Batteries?

So I was just given a used V1 Powerdrive 12v 65 ft lb with the understanding if I can fix it I can have it. I believe I fixed it. The foot pedal on it wouldn’t turn right, so I tore it apart, cut through the weatherproofing on the buttons and cleaned the contacts and put some new weatherproofing on it. So I’m now looking for batteries. I’m torn between the interstates and duracells, and group 27 vs 31. I’m going to run two batteries in parallel as I’d like to get 12+ hours on the lake in a day. So, anybody got any input?
Much obliged!

Should add that I’ve got a 1985 16′ Lund Pro Angler, roughly the size of the Lund Fury.

I would think 2 group 27’s in parallel would get you more than 12 hrs. I believe I ran 2 in parallel and could get 3 days fishing before they stalled out.

The contact points on the powedrive pedals are notorious for wearing out.

Tom schmitt wrote:

I would think 2 group 27’s in parallel would get you more than 12 hrs. I believe I ran 2 in parallel and could get 3 days fishing before they stalled out.

Awesome thanks for the info! May go that route then to save a bit of cash and weight.

gimruis wrote:

The contact points on the powedrive pedals are notorious for wearing out.

That’s what I’ve read. My other idea for fixing was to replace the control board in the motor itself with the V2 version and pick up a new pedal. Figured I’d give the cheapest option a shot first and hope for the best.

I have the interstates, 27
I can go 10 hours on the local lakes and probably more. After 9 hours w two high school kids on the bass team I fished for another 1 hour. Still had 2 bars left. This was on a metro lake, not much wings but foot peddling the trolling motor all day. I get About 8 hours in 1.5-2.5 foot waves

Sorry
Have a 1775 Lund impact
Terrova has 2 bars out of 4 left
80lb terrova

Just a note, I ordered the group 27 Duracell ultra AGM from Batteries+ last week, store said they were on backorder nationwide for AT LEAST another month, having a hard time keeping them in stock. Was able to buy a base level fla earlier this spring, no wait. So I guess look into what’s actually available.

Powerdrive V1 65 lb trust is a 24v motor, not 12v. 27s in series will last you all day, assuming you’re not in heavy current or ripping cranks/bouncers fast.

I did the circuit board swap you’re talking about and have been using a v2 pedal and copilot for a few years with no issues. Knock on wood

While we’re on the subject of batteries, what are the general feelings on lithium batteries for trolling motors, bass pro shops say 500-900 bucks probably based on size. How much longer do they last than a standard lead battery? Is it worth the price point in terms of length of life, run time (personally I don’t care about the weight)

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I’ve been using NAPA batteries for the last 4 years and haven’t had one go bad yet. They’re not badly priced either. I use group 27s in parallel for my TM batteries and a 31 for my cranking battery.

That is a powerful 12 volt trolling motor! Always go the biggest batteries you can fit, so the 31s. You rational is on the right track in my opinion. I still use wet cell batteries. I normally get 5 or 6 years out of them. Some like AGMs, for the money I believe I do better with wet cell batteries. if I take care of them. If money was not an issue, I would buy the light Lithiums, but MONEY is an issue especially for that luxury. Plus not sure my onboard charger would work for them. If you do not have an onboard charger, look into it. Game changer when it comes to time and convenience.

tswoboda wrote:

Powerdrive V1 65 lb trust is a 24v motor, not 12v. 27s in series will last you all day, assuming you’re not in heavy current or ripping cranks/bouncers fast.

I did the circuit board swap you’re talking about and have been using a v2 pedal and copilot for a few years with no issues. Knock on wood

That is VERY good to know, thank you! It’s been difficult to find anything on the V1’s it seems like. I’ve tried finding the manual online, but couldn’t on minnkotas website. Seems they want to forget it existed.

I’ll mainly just be pulling bottom bouncers at .8-1.0 mph, once I throw out the cranks I’ll switch to my main motor which idles at 2.2 mph I’ve found.

