I have the original Precision Trolling Bible and it has dive curves for most of the Rapalas that I use and on some, I’ve bought the stickers that are available if they aren’t in the original book. I find the dive curves to be accurate if the line diameter indicated on the curves is used. I refer to the data fairly often for almost every crank bait type that I troll (which is a lot). If the curves are perfect or not, I don’t really care. I just want to make sure I have my crank in the zone. I’ll adjust from there.
At least in the case of Precision Trolling, it’s not the manufacturers that tested the various crank baits on the market for their unique dive curves, it was Mark Romanack, Dr. Steven Holt and Tom Irwin.
I troll with both Rapala and Berkley crank baits.
I find Rapala crank baits to be among the highest quality of any on the market with great finishes and generally, they run straight out of the box. They have high quality hooks as well, but their downfall is that they can be pricey. On the plus side, they are some real fish catchers
The majority of Berkley crank baits that I’ve used need tuning either right out of the box or after catching a fish or two. Their hooks are also of poor quality. The two things thing about them though is that they catch fish and they cost quite a bit less than Rapalas.
While each brand has it’s strengths and weaknesses, both brands catch fish and I’ll continue to use both and buy more of both. Some days the walleyes want Barkley crank baits while on other days they want Rapala crank baits. Some days they want neither brand and want a Salmo, Wally Diver, Lindy, Matzuo, Strike King or some other brand or crank bait, each with it’s own strengths and weaknesses.
Whether walleyes want a different action, different size, different profile, different color, or rattles or no rattles is hard to predict on some days, but trying to figure out what the walleyes want and putting a pattern together is part of the fun of trolling crank baits IMO.