Tube baits

A while back James Holts did a post about fishing Jig heads and tubes. The post generated lots of good comment of different ways to rig a tube. You may want to go back and read it. What is so interesting is how a family of lures can have a totally different attracting and triggering qualities depending on how it is rigged. The discussion started around 45 or 90-degree jighead line ties. It sounds like James is swimming his baits so I would expect a forward line tie he is using to plane better because of it flatter attitude in the water. If I’m fishing a tube on the bottom to imitate a craw I want the 90 degree line tie because it will create more of a forward rocking motion as the head catches on the bottom. Much like the roller (football head) jig does. Of interest, on Lake Erie one of the keys to the “drift and drag” technique is to have a very long line between the boat and the tube. The fish were in 20-25′ of water so we weren’t spooking the fish. I think the long line altered the action to the tube in ways unknown.
Guys who fish team tournaments in large schools of smallies often have a rod ready to drop into the school while their partner holds a hooked fish. One of their tricks is to use a 90-degree line tie and actually position it in the center of the tube. When dropped vertically into the school it has a spiral drop.
Texas rigging with a worm weight verses an in-the-body weight produces a totally different fall. By the way I use Mo-Jo weights that I bend a wire loop for rather than of a bell sinker. It produces a smoother tube body. The center weight produces a horizontal fall. The Texas rig has a head first fall. Some guys fish them weightless Texas rigged over the slop.
Mountain Man mentioned an aspirin shaped head, which I would expect have a different drop and swim than a round head.
Stop and think about all different ways one can fish a lure like a tube. What a tool, the key is figuring out which action the fish want. Isn’t true, the devil is in the details.

Riverfan

Thanks for the quality post. I have been overwhelmed with the “in generals” and need