Wildlifeguy wrote:

Just a note, I ordered the group 27 Duracell ultra AGM from Batteries+ last week, store said they were on backorder nationwide for AT LEAST another month, having a hard time keeping them in stock. Was able to buy a base level fla earlier this spring, no wait. So I guess look into what’s actually available.

Yeah I was just in their store in Blaine or SLP, can’t remember which. I’d like to get an AGM (hell I’d really like to get a pair of lithiums!) But with paying over $400 a month in gas plus every other bill being the same, money’s been tight. If I get 3-5 years out of the batteries I’ll be happy. I did note that it seemed like all their base level batteries were in stock so that’s good.
Back home now near Cook, left in a hurry so I’m going to try to get my cousins wife to pick up a pair of the batteries on her way home from work in duluth this week.

I still get about 5 years out of my size 27 standard lead acid batteries. They cost about 100 bucks, give or take. For the price of a lithium battery, I better be getting about 4 or 5 times the life of a normal battery if I’m going to pay 4 or 5 times the cost. Right now the math on that doesn’t add up. Lithium will eventually go down in cost though but right now it’s not worth it.

The advantage of a lithium right now is the weight. They are a lot lighter. Make sure your chargers can be used with a lithium battery. Not all of them can.

robby wrote:

That is a powerful 12 volt trolling motor! Always go the biggest batteries you can fit, so the 31s. You rational is on the right track in my opinion. I still use wet cell batteries. I normally get 5 or 6 years out of them. Some like AGMs, for the money I believe I do better with wet cell batteries. if I take care of them. If money was not an issue, I would buy the light Lithiums, but MONEY is an issue especially for that luxury. Plus not sure my onboard charger would work for them. If you do not have an onboard charger, look into it. Game changer when it comes to time and convenience.

Agreed on all accounts! I’d love to get some lithiums, but can’t justify it. I’ll need to get an on-board charger. I’d like one that can charge both batteries plus the main starting battery, just debating on going with a 5 or 10 amp…

Just to confirm the head unit should say 24v on it, at least mine does.

For reference I have a 17′ glass tiller and have spent many 14-16 hour days musky fishing on LOTW with no battery issues. That’s with group 27 Costco variety interstates and going 0.8 – 1.2 mph all day long.

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tswoboda wrote:

Just to confirm the head unit should say 24v on it, at least mine does.

For reference I have a 17′ glass tiller and have spent many 14-16 hour days musky fishing on LOTW with no battery issues. That’s with group 27 Costco variety interstates and going 0.8 – 1.2 mph all day long.

Now that you mention it and I look closer I can see where it used to say 24v, but I’m sure you can understand how I missed it initially!

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Hah that’s a very unfortunate place for the decal to crack

Another option is to get the biggest batteries you can find,and use a Yandina Trollbridge 24 combiner.You will need only 2 batteries in the boat,one is used for cranking/accessories.It’s a neat set-up for those on a budget and don’t have the space for multiple batteries.

The best deal on batteries is/was the Duracell Platinum AGM from Sam’s Club.Same battery as the one at Batteries+,but a lot less cost and better warranty.Interstates are not what they used to be,and I would not even consider Optima.
LifePo4 batteries are a whole different animal,but with those you get what you pay for.You can run those down to 20%,and have them back at 100% in a few hours.

Matthew Craig wrote:

Agreed on all accounts! I’d love to get some lithiums, but can’t justify it. I’ll need to get an on-board charger. I’d like one that can charge both batteries plus the main starting battery, just debating on going with a 5 or 10 amp…

I just switched from a minnkota and a Noco 3 bank charger and it is extremely impressive.

