Hoping to work on it tomorrow after work tonight.

    jbg1219
    NW Iowa
    Posts: 654
    #2194103

    I have my bunks on my 16 foot v bottom with no carpet on them. Running that way for about 8 years now, and I have not noticed any ill effects on doing that. I have 2 8 foot 2×6 closest to the middle keel and 2 2×4 closest to the sides of the boat. It loads easy and the boat is supported well. I swapped them at the ramp and forgot to throw the carpet in the back of the truck. Never got around to putting the carpet on.

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6019
    #2194105

    Lift the boat and trailer. Block the boat then drop the trailer down. Old tires work well between boat and blocking.

    -J.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2194144

    Lift the boat and trailer.

    Yes, but how do you just “lift” a boat? Unless we’re talking an extremely lightweight watercraft here, you can’t just lift it manually with your hands.

    tim hurley
    Posts: 5829
    #2194146

    If your budget allows go with Ultimate Bunk Boards, its a durable sythetic composite materiel that will never rot or need to be replaced, also depending on the weight of your boat it will just slide off when you launch, oh and less friction when you load too. Good Luck

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 22450
    #2194154

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Jon Jordan wrote:</div>
    Lift the boat and trailer.

    Yes, but how do you just “lift” a boat? Unless we’re talking an extremely lightweight watercraft here, you can’t just lift it manually with your hands.

    The trailer is hooked to the truck.. you “jack” the trailer with boat on it up.. put cribbing under boat… lower jacks, which lowers the trailer, boat is on cribbing.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2194158

    Seems like it would just be so much easier at the landing. Park the boat for an hour and replace the carpet in the lot.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #2194161

    That’s not easy over the winter.

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 22450
    #2194162

    That’s not easy over the winter.

    Exactly. I literally had my boat in the driveway on blocks while I reworked the trailer in the heated garage. About an hour of jacking and cribbing and you can shimmy the trailer right out from under the boat and reverse the process when done. cool

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2194243

    Here it is I used the tongue jack and went high then blocked under the bow lowered it just so the boat started to come up off the bunks. Then using the floor jack I just lifted the rear about 3 inches using the board straddled for the keel. Unable to lift on the transom so just ahead of it. The red bucket is just a wedge so it wouldn’t rock and safety. The makeshift 2×4 under the bunk brackets was in case it lowered or shifted for some reason. It went fast again only needed it to lift for about an hour

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    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17357
    #2194452

    Thanks for the photos mrpike.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2194625

    Tried Ultimate and Gatorbacks before for me the Gatorbacks were the worse. Thanks for the comments.

    stevenoak
    Posts: 1719
    #2194723

    Looks like you’re done. If you have to do it again. Menards has bestPlus plastic 2x4s for about $3 a foot. Once and done.

    Jimmy Jones
    Posts: 2810
    #2194731

    Looks like you’re done. If you have to do it again. Menards has bestPlus plastic 2x4s for about $3 a foot. Once and done.

    And no carpet to worry about.

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