Batteries, what where

Ok so I’ve got a 1648 Jon. 12V bow mount 55lb thrust trolling motor. Running/anchor lights. May add an interior LED at a later point, just to put some light on the floor should I need it. That’s not set. Electric start motor. Fish finder. Will add a bildge pump in as well.

I need new batteries all the way around ($ouch$).

What do you guys recommend wiring to what?

Everything is getting rewired and re-ran in the boat. It’s a cluttered mess of wires right now. Will likely add a switch panel.

I’ve always ran lights, trolling motor, and depth finder off of one and gas motor electric start off the other. One in the stern for the motor and one in the bow for the other things.

I’d ideally like to have all batteries up front for weight purposes, but not sure I can effectively run cranking battery from the front of the boat.

I’ll be honest, if it wasn’t evident, it was always half-***ed. I’d like to do it right this time so I’m happy with it, it’s not cluttered, and I’m not untangling or guessing which wires I need to attach to the terminals.

I’ve always kept my accessories on the starting batteries to avoid interference from the trolling motor. Maybe it’s a outdated practice.

Makes sense to me. I’d always worried that if my accessories drained the battery, at least it wasn’t my cranking battery.

It’s sad that I’ve had a boat for 15 years and don’t know which way is the “proper” way.

I run my cranking battery up front also. The key is to use large enough wire. The most economical way to do that is to buy a set of jumper cables that have large diameter wires and are long enough. I got mine for $20. at the auto parts store they will charge by the foot for regular battery cable and for 20ft it would have cost me close to $100 and not looked as good as they are separate then whare the jumper cables are made together and are red and black so they dont get crossed easy.

I’ve always ran batter(ies) for and only for the trolling motor and then all else on another. When I re-rigged my current boat I actually had an extra battery and space next to the starting battery that I now have a battery dedicated to the outboard and one for the accesories. I have a lot more accesories on this one than ever before drawing power though otherwise I’d never have added the extra weight to the boat. Make sure to plan for expandability in it so your not up poo creek when you want to add something later. Be sure to label what is what when you start pulling wires through too, made the assumption I would remember what was what at first, I was wrong.

Haha no worries about that. Boat is wide open. I was thinking about running three batteries. Weight isn’t much of an issue. 16ft Jon with a 50 Mariner. Runs 34-35 just me and little gear. Front end is light and I can afford to lose a little speed to add some bow weight and piece of mind.

Reading up…. Says jumper cables are a bad idea. I don’t want to create problems. I’m trying to solve them lol leaving a battery in the back won’t be too terrible. Beats $120 for new cables.

Justin,
You dont have to spend $120. I’ll bet that this example (first one I picked) would do the job, bolted to the end of your existing cables.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12ft-4-AWG-Tinned-Marine-Wire-Battery-Cable-Cables-Outboard-Yamaha-Mercury-Boat-/381014519636?hash=item58b63c2f54&vxp=mtr

HRG

Thanks for the lead. I’ll check into more options like that. I think I need 14ft at least to get them where I want them, but that’s a good start. Didn’t think to check eBay.

I run two batteries in parallel for: Motor, 3 Birds, auto bilge, Radio, Nav lights.

I run two batteries in series (24v) for trolling motor and spotlight.

I frequently do 3 day trips without any charging. Motor can keep up the charge on the 12V batteries during long runs. I shut down 2 of the 3 birds when anchored to save juice.

Something i did on my old boat when i had a 12V trolling motor: Two batteries in parallel for the trolling motor and spotlight. Everything else running off another two batteries in parallel. I also hooked up a switch so that i could run all 4 batteries in parallel in case i ran into the event where my starting batteries were dead. I also did this with the intention of switching them all in parallel when making long boat runs. Boat motors really don’t produce enough amps to charge 4 batteries though while driving – and now that i have a 24V trolling motor this setup isn’t possible (easily). I also used to run every single electronic device in my old boat on a switch. I also had multiple interior lights and other crap like that. Was easy to conserve battery and know your not getting drain when everything is on a switch.

I am going to install a switch on my current setup to disconnect everything from the main batteries when trailered just to be sure i don’t have ANY drain while stored on the trailer waiting for the next fishing trip!