Another vote for Costco Interstate

I went through similar experience you are having now. First I hope your repair lasts longer than the pedal did from manufacture. My Version 1 pedal went to heck also. I took the TM to a MK authorized repair shop and he changed the circuit board to operate with a brand new Version 2 pedal. That pedal developed broken/loose wire(s), no steering, two months before warranty, then two months after warranty, no forward operation. Bought new pedal $100.
Now batteries-I have no luck with batteries. I have two 27 Series Interstate for TM, and one Batteries Plus 27 Series Duracell Ultra for cranking, lights and all other electrical. I do alot of trolling with trolling motor for 4-6 hours continuously, and they do peter out at 7-8 hours. The Duracell I’m not quite sure about. Fully charged, starts motor fine, but running Helix7 off it seems to draw alot. There are times the Helix7 shuts off, almost like the battery is drained, but the big motor starts up good.
Like many others have said, go as big as you can within your budget or maybe splurge a little.

I just switched from a minnkota and a Noco 3 bank charger and it is extremely impressive.
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Well I found a good deal on a Minnkota 3 bank/10amp. 250 shipped so I went that route

Just an update, I picked up a set of the Interstate 27M-EFB batteries. I couldn’t find much on them, but picked them up from a local gas station and the owner has them in his boat and so far so good, think this is his first year with them. Generally I review the hell out of stuff, and don’t stray too far from the crowd. But once in a blue moon I’m willing to be a guinea pig!

Matthew Craig wrote:

Just an update, I picked up a set of the Interstate 27M-EFB batteries. I couldn’t find much on them, but picked them up from a local gas station and the owner has them in his boat and so far so good, think this is his first year with them. Generally I review the hell out of stuff, and don’t stray too far from the crowd. But once in a blue moon I’m willing to be a guinea pig!

Just don’t leave your trolling motor plugged in and charge them full before storing for the winter and they should be fine. That’s all I’ve done with mine the last three years and leave them in the boat and they’ve been great each year I’ve brought them out.

i have been working at a napa store now for about a year…and let me tell you…take that 10 amp charger back..it rill ruin deep cycles so fast you might get a year out of them…deep cycles love a long slow charge nothing more than 2 am hours…I have had pallets of them over the past year with the batteries only lasting 2 years tops…bring them inside and use a trickle charger over the winter and use the slow charge during the summer you will be much happier

Eric G wrote:

i have been working at a napa store now for about a year…and let me tell you…take that 10 amp charger back..it rill ruin deep cycles so fast you might get a year out of them…deep cycles love a long slow charge nothing more than 2 am hours…I have had pallets of them over the past year with the batteries only lasting 2 years tops…bring them inside and use a trickle charger over the winter and use the slow charge during the summer you will be much happier

Good luck finding an on-board charger rated less than 5 amps per bank. And make sure to get another set of batteries for fishing back to back days. No way a 2 amp or trickle charger will top off deep cells overnight.

Eric G wrote:

i have been working at a napa store now for about a year…and let me tell you…take that 10 amp charger back..it rill ruin deep cycles so fast you might get a year out of them…deep cycles love a long slow charge nothing more than 2 am hours…I have had pallets of them over the past year with the batteries only lasting 2 years tops…bring them inside and use a trickle charger over the winter and use the slow charge during the summer you will be much happier

I disagree with everything in your post. That 10amp Minnkota charger is a smart charger. It would charge at 10amps until the battery reaches 80% charge, then gradually step down the amperage until the battery is completely charged. Then it will go into maintenance mode. Internal damage is done to deep cycle batteries when they are stored at less than 80% of capacity for any length of time. It is good for the hattery to get to 80% capacity as quickly as possible without generating excessive heat. Interstate recommends 10 to 15amps for this phase of charging.
Batteries self discharge at a much lower rate in cold temperatures and a fully charged battery won’t freeze till somewhere in the area of -75 degrees Fahrenheit.
I delivered parts for a different parts store when I retired. We didn’t sell many deep cycle batteries but the ones I saw that were returned had been sitting on the shelf in the store for close to a year before they were sold. Always look at the mfg date on a battery when you buy one.