braid question

  • joc
    Western and Central, NY
    Posts: 440
    #1656691

    I use Sufix 832. I like to 20# test in order to allow the bait to sink and to cast far. Mostly I use overhead cast. I cast baits up to 3.2 oz. but most of my baits are 2.2 oz. or less. I know this is lighter lne than many pike fisherman use what do you think?

    Dutchboy
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 16656
    #1656706

    I’m not that concerned with line test unless I’m chasing Trophy class fish. For most run of the mill Pike fishing I’ll fish a 10# diameter braid with a steel leader. I will go heavy if fishing rocks. Casting I like to fish mono, i’ll fish braid when trolling. For me the most important thing is to have the reel dialed in to throw the baits and then have the drag set properly to get them in.

    Allan Davis
    Carlton, MN
    Posts: 415
    #1656707

    Joc is this just for pike and you havery to think about what kind of structure you fish. It you fish thick weeds it is very tough to pull big pike out of weeds and it will have a lot of tension. If you are casting deeper weed lines where fish will not get into those big weed clumps you would be fine. I like 50 pound and I can still cast far. I believe having the right Rod is key for longer casts. Pair that with a decent reel and your in business. I would hate to loose a fish of a life time just by not having the right pound test. Although if only catch 3 pounders your probably good. A lot of places you go that’s all you catch but if your looking at more trophy size I suggest beefing up a bit

    joc
    Western and Central, NY
    Posts: 440
    #1656728

    I have had the rare pike get stuck in the weeds, but usually by the time the weeds are thick the bigger fish are usually off the deep edge of the weed line or drop off in 12 to 20+ FOW and the fight is in open water.

    My main concern was would 20# braid (Sufix) break when casting baits up to 3.3 oz.

    I got a nice moderately heavy fast action 8′ rod for the job from St Croix.

    Thank you

    Dutchboy
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 16656
    #1656740

    I don’t think it will break. However I have found with braid you always reel up to the same point and then cast again. So if there is any imperfection on that last eye it becomes a constent wear point. Thats where you can have problems. I always got in the habit of of retying every hour or so back when I was casting for Bass all the time. That was with mono and it was relatively cheap to do.I would suggest you do the same especially if you are throwing that heavy a bait. Those aren’t cheap anymore. Nothing worse then hearing that “ting” and watching your bait fly away. doah

    muskie-tim
    Rush City MN
    Posts: 838
    #1656809

    A good way to check for flaws in the rod tip is to run a q-tip through it. If the fuzz catches, replace the tip. Much cheaper than that lure you will lose.

    joc
    Western and Central, NY
    Posts: 440
    #1656871

    Thanks for the info guys, Not to get off topic however other than storing your hook in the guide (big nono) what can cause a guide to deteriorate?

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4286
    #1656880

    I use 20# power pro braid and have never had an issue – the pike in my avatar came casting that with a steel leader. I’ve used the same setup and fished tarpon with an FC leader. No monsters, but Tarpon in the 20-30# class.

    I think with the right rod/reel combo that’s plenty of line for even big pike. I use a 7′ med/heavy action with a Penn 3500 spinning reel. Most people would say that’s a pretty light setup but it’s always worked for me.

    I don’t throw a lot of heavy spinners, though. Mainly swim baits and raps.

    muskie-tim
    Rush City MN
    Posts: 838
    #1656903

    Thanks for the info guys, Not to get off topic however other than storing your hook in the guide (big nono) what can cause a guide to deteriorate?

    A couple things come to mind:
    banging your swivel on the leader into the tip
    getting knocked around in the boat or rod locker
    getting stepped on

    I hook my lures on the reel handle to protect the tips. Use the hook keeper when it is just the leader. The goal, keep those sharp hooks away from the rod.

    joc
    Western and Central, NY
    Posts: 440
    #1656910

    Actually I wasn’t concerned with the size of the fish.

    But would the braid be stressed while casting “upon the clicking closed of the bail” when using 20# test Sufix and Jerkbaits up to 3.3 oz. Dutchboy addressed this concern.

    Again thank you just provided for clarity,

    patk
    Nisswa, MN
    Posts: 1997
    #1657103

    But would the braid be stressed while casting “upon the clicking closed of the bail” when using 20# test Sufix and Jerkbaits up to 3.3 oz. Dutchboy addressed this concern.

    I had the opposite happen. 10 or so years back it was a new rod/reel/30# braid. Had a pretty cast and then the lure just kept going. Suspending lure but on a leader so it sunk to the bottom. Was retying rather frequently and the spool hadn’t engaged when the line broke. Total mystery.

    Buddy I was with told a similar story and that’s why he went back to mono. Next trip I was back on mono and still there. Been wondering lately how much that was a fluke or if things are better 10 years later.

    patk
    Nisswa, MN
    Posts: 1997
    #1657648

    Should add that I’m going sort of going to give braid another shot.

    Already started my 2017 goals and catching my first musky is on it. Last month bought a new rod/reel and spooled with 80# powerpro. We’ll see how that goes

    Probably still use 20# mono for my pike trips though. Most of the time I prefer the stretch in mono. Only time I don’t is when you get hit at the end of a long cast, hook sets suffer.

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