I have an 87 Alumacraft lunker v16 dlx that I am redoing the floor and interior on. The flooring that came out of the boat was 1/2 plywood. My question is should I just go back with 1/2 or maybe bump it up to a 5/8? I have heard arguments for both and just curious what you would do. Thanks
If half worked for that many years I would see no reason to change.
Whatever thickness you settle on make certain you purchase marine grade plywood, not just plain old treated. The treatment in much of todays plywood can raise all kinds of heck with the aluminum in a boat while marine grade will be fully compatible.
There may be tight spaces where the extra 1/8″ of the thicker wood is too much. Good luck with the project. Pics are always welcome!
Starboard?
Starboard?
Would cost more than the boat.
My boat used 5/8”. In your case, it might be sturdier but a bit heavier.
When I did mine, I matched what I took out. If you are going to go through all the work to replace it, I would recommend marine plywood. I has fewer voids.
I would also seal it well before carpeting and installing it.
There is an concoction call “Old Timers Formula” that is a mix of spar varnish, linseed oil, and turpentine That has a proven track record.
The best information source I have found is the “Tin Boat” forum.
https://tinboats.net/forum/index.php
Here is my ’81 Lund after a complete rebuild.
boat_side.jpg
I’d use a good 1/2 marine grade or a a/c grade,4 ply atleast. and then use a resin and coat all sides, and if you can drill all your holes first then glass it!
I have an 87 Alumacraft lunker v16 dlx that I am redoing the floor and interior on. The flooring that came out of the boat was 1/2 plywood. My question is should I just go back with 1/2 or maybe bump it up to a 5/8? I have heard arguments for both and just curious what you would do. Thanks
If you want to look at my complete rebuild of my ’87 V16 DLX you can find it on tinboats.net, which is a great forum that focuses on boat rebuilds. Let me know if you have any questions, as I took mine down to its bones. Added extra aluminum for reinforcement and replaced the main flooring with 1/2″ marine grade with multiple coats of spar varnish and marine vinyl. Compartments and their lids are 3/4″.
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=43184&p=435453#p435453
No need to bump up the thickness. I did a 14′ Lunker few years back somewhere in the alumacraft threads.
Things I know now I wish I would have known. #1 is the tin boats forum. Learn from others there.
Spar varnish, I chose to use Thompson’s water seal on all my boards after they were cut. Didn’t do poorly just think this would have been better.
Buy wire at https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/
Did you know some rivet tools aren’t strong enough for stainless rivets 
I do now.
Couple things I did that I would do again. #1 run extra wire and conduit/pvc from stearn to bow before putting the floor down even if you don’t think you’ll need it.
I did not buy treated plywood. Supposedly the green treatments oxidize with aluminum. Also saved a few bucks by not buying marine grade. Ended up selling the boat a couple years later but worked good when I had it.
If you want to beef up the strength of the floor, add a couple more cross members
to reduce the “bounce” of the floor rather than increasing the thickness of the plywood flooring. Worked well for me.
Pete
patk wrote:
Couple things I did that I would do again. #1 run extra wire and conduit/pvc from stearn to bow before putting the floor down even if you don’t think you’ll need it.
Also, throw a pair of pull strings in the conduit for applications requiring wire different than what you installed.
If you want to beef up the strength of the floor, add a couple more cross members
to reduce the “bounce” of the floor rather than increasing the thickness of the plywood flooring. Worked well for me.
Pete
Thanks for the input guys. I think I will be going with the 1/2 inch plywood. I will post some pics when I can.
Just wanted to chime in that when I red-did my Lunker floor a few years ago, I got the plywood, carpet, and rivets from Hallberg Marine.
Sorry to resurrect a little bit older thread. Sintra. Expanded PVC. Lighter and will never rot. Did this with my old 14’ Grizz jet sled. I’ll do it with my new Kingfisher. In my opinion, there’s never a reason to permanently fix anything in a boat with wood these days. Buy once, cry once. Redo it once. Super easy to work with.
Sorry to resurrect a little bit older thread. Sintra. Expanded PVC. Lighter and will never rot. Did this with my old 14’ Grizz jet sled. I’ll do it with my new Kingfisher. In my opinion, there’s never a reason to permanently fix anything in a boat with wood these days. Buy once, cry once. Redo it once. Super easy to work with.
How thick does it come? A quick search only showed up to 6mm (1/4″)
Are they even making boats with wood floors anymore? I thought it was all aluminum now. Wood seems like a last century material considering it’s likely to eventually rot and then weaken.
Up to 3/4” for sure, in 1/8” increments. I used 3/4” exclusively. If you can fit 5/8”, I’d do it.
I had to order from an industrial plastic place to get a 4’x8’ sheet. Was $270 back in 2014. Bet those places would love a cash sale right now!
Cuts with a circ saw / table saw super clean and easy with a wood blade, too.
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