Looking for damaged rods

Does anyone have any rods with broken tips or are damaged they want to get rid of? I need to build a new power cork reamer for hollowing out rod handles and have not been able to find anything right now. I hate to buy a new rod just to cut it up.

PM’d

John I am looking to do the same thing. I bought the sandpaper tape but need a old blank also? PM me

Thanks

7ml triumph, 66m premier, 610mxf elite tech, 66m avid, 7ml cabelas im6, few other non brands all with tips broken.

Might keep the avid and elite for warranty, but idk.

Wish I could blame em on the kids but not a single one was their fault

Those rods would work great Nick. I don’t care what the brand or action is since I am cutting them up. With you having that many broken rods remind me not to let you use my rods.

I recall about 10 years or so ago that Cabelas sold broken and damaged rods in the Bargain Cave for like $5 each. Haven’t checked lately to see if they still do however. May be an option.

I need to build a couple reamers myself. I’ve got a good assortment of rod sections but what is the best method to add grit? What grade grit is most popular?

Garage sale season is just around the corner.

Huntindave wrote:

What grade grit is most popular?

36 to 60 grit from what I have been reading. 60 grit is easier to find at a lower cost. Some also apply a sand material called cork grit. I will have to take a look at the bargain cave at Cabelas and I know garage sale season is almost here. But I would like to have this rod built for my son before the fishing season starts. I do plan on hitting up garage sales to find other options throughout the summer.

Huntindave wrote:

what is the best method to add grit?

Don’t use the Abrasive Cutting Grit granules that are glued to a reamer. The sharp bits can break off in your cork handle and then scratch the crap out of your blank when you slide it on.

Much better to use the rolls of reamer abrasive. I have used 1″ belt sander belts for a big reamer for musky rods. 36 and 60 grit will get it done. Anything finer is too slow.

You can usually find cheap rods at garage sales, Good Will and Salvation Army stores.

Like the Flex Coat video, it’s really slick to have a long reamer on your drill. It really helps to build a reamer that has about the same taper and diameter as the rods you build. Most commercial reamers have too much taper.

Contact cement is the way to go. Epoxy lets go when it warms up during a heavy reaming session.

Here’s a tip: Unless you are reaming cork out for a very small blank, it really pays to drill out the cork before you ream the final fit. I have a few reverse pilot bits. Some I bought, some I made. It will save you a ton of time (and dust) if you build many rods!!!

https://flexcoat.com/shop/reel-seat-arbors/reverse-pilot-bits

I believe you meant to add the link to the arbor pilot bits. I think they work better if there is a hole already in the handle.

Arbor Pilot Bits

There are cheaper sets out there but I don’t have the links on me right now.

Not sure what you are referring to, but the link I gave is for the Flex Coat REVERSE pilot bits. It is a long shaft, modified spade bit. You slide your grip onto the shaft and then pull the bit through. Watch the video. =) Reverse pilot bits in use starting at about 1:40.

Thanks for the info everyone.

White Ranger wrote:

but the link I gave is for the Flex Coat REVERSE pilot bits. It is a long shaft, modified spade bit. You slide your grip onto the shaft and then pull the bit through.

Sorry, my mistake. That sounds/looks slick.