boat taco

  • fishingstar
    central mn / starlake
    Posts: 458
    #1878018

    My son bought a Alumacraft 1648 Jon boat this summer. We were taking the floor out and found the ribs have cracked.
    the previous owner had tried to repair it by welding 1/8 flats on the side of the ribs but they have also cracked.
    I was thinking about fitting 90 degree angle aluminum 1/4. that would be raped a round each rib and stitch weld it.
    Now I’m thinking that might not stop the flexing.
    looking for someone that knows more about aluminum I think it’going to crack again.

    thanks for any in put

    Dan

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4400
    #1878019

    Can you post some pics?

    fishingstar
    central mn / starlake
    Posts: 458
    #1878020

    this is there fix

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_1242.jpg

    2. IMG_1241.jpg

    3. IMG_1240.jpg

    fishingstar
    central mn / starlake
    Posts: 458
    #1878026

    It doesn’t show up but the added aluminum strip they added has a crack in the same spot the rib is craked

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4400
    #1878027

    I’m not a great aluminum mind but I would think your idea of adding angle iron and then tieing it all together with the floor would work.

    Any idea why it flexed that much in the first place?

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3092
    #1878028

    Has this hull been modified in any way? (seats added/removed)

    Many folks have removed center seats from flat bottom boats in order to achieve an open floor plan. The risk in doing so, is once the seat has been removed, the hull is not as structurally sound and the ribs are usually the weak point.

    You are probably right about the very real possibility of continued cracking.

    fishingstar
    central mn / starlake
    Posts: 458
    #1878030

    Did some looking online and found this is common with this wide and age(1988)of boat. nothing has been modified on the boat.

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4951
    #1878031

    Looks like they used the crap 6061/6063 flatstock from Menards, HD, etc. If it were me I may try and find some structural aluminum like 7075. If you can find some 3/16 C-channel that would fit over the rib and fully span side to side. Cutting a slight taper on each end to get it to more closely seat to the bottom then stitch weld every 6-9 inches.

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1878032

    Agree with munchy on higher grade channel over the top.

    fishingstar
    central mn / starlake
    Posts: 458
    #1878033

    that is what I was try to do with the angle iron. Having angle iron on both sides and a gap in the middle and weld all three pieces down the middle and down on the floor

    fishingstar
    central mn / starlake
    Posts: 458
    #1878045

    Talking to my other son ( he is a very knowledgeable auto body man) he said aluminum does not give like like steel will. He thinks my fix will crack again.
    I didn’t ask him about the channel.
    How would 1/4x1x1 steel riveted to the rib every 4″ all the way across the bottom of the boat. he was thinking I need it to stop flexing.

    Deuces
    Posts: 5270
    #1878049

    FW is Mexican so I’ve had a few. ..

    Matt Moen
    South Minneapolis
    Posts: 4400
    #1878053

    FW is Mexican so I’ve had a few. ..

    I see what you did there.

    tangler
    Inactive
    Posts: 812
    #1878090

    Mmmm musky cheek tacos on the boat, what could be better?

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