You said what the counter use is “not” for, but you didn’t say what it’s use is for?
You didn’t say what type of wood it is? Maple, hard maple, walnut, mix??
I do a lot of custom hard maple and walnut cutting boards. Whether they’re decorative center pieces or cutting boards I use Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (no lasting smell) – Lowes $10 – food grade – enough to do a lot of boards.
If you’re looking for the classic darkened satin oil surface that holds up very well, here’s how:
1. Size edges to a radius for their use. Table top 1/4″ min (I use a router) – cutting board and decorative 1/16 to 1/8″ (I use sand paper.) Top and bottom. Don’t do it … and the first splinter will tell you why you should have.
2. Sand to a 220 grit. Start with 120 grit. Gives a slightly loose grain for the oil to soak in.
3. Preheat the oil. Fill hot water in the sink and set it in, squeeze occasionally till you see it’s half way melted. Do not microwave it! Plastic bottle will shrink and it will never stand up again. Been there …. done that.
4. Put down a cloth if doing it on a bench. Preheat the wood surface with a hair dryer. Don’t burn it. Back and forth moves. It doesn’t need to be exact but around 100 to 120 degrees.
5. Squirt a healthy amount on the warm area and quickly circle rub it in with your fingers while slowly fanning the dryer over the area. You want a very thin even wet coat. If it’s a long top don’t create a stop point on the first pass – keep moving. If you’re not doing the table bottom do the ends/edges as you go.
6. If doing the bottom: Try to stay even on the top radius edge with the oil line. Any runs down the edges need to be kept wiped with a dry rag.
7. Go back to the start and circle rub the oil while fanning the dryer over the area. Too dry – add a little oil. You want to see ‘almost’ dry spots appear as you move down the top. Then go back and repeat without the dryer. Then lightly wipe it even with your wet cleanup cloth.
If doing the bottom: Flip and repeat, including edges this time, and when done flip it to make sure the top doesn’t have runs. Let it set for at least 4 hours on props. Longer is better.
Now repeat that 2 more times using a cloth (not fingers) and then hand buff to a dull shine. Those 2 coats can be thinner. The more you rub on it the better the finish. I get the kids in involved. Mom loves the oily little hands.
Based on use, every 6 months it needs one quick coat. If you want a deeper oil protection, season it before the conditioner with Howard Cutting Board Oil.
Pro’s: Easy repairs. Damage to Hard finishes are difficult to repair.
Natural satin appearance.
Con’s: Leave a drink with condensation on it overnight and you might be rubbing out a ring. Depends on when the last coat was applied.
