Bullet Proof Trailer Wiring Connections

  • Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5623
    #1792861

    This subject comes up once in a while so I thought I’d take the time to describe how I splice wires and make connections with my trailer wiring.

    1) Get the wire clean. Just like so many other things we do, surface preparation is important. Shiny like a new penny. Scrape it with a knife, use sand paper, what ever. But get the corrosion layer off the wire.

    2) It all starts with a good MECHANICAL connection. I use what is called a “Western Union Splice”. This is a way of wrapping two wires together that ends up stronger than the wire in the first place. Very hard to pull this apart. See the picture below.

    3) Solder the wires together. Any purely mechanical method…butt splices, etc…..will fail eventually. Solder should last for years and years. Don’t use acid flux solder, the acid never stops working and will eventually eat up the wire. Use Rosin flux.

    4) Cover the soldered connection with Coax Seal (see picture below). This stuff is a putty, easy to work with, and it stay pliable for decades. And it’s totally water proof. Solder that’s exposed to the weather will corrode just like any other metal and needs to be protected. The stuff is cheap and you can find it at a lot of places, including Amazon and Ebay.

    5) Cover everything with good electrical tape. Buy the “good stuff”, like 3M. And one hint here, cut the tape off and push it down around the joint. Don’t pull on the roll until the tape breaks off. That leaves a lot of stress in the tape and it will pull loose eventually.

    This might seem like a lot of screwing around, but understand that I have built antennas this way that have been up for decades without a problem. I’ve taken apart connections that were many years old and the solder was still clean and shiny. I’ve never had a splice made this way on a trailer wire fail.

    S.R.

    Attachments:
    1. Untitled.jpg

    2. 14176_46_1.jpg

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1792879

    Steve,
    Great points. I’d like to add that to me it’s worthwhile to make my own trailer harnesses, out of “tinned” marine-grade wire (basically the same coating as solder). Far too many times I’ve seen the OEM stuff turn green and fail.

    HRG

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1792892

    I agree that Steve has a very good method. My method is very similar except I use black RTV sealant followed with heat shrink tubing while the RTV is still wet. The goal is to keep all moisture from the connection. Marine tinned wire is much much better than auto grade wire, but I’d venture a guess that 99% of the trailers on the road are wired with automotive grade wire.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6687
    #1792907

    I solder
    Then cover solder with a clear silicon paste…aka dielectric grease.
    Then heat shrink over the joint, starting in the center and working towards the outside… Which pushes silicon out the shrink tubing, removing any possible entry of moisture.

    Rock solid!

    eyeguy507
    SE MN
    Posts: 5215
    #1792911

    These are the cats A$$
    You just heat the center up over a heat gun and the solder melts onto the wire and shrinks it tight.

    Attachments:
    1. Screenshot_20180821-141833_Google.jpg

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1792914

    Great advise Steve

    For short term stuff, I use
    3M SCOTCHLOK Quick Splice Wire Connector – Blue Gel – 14-18 AWG model # 804

    If you can find a trailer place or other local store, they seem to run about $1.25 each. Online I get them for about $.35 each

    Why any trailer or boat manufacture doesn’t use them just blows my mind. $70,000.00 boat and they use the cheapest dam connectors they can find.

    zooks
    Posts: 922
    #1792921

    Thanks for this Steve and for everyone else’s input, it’s posts like these that keep me active on sites like this. Since I’m learning to do lots of this stuff by myself the best I can, detailed info like this really cuts the learning curve down and helps me know where to avoid the common mistakes.
    waytogo

    philtickelson
    Inactive
    Mahtomedi, MN
    Posts: 1678
    #1792929

    I generally follow the exact same process Steve, with only one alteration. I will use heat shrink tubing and then put some of the electrical tape paint stuff over that to try and seal everything out even further.

    Then, I’ll paint the whole thing the same color as the original wire. After that, I’ll find a different section and paint some of the electrical tape stuff on it. That way, if someone tries to sabotage my trailer wiring, they won’t be able to find the splices!

    The last step is the most important, I will then not use/move/touch the trailer in any way shape or form for all eternity. Which ensures that the wires never get any added wear and tear. Trailer lights are still going strong!

    B-man
    Posts: 5801
    #1792975

    Great advise Steve

    For short term stuff, I use
    3M SCOTCHLOK Quick Splice Wire Connector – Blue Gel – 14-18 AWG model # 804

    If you can find a trailer place or other local store, they seem to run about $1.25 each. Online I get them for about $.35 each

    Why any trailer or boat manufacture doesn’t use them just blows my mind. $70,000.00 boat and they use the cheapest dam connectors they can find.

    …….

    Those things should be illegal…..

    I cringe every time I see one or hear somebody talking about them….

    Solder and shrink tube is 27 million times better.

    If it’s susceptible to the elements, I add some liquid electrical tape to really seal the deal.

    Mike Martine
    Inactive
    la crosse wis
    Posts: 258
    #1792982

    These are the cats A$$
    You just heat the center up over a heat gun and the solder melts onto the wire and shrinks it tight.

