Can there be a lean too added to this shed?

  • MNdrifter
    Posts: 1671
    #1767332

    A property we are looking at has a shed that only have what looks like 9’ high doors looked like 10’ sidewalls. I need at least 10’ doors for my fish house with air conditioner to fit in. Could you add a lean too to this shed to accommodate the fish house?

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    Ryan Speers
    Waconia, MN
    Posts: 507
    #1767337

    I’d put a tape on it, I look at it and see 8′ doors and 10′ wall height.

    Eelpoutguy
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 10299
    #1767344

    What if Mrs. Drifter lets you buy the new wheel shack?
    You’ll probably need the lean-to to be 32′ long and 12′ tall. waytogo

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1767346

    Gonna be tuff to get enough height unless you go all the way back to the peak or change grade or turn another shed the other way and hip it in, or look at redoing one of the existing doors, need a tape measure.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3074
    #1767348

    Gonna be tuff to get enough height unless you go all the way back to the peak or change grade or turn another shed the other way and hip it in, or look at redoing one of the existing doors, need a tape measure.

    How would one go about redoing an existing door to gain more height? I would think the existing rafters would limit the available door height.

    David Blais
    Posts: 766
    #1767349

    Judging by the entry door. It looks like 8′ garage doors. Can you get around back? You could extend the shed 10′

    mxskeeter
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts: 3682
    #1767354

    You need to measure and look inside the shed. Looks like 8 ft door and 9 sidewall.

    reddog
    Posts: 803
    #1767361

    Is the inside finished off, or is it just open trusses..

    I see 8 foot something doors and a potential ten foot cieling.

    If you have a ten foot cieling, you can modify the first set of trusses (with engineering) so the door goes up into the elevated cieling. This only needs to be done for the first 5 trusses, if on 2 foot centers.

    I did this on a 45 x 66 building with 14 foot sidewalls and a 14 foot door.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11487
    #1767364

    I’d do a stand alone carport with 3 full sides and on a slab before I’d mess with leantos or replacing shed doors.

    Way less complex an very likely cheaper.

    Grouse

    MNdrifter
    Posts: 1671
    #1767371

    Your probably right grouse about price. What about raising it up? It’s unfinished inside, and no concrete.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1767381

    Can’t you take out all the doors and reframe the whole front for one big door in middle with an entry door elsewhere?

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 22358
    #1767408

    I’d put a tape on it, I look at it and see 8′ doors and 10′ wall height.

    Same here.. 80″ walk in door, 16″ higher overhead doors (5 sections too) and 24″ to the top plate according to soffit placement and assuming the light is mounted under the rafter.

    leinieman
    Chippewa Valley (Dunnville Bottoms)
    Posts: 1372
    #1767425

    Not sure who built it but just call them or another pole shed builder and ask for an estimate on what you need. Quick and easy answers.

    Air Conditioner on Ice House you must use that for camping? It just sounds wrong.
    HA

    blank
    Posts: 1769
    #1767429

    I’d do a stand alone carport with 3 full sides and on a slab before I’d mess with leantos or replacing shed doors.

    Way less complex an very likely cheaper.

    Grouse

    waytogo

    Plus it will allow for room for more toys!

    Tom Sawvell
    Inactive
    Posts: 9559
    #1767441

    If there’s access room from the side at the back I’d do as Grouse suggested only I’d use the same trusses and tie it right into the existing building with higher sidewalls and an open entry and same roof configuration. Crushed rock would save a ton of money too instead of cement. A solid floor could be added down the road if wanted and the front could be closed up then too.

    You could cut in an entry door at the back of the existing shed, or not. You’d be saving a bunch of $$$ by eliminating one long wall. Tying into the existing building would be far stronger in the end too.

    jake47
    WI
    Posts: 602
    #1767445

    Assuming 10′ side walls, you will probably be limited to a 9′ overhead door due to the clearance when it is lifted up.

    One possibility that could be explored would be to lower the grade on the inside of the shed ~1′. Often, in colder climates, the post embedment is a function of frost depth and not entirely for post lateral support. If you do pursue this, you may need to get a post framed designer/engineer on board, but ultimately it could be cheaper than adding on.

    Just my $0.02.

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