Boat buckle angle

  • nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1639790

    What’s the max angle you would mount these things at? I’m over the 30degrees they recommend to put the universal bracket in for.

    What’s the purpose of not angled to much? To much stress on buckle in event of boat sliding off?

    Strap down, and strap where it would be placed

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_20160915_174520129.jpg

    2. IMG_20160915_174617421.jpg

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1639803

    Do you have room to move the winch post forward on the tong?

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1639808

    Wouldn’t that cause potential issue with the roller hanging off back with the transducer?

    Ill check either way in a lil bit.

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3791
    #1639822

    nhamm,in your second picture,I can see where it will chafe on the corner of the boats hull where it makes a step,thats not going to do your hull any good,and most likely,it will cut the strap very quickly.

    the other reason for the correct angle is so that you are not putting too much stress on the tie down where it comes out of the mounting area.

    if your transducer is going to interfere with a roller,you will either have to move the ‘ducer,or if you can,move the roller bracket ahead.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1639827

    Problem is the boat has that SST transom, without it it would line up nicely. Can’t imagine trying to move the whole system up, big PIA.

    I can deal with chaffing straps, that’s preventable. Buckle whipping off because the angle is to great that’s not what I want if so is the case.

    Any reason a guy couldn’t put in new u-bolts on the side of transom, or even bolted on top of the ledge as shown? I have 41″ from the buckle I can play with per instructions.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1639828

    I would think about adding an extension to the frame so the buckle unit is further back. Either a permanent extension or one that can retracted during the loading/unloading process, then extended for tiedown use. (similar to a receiver hitch and pin system)
    One could have a stop welded on the slider in such a manner as to prevent theft of the sliding portion while the empty trailer sits in the parking lot.

    I think if you start trying to re-positon the boat on the trailer, you will run into a whole bunch of issues.

    New U-bolts may work just fine depending on how the inside of the boat is braced and how beefy it is on those sidewalls.

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3791
    #1639829

    personally I would not put it on the side as you will be putting the stress on the side of the hull and not the transom,now,if you can actually bolt into the transom itself,that should work okay.

    coming over the top presents the issue of paint/hull wear unless you can come up with a good mat of some sort to prevent said wear.

    if you are worried about buckles coming loose,get some heavy duty velcro to wrap around the buckle to hold it closed,you may have to stitch the velcro to the strap to keep from losing it.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1639835

    Sorry Sheldon I should have explained further.

    The buckle is the automatic buckles that ratchet themselves. Trying to be done with the winch ones. Press a button, hook it, done.

    If I did something to the ledge, it would maybe be some plate that sticks out that allows the hook to hang right off edge with no wear to strap. That whole backend is transom, with .125 gauge holding it up. Everything ive researched into says that entire thing is built like a tank. Looking down under the back bench area, I’m no expert, but she looks beefy.

    I guess my question is, why not an angle over 30? Is it strictly the tension on the strap that may rub on boat?

    The way I look at it, if its straight vertical, the safety chain is going to allow most boats to fall back enough from the strap being vertical that the angle would be there anyways in case of failure. Where mine in theory is already at load you could say, and wont slide much at all? Wrong?

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3791
    #1639837

    think about this Nick,the longer or the steeper the angle,the less leverage or holding power it has,so your straps will lose their holding power as they need to be as straight as possible to do their job effectively which is holding the boat down.

    if that thing is built like you say it is,run with it,the worst you could do is bend something,hopefully you would catch it soon enough before any real damage could occur.

    also remember you are only trying to keep the boat from sliding side to side and bouncing up and down while trailering,it wont take much to accomplish that.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1639843

    Gonna return the $15 drill bit I bought for the 7/16″ holes I would have needed to move, and just pick up the $15 bracket doah I didn’t even bother looking into the cost of it bc I figured they’d bend ya over. Will move the buckle out a tad, and give er the angle needed, win win.

    Thanks for advice toast

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Posts: 0
    #1639866

    There is not really much stress on the tie down straps, gravity does most of the work. The tie down’s are just to keep the boat secure, you don’t even have to put much pressure on them, just real snug is all you need.

    I wouldn’t hesitate to mount them as you have shown.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1639999

    There is not really much stress on the tie down straps, gravity does most of the work. The tie down’s are just to keep the boat secure, you don’t even have to put much pressure on them, just real snug is all you need.

    Secure as in ALL LOADS MUST BE SECURED. The straps are there to prevent your boat from becoming a missile if you have to stop suddenly or are in an accident.

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Posts: 0
    #1640055

    Right, that’s why I said secure

    john23
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 2578
    #1640143

    I’ve seen tie down straps with pads on them to avoid the chafing issue. My suggestion would be to buy or make some pads for the straps. Sounds like you might have already figured out a solution, though.

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1640448

    Update.

    $13 brackets made all the difference IMO. Very confident in how it’s sitting now. Available right next to the buckles in store.

    Thanks again fellas toast

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_20160919_180617820.jpg

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1640450

    And if you don’t pay attention to lil ones they will stick screwdrivers in everything. Hope she didn’t get to the starter keyhole doah

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_20160919_180600423_HDR.jpg

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1640455

    Oh for crying out loud….

    Don’t confuse dielectric grease for marine silicone when putting on transducer smash smash smash smash

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3791
    #1640462

    Looks good nhamm!! good job!! toast

    now,as far as the dielectric grease,wait until you are my age,but at least I have yet to confuse my toothpaste with preparation H. shock

    the little one with the screwdriver,by all means,encourage her to learn how to use any and all tools,she may save your butt someday!!

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1640470

    Looking good! You will love the ease of the boat buckles!

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1640471

    now,as far as the dielectric grease,wait until you are my age,but at least I have yet to confuse my toothpaste with preparation H.

    rotflol

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1640523

    Update.

    $13 brackets made all the difference IMO. Very confident in how it’s sitting now. Available right next to the buckles in store.

    Looks good! That’s actually the first time I’ve seen those brackets work out for an installation.

    HRG

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1640555

    How about some pics of the new rig?!

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1640627

    Needs to get rigged up first, plus there’s a pile of wood blocking it whistling

    SuperDave1959
    Harrisville, UT
    Posts: 2816
    #1641493

    My understanding of the back straps is the angle should be forward or vertical. Having the strap angled back doesn’t really prevent the boat from moving forward if you were to slam on the brakes. I’m probably wrong but always assumed the bow stop and ratchet kept the boat from sliding back and the back straps kept the boat from going forward.

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