    . These do look like the cats a$$ , just ordered some . Tried most connectors and always have trouble eventually . Great thread Steve , thanks for posting

    eyeguy507
    SE MN
    Posts: 5215
    #1792985

    Pretty sure once everyone tries those solder seal connectors, every other type of marine style connector will be obselete.

    Timmy
    Posts: 1235
    #1792988

    My $.02 is to invest in a good butane soldering torch as well. I bought a $20 bernz-o-magic butane soldering pen and it is worth its weight in gold. It makes soldering a breeze.

    And liquid electrical tape under shrink wrap…… connections last forever….

    rmartin
    United States
    Posts: 1434
    #1793048

    Get the adhesive lined Heat Shrink Tubing. Should be no need for anything else between the tubing and joint.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1793051

    Maybe I have had good luck but all my lighting issues have never been caused by the connections. Always chewed wires, split wires, pinch points, falling off, etc.

    tim hurley
    Posts: 5829
    #1793486

    Have had my wires intentionally cut twice-both very good fishing lakes.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11640
    #1793509

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
    Great advise Steve

    For short term stuff, I use
    3M SCOTCHLOK Quick Splice Wire Connector – Blue Gel – 14-18 AWG model # 804

    If you can find a trailer place or other local store, they seem to run about $1.25 each. Online I get them for about $.35 each

    Why any trailer or boat manufacture doesn’t use them just blows my mind. $70,000.00 boat and they use the cheapest dam connectors they can find.

    …….

    Those things should be illegal…..

    I cringe every time I see one or hear somebody talking about them….

    Solder and shrink tube is 27 million times better.

    If it’s susceptible to the elements, I add some liquid electrical tape to really seal the deal.

    Totally agree. With all deference to 3M’s other fine products, Quick Splice connectors are the spawn of Satan.

    When I see any wiring job that uses those POS quickie splices, I immediately start tearing it apart and just assume that ever Quickie Slickie splice is bad.

    For an emergency repair that had to be done quickly, I might use one. For anything that has to last more than a day, no way.

    Grouse

    B-man
    Posts: 5801
    #1793544

    Something else related to the topic, soldering irons.

    Not too long ago, the tip of my soldering iron broke.

    The hardware store was closed and I didn’t have any replacement tips.

    In a pinch, I used my wood burner with the chisel tip.

    All I can say is wow! It gets the job done much faster than a fine tip iron, and you can really pour the solder to a big wire with it. The tip has a lot of mass and works great.

    It won’t work well for meticulous jobs like soldering a small circuit board, but for 95% of my jobs it’s the cat’s meow and a real time saver.

    617vs
    Posts: 8
    #1793640

    To those of you that don’t know about the gel filled 3m connectors, the are the best option on this thread. Heat shrink is not a good option in most instances, 1 pin hole or leakage of any kind is instant corrosion, it won’t dry out. I was in trailer wiring business for over 20 years, currently a veteran maintenance tech in a dairy plant, very wet conditions. I know my connectors

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1793663

    To those of you that don’t know about the gel filled 3m connectors, the are the best option on this thread. Heat shrink is not a good option in most instances, 1 pin hole or leakage of any kind is instant corrosion, it won’t dry out. I was in trailer wiring business for over 20 years, currently a veteran maintenance tech in a dairy plant, very wet conditions. I know my connectors

    I agree with the shrink tube. I have never seen one 100% waterproof. Considering they get submerged, they can easily fill with water and not dry out; leading to quick corrosion.

    The couple guys above that knocked the quick connects were probably too quick to cast judgement without seeing that they are gel-filled.

    I’ve been using scotch locks and other gel filled connectors for over 30+ years that are completely submerged for days or weeks at a time. Right tool for the job when used correctly.

    However, if you understand how DC current works, the soldered connection creates the most surface area and will have the least amount of impedance

    Ivan Knapp
    Posts: 76
    #1793665

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>B-man wrote:</div>

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
    Great advise Steve

    For short term stuff, I use
    3M SCOTCHLOK Quick Splice Wire Connector – Blue Gel – 14-18 AWG model # 804

    If you can find a trailer place or other local store, they seem to run about $1.25 each. Online I get them for about $.35 each

    Why any trailer or boat manufacture doesn’t use them just blows my mind. $70,000.00 boat and they use the cheapest dam connectors they can find.

    …….

    Those things should be illegal…..

    I cringe every time I see one or hear somebody talking about them….

    Solder and shrink tube is 27 million times better.

    If it’s susceptible to the elements, I add some liquid electrical tape to really seal the deal.

    Totally agree. With all deference to 3M’s other fine products, Quick Splice connectors are the spawn of Satan.

    When I see any wiring job that uses those POS quickie splices, I immediately start tearing it apart and just assume that ever Quickie Slickie splice is bad.

    For an emergency repair that had to be done quickly, I might use one. For anything that has to last more than a day, no way.

    Grouse
    The best thing about the use of this connector is, if you have a wiring problem they make it easy to find the trouble. Just cut them out and you are good to go

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