Canoe paddle – finishing touches

I recently built my first hand made bent shaft canoe paddle and it turned out really good. I am at the point of applying the finishing touches and am curious what others have done or recommend? My research tells me most people simply apply a few coats of varnish to the entire thing… Others have said they varnish only the blade and then apply oil to the shaft. My question would be what type of oil? Can you apply both oil and varnish to the shaft or is it one of the other? Is there a recommended clear coat to apply after the varnish (like a polyurethane)? Or is the varnish all you need? The varnish I picked up is a marine grade spar varnish from menards.

Nice! Let’s see some pics. I’d like to do a bent shaft, standup paddle. Just last week, I posted about a paddle I built: Paddle Build

I went with a spar urethane. In fact, I just finished it this weekend. I’ll have to take a few photos. I like the glossy finish as opposed to a duller, oiled finish, but you could use linseed oil.

Here are some pics along the process. The last pic is a before and after the first coat of varnish I put on yesterday. It is a basswood shaft with a mahogany strip in the middle of the shaft. For the blade, it has strips of butternut, basswood, mahogany, more basswood and cherry.

This was my first paddle build and I learned quite a bit along the way as far as what I would do differently next time… This paddle ended up being about 2 inches too tall for me but it will work as a back up paddle. Live and learn!

How many coats of the spar urethane did you put on?

Attachments:

1. 

   Bent-shaft-3.png
   

2. 

   bent-shaft-2.jpg
   

3. 

   bent-shaft-1.jpg
   

Gitchi Gummi wrote:

Can you apply both oil and varnish to the shaft or is it one of the other?

I can’t think of any benefit in applying both (and I’m not sure it’s a good idea) because the purpose of both linseed oil and poly is to protect the paddle from water and therefore rot. Obviously, the look is somewhat different depending on what gloss level your poly has, you can very closely mimic the look of oil finish with low gloss poly and wax.

Oil is a beautiful finish on surfaces that won’t see a lot of constant water exposure. I made a set of woodworking marker gauges that I oil finished and then waxed and also I’ve done knife handles with oil. I know few people will maintain oil properly, so I only do it on things that are for my own use.

Grouse

Beautiful!

I have 3 coats on now. I think I’m done.

TheFamousGrouse wrote:

I know few people will maintain oil properly…

The other drawback to oil.

I went high-gloss spar urethane–thing looks WET!

Was this an at-home project?

Dang – now I am kind of wishing I would have went with a polyurethane for that shinny gloss. The spar varnish I picked up said it was glossy too. I only have 1 coat on thus far so maybe it will be a little more glossy after 2-3 more coats.

This was a 8 person class I attended that was put on by a guy that primarily makes cedar strip canoes and he is based out of Knife River. It was 3 hrs on Friday night and 7 hrs on Saturday. I do a fair share of woodworking already and now that I have taken the class, I am going to do some more on my own but I can already tell that finding a good source of wood is going to be the most difficult part.
Ralph, where did you source your wood for your build?

I’d be willing to bet that it’ll get glossy with another coat or two. That first coat generally soaks into the wood. Just make sure you sand between coats and keep the area dust free.

I did a similar class to you, and they supplied everything. I believe our instructor said that they get most of their lumber from Youngblood Lumber Company.

I enjoy woodworking, too, but I don’t currently have a band saw nor the carving tools.

You could get by with using a jig saw rather than the band saw for the cutting you need to do. You can get a decent jig saw for like $40. The main thing I don’t have (yet) is a belt sander for doing the handle. I also need to pick up some hand planes. Other than that, all you need is some glue, clamps, sand paper and a whole bunch of elbow grease.

Ralph – what type of wood did you use for yours?

I do have a jig saw. I didn’t use a belt sander on mine. The grip was rough cut on a band saw and shaped with a spoke shave and rasps. I really regret not grabbing some of my grandpa’s planes and spoke shaves after he died.

Mine has a solid ash shaft with cherry and walnut strips.

Gitchi Gummi wrote:

I am going to do some more on my own but I can already tell that finding a good source of wood is going to be the most difficult part.

There are quite a few hardwood suppliers in the Twin Cities and of course in the internet age, you can order lumber online especially in the smaller quantities and shorter lengths that a paddle would require.

Also, Craigslist has been awesome for me for finding people and small outfits that saw and sell local hardwoods. Most of these outfits can finish plane and even run it across a jointer for you for an extra charge.

eBay remains a goldmine for vintage hand tools like planes. I don’t think I own a single plan that is younger than I am, and in fact, I believe more than half my planes are now over a century old.

