Boat Winterization

Well its about that time to put the boat away for the winter :s What are some of the things you all do to winterize your rig so she’s ready to go in the spring with no problems? I bought a boat over the summer and will be putting her away soon and want to ensure I get her winterized properly! Am I better off taking it to a shop and having them do it or is it fairly easy and I should be able to do it myself? Thanks!!

-Change lower unit oil.
-Run the carb dry by unhooking the fuel.
-Shoot some fogging oil into the spark plug holes and crank the motor over a few times.
-change the oil and filter if 4 stroke.
-treat gas if you are into that, i run the tank low and just add new fuel next time I use the boat.
-pull prop and check for line on shaft.
-change impeller every few years.
-check/repack wheel bearings on trailer.
-check fluid level in all batteries, make sure they are on the charger or moved into fish house.

Great points Mark! I will add one thing and this depends on where you store the boat. I typically store mine outdoors but two winters ago I had a mice issue (big time!) but last year I stuffed dryer sheets all around the boat and poured carpet fresh powder everywhere AND put moth balls in some entrance areas and not a single mouse! AND my boat smelled really nice in the Spring!

In addition to Mark’s excellent list above, I’d add to make sure everything is absolutely dry. Open all compartments, take everything out, and let them air dry. Leave compartments propped open during storage.

Also, I personally remove all batteries and store them in my heated shop. If you don’t remove them, I would leave access so you can top them up at regular intervals. A battery cutoff switch is also an essential to prevent battery drain.

Also, if storing outside, a heavy duty tarp over the top of a frame that has enough pitch for snow to slide all the way off is essential. ANY area on the tarp or cover where water can pool, will eventually allow water in and then you’ll have a mess.

Agree about keeping mice out. Mothballs work well (place in a plastic container so they don’t come in direct contact with carpet).

Grouse

Just to be sure, your boat has an outboard, right? I/Os are a little different ballgame.

Thanks for all the great info guys, yes it is an outboard. I’m assuming mothballs are something you can buy at the store? lol that might be a dumb question. Also is it better to get the oil changed now rather than in the spring? It is a 4 stroke Merc. I’ve got a decent cover for it but another tarp over the top wouldnt hurt being it will be stored outside.

Yes, I would change the oil prior to storage.

I have been waiting to change the crank-case oil in the spring on my Merc 4-stroke for the past few years. More out of laziness than science. I definitely change the lower unit in fall just in case there is any water in it but I know a guy that hasnt changed his Merc lower unit oil in 9 years and never has a problem….

Thanks guys, i’ll be putting her away pretty soon here. I see the over night temps are dipping into the 30′ and 40’s here soon, wont be long and we’ll be icefishing!!

Chance R. wrote:

I’ve got a decent cover for it but another tarp over the top wouldnt hurt being it will be stored outside.

Stacking tarps is not a great idea, IMO. Eventually, water gets between the two, and then you have mold.

One good tarp that fits, over a frame that allows the water/snow to slide all the way off without pooling is the way to go IMO. I accomplished this by building what amounts to a 14 foot long sawhorse that sat in the boat and provided support for the tarp from bow to above the outboard. The height of the “sawhorse” was calculated so that snow would slide right off and over the rail, so there was no “pooling”. Within a couple of days of most snows, it would have all slid off.

suzuki wrote:

but I know a guy that hasnt changed his Merc lower unit oil in 9 years and never has a problem….

There really isn’t the same need to change lower unit lube as there is engine oil. Since the lower unit lube isn’t exposed to combustion by-products and doesn’t get exposed to heat, it’s not nearly under the stress that engine oil is.

Also, keeping in mind that the average boat owner puts aobut 10=15 engine hours per year on his rig these days. There just isn’t the same need to change lower unit lube, the main reason is just to check for water intrusion.

Grouse

Go to Menads or any farm store get a product called Cab Fresh. Keeps rodents out an smells good too. It’s around 11 bucks for 4 pouches. I put 1 beside each battery that’s where the most concentration of exposed wiring is. The other two I hang under the seats. So far no mice.

If your merc is carberated by all means run the carbs dry but if it’s fuel injected don’t run the engine out of fuel, or you risk damaging the high pressure fuel pump. As long as you stabilize your fuel Before you run it you will be fine. Don’t forget to grease the engine, you will want to make sure you get enough grease in to push all the water out.