Bleeding motorhome brakes

  • STEVES
    New Richmond, Wi
    Posts: 724
    #1693967

    I have a 1998 coachman mirada with a 1997 ford f53 chassis. Had some issues with the brakes sticking last summer, so I put on new calipers and hoses. I’ve bleed the likes(front and back) multiple times with unsatisfying result. It seems the pedal has a lot of free play. The camper does stop but it would be iffy if we had to stop fast. Am I missing something? Any help is appreciated.

    Tom Sawvell
    Inactive
    Posts: 9559
    #1693971

    Are you certain the master cylinder isn’t hanging up or bleeding between the front and rear side?

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3789
    #1693972

    sent you a pm on how to bleed them backwards,hope this helps !

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1693974

    What kind of hoses you put in?

    STEVES
    New Richmond, Wi
    Posts: 724
    #1693991

    Are you certain the master cylinder isn’t hanging up or bleeding between the front and rear side?

    I am not… everything was in working order last year. The brakes worked, i guess, too good last year. They stuck. How would one tell if the master cylinder was hanging up?

    STEVES
    New Richmond, Wi
    Posts: 724
    #1693993

    What kind of hoses you put in?

    Half rubber and half steel. Steel goes on the caliper. Is that what you’re asking?

    Iowaboy1
    Posts: 3789
    #1693999

    I am sure what Tom meant was if the master cylinder was bypassing internally from being worn out.
    all of the bleeding in the world wont fix that as the pedal will either fade readily or not build any pressure at all,you will have to just replace it.
    if you had a good firm pedal before you replaced the hoses and calipers it most likely just needs bled out.

    those large long chassis that are used in a motor home,bus,or truck are a pain to bleed by their nature,ie,the master cylinder is high in the system,and the lines are much longer and its almost impossible to get the air pumped out of the system the old fashioned way because air will always rise to the top in a fluid system of any type and you can hardly pump the pedal fast enough to outrun it.

    this is where a power bleeder really comes in handy but one of those things are expensive if you dont need one everyday as in a shop.
    reverse bleeding is much easier and it can be done with a pump type oil can that cost around twenty bucks.

    mxskeeter
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts: 3772
    #1694005

    Check calipers AND make sure bleeders are at the top of the calipers. Have seen where left and right sides get reversed and bleeder ends up on the bottom of the caliper. Since air rises you will never get all the air out if the bleeder is on the lower side of the caliper.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.