Don’t forget that a key woodworking skill is actually a metalworking skill–sharpening.

Grouse

Ralph Wiggum wrote:

I really regret not grabbing some of my grandpa’s planes and spoke shaves after he died.

Yes, that’s too bad. Some of these hand tools that were quite common at one time are now very expensive. I bought a set of patternmaker’s rasps which have random teeth patterns so they don’t “track” the wood as a modern machine-made rasp will. $75 each! I hope my grandchildren fight over them someday, at least I’ll know they understand the value.

Grouse

Here’s a few shots of my paddle after 3 coats of spar.

Attachments:

1. 

   DSC_1519.jpg
   

2. 

   DSC_1512.jpg
   

Couple more.

It doesn’t look like it in the photos, but the blade does taper towards the tip.

Attachments:

1. 

   20170403_172336.jpg
   

2. 

   20170403_172403.jpg
   

I do a lot of wooden construction. I use epoxy to glue them or tite bond 3… I then soak it with CPES penetrating epoxy… from there I can lay glass cloth and west systems to finish it. The 207 hardener is uv resistant and looks like glass. It’s all very expensive but your paddle will last for life.

jarrod holbrook wrote:

I use epoxy to glue them or tite bond 3

We used epoxy in our construction.

The paddles look great guys!

I have several old planes that get a lot of use, also have some Japanese chisels. Like Grouse said knowing how to properly sharpen these tools is very important.
Rockler has a good supply of hardwoods but I suspect there are more affordable sources.

Jarrod, can you elaborate on the glass cloth and west systems that you finish with? How expensive are you talking and where do you get that stuff? Is it easy to apply?

I put the 2nd coat of spar varnish on last night and checked this morning and it still doesn’t have much of a glossy finish on it but we will see how it looks tonight after its completely dried. I’m wondering if I should pick up some glossy spar polyurethane and put a coat or two of that on. Any thoughts?

Interesting comment on the Japanese chisels. I follow a woodworking youtube channel (the samurai carpenter) and he is all about Japanese saws and chisels. Apparently they are expensive but are built better than anything else on the market.

Gitchi Gummi wrote:

I put the 2nd coat of spar varnish on last night and checked this morning and it still doesn’t have much of a glossy finish on it but we will see how it looks tonight after its completely dried. I’m wondering if I should pick up some glossy spar polyurethane and put a coat or two of that on. Any thoughts?

What gloss level is the Spar varnish (I assume it’s actually poly, not true varnish) that you are using?

Like other polys, they come in different gloss levels. Are you sure you’re using the highest gloss level, ie “Clear Gloss” or somthing to that effect, and not “Clear Satin” or some other lower gloss level?

Grouse

Grouse, this is what I am using. It was the only glossy spar varnish Menards had.

Attachments:

1. 

   varnish.png
   

This is what I used. It is GLOSSY! Did you sand between coats and wipe it down with mineral spirits and a tack cloth?

Yep – definitely sanded it and wiped down before the 2nd coat.

I’m thinking I will keep at it and do 2 more coats and see how it turns out. If I don’t like it, I will sand it all off and start over with something else.

Ralph, was yours noticeably glossy after coats 1/2?

Gitchi Gummi wrote:

Ralph, was yours noticeably glossy after coats 1/2?

Not after #1, but it was quite glossy after coat #2.

I’ve never used that Rustoleum product, so can’t comment on final gloss level.

Don’t sand everything off if you start over. Just sand once with fine.

I’d try a few more coats, but if gloss doesn’t build, sand once with fine paper thoroughly, clean, then switch to the Minwax.

Grouse

Ralph Wiggum wrote:

This is what I used. It is GLOSSY! Did you sand between coats and wipe it down with mineral spirits and a tack cloth?

This is a super product Ryan. I use it on a lot of wood “outdoor” stuff Ma has in the yard and it stands up to weather real nice. When the floor went in my jon boat I applied three coats of this to the cut plywood, especially the edges, and then set the pieces in place. No issues there after 18 years.

Tom Sawvell wrote:

This is a super product Ryan.

Good to hear! I was a little hesitant and thought I should try to find something more specialized, so thanks for the confidence.

Jake, I’d let you use what I have left (which is about 95% of a quart), but I don’t think you’re near the cities. I got it at Fleet Farm. It was about $15 for a quart. Good luck!