Braid, mono, flouro…swivel, tie direct, modified albright…

I’m assuming I’ll get many different thoughts and points of view on this, which is great. I’m not sure there’s a perfect answer for all but we all find what works for us. In the spirit of always learning and to each their own, I look forward to the thoughts shared.

Note: I fish mainly for Walleye/perch, some other panfish (Crappie, Bluegill) , in 4-30 FOW with some stained and some clear.

Mono
*I don’t use this anymore. Other than low cost I don’t see any advantage.

Braid
*As I asked about on the general forum, I am switching most summer rods (jigging, trolling, slip bobber) over to braid connected to a swivel with a flouro leader. Now wondering about doing the same with my ice combos. I would keep a few flouro only for outside fishing to eliminate the braid water retention/freeze issue, but inside the shack/hub maybe this is the way to go? Sensitivity, strength, swivel to eliminate line twist, flouro leader for invisibility.

Flouro
*Last few years I’ve transitioned all my combos (jigging rods with tungsten’s and spoons, deadsticks with baitfeeders) to Seagur IceX to a swivel to a flouro leader (2lb to 6lb with either 4lb or 8lb leader). Impressed with the strength, durability, low memory, and less stretch than mono. Not the easiest to see for knots but that is probably good for not being seen in the water. My thought is that if flouro has the strength/durability/invisibility already why mess with braid. Cost is similar, one less connection/knot…

Overthinking…certainly. Joys of prepping for the winter season. I asked this question in another forum , but while there’s some crossover there’s also some that don’t visit both.

I have been tracking and testing out the tensile strength of the lines I’ve used over the years. As so far, I’m a cheapie so my lines do end up staying on the reels for years. And that line tensile strength testing on following up after years is more important. I only replace after the line has less than 80% of original strength. Some findings on my endeavor…

Straight mono…oftens needs to be replaced after one year. As it seems to lose tensile strength and often develops some horrendous line memory or line deformations just sitting on the reel spool.

Straight fluorocarbon…weakest of line tensile strength. They often break right at box listed test# or under that. Like the sinking benefits, especially with very light lures under 1/32 oz. Does have better vibration transfer over that of straight monoline.

Copolymer nylons…better than straight mono in various scenarios, but choosing the right characteristics is what it’s all about. Much longer life over that of straight mono.

Copolymer fluorocarbon coated lines…has a lot of good improvements over that of straight mono. The best benefit is probably very long life.

Braids/superlines…Fused Fireline has always been one of my favorites. Sure it flattens or ribbons out eventually but as long as it’s not fuzzy I will continue to use it. The latter manufacture improved process has also produced improved versions of it. Microbraids of 8 strands are wonderful lines, but they generally do give up a little bit of line strength in comparison to the standard 4 strands braids.

Ester lines…I haven’t used a straight ester line, just a 50% mixed braided version. While not as strong as PE lines, it’s showing much better durability and even better spool behavior. I’m seeing a reduction of loose loops on reel spools that typical PE braids will obscurely acquire. The effect is true on open water casting too.

The innovations are always improving so nothing is definitive.

Awesome, Bob. What kind of braid do you like the best? Least absorption, assuming strength/sensitivity are similar…

I guess there is always the question of cost and durability with anything discussed like this. I have learned that better quality does matter even though sometimes it comes at a cost.

I do like the ice magic mono for my panfish jigging usually 3 pound is my go to and I direct tie with no leader or anything. I have not had memory issues or hook set issues even in up to 20 FOW> By no means is this line expensive so re spool every year I have about 8-10 panfish rods.

For my I FISH pro or set rods I run 6-8 pound Suffix Ice Magic. I have about 3-5 rods of this and don’t use Ice Version just regular open water line and it seems to work.

For jigging walleye outside I try to use braid to a leader I typically use, once again, open water suffix 832 and then fluro leader but with water absorption being an issue at temps sometimes I just stick with straight fluro for that too.

If I am in a shelter then of course braid is way to go it is has most sensitivity and no stretch.

acarroline wrote:

Awesome, Bob. What kind of braid do you like the best? Least absorption, assuming strength/sensitivity are similar…

I’m still a fan of Berkley Fireline, especially the Ultra 8 braid version. YGK G-Soul Upgrade X-8 is very impressive freshly spooled. However it doesn’t seem to has as much life as the Fireline Ultra 8. I like the YGK G-Soul SS112 Sinking Braid far better. It was one of the braids that I had a lot of uncertainties towards it being 50% Ester, but after using it has the best line behavior characteristics on the reel spool. However if it’s a cost for performance, I’d say Diawa J-Braid x8 offers the best value. All of these have better performance over that of Suffix 832 Advance braid in the small diameters that’s under 20# braid listed.

Walleye jigging, pitching or vertical get fireline crystal modified Albright to 6-8# XT.

Rigging on the 76lf 8# mono

76mmf casting/shallow trolling crank rod braid to mono

Panfish #3 mono, have a braid on a rod as well and feel I bring more fish to boat with the mono, hook retention not catching.

Fireline crystal does the best for freezing near freezing conditions and lasts.

Under these techniques swivels are for guys who can’t tie knots lol

Noticed this is ice forum, ugh, changes things entirely but I’m holding onto soft water so I’m sticking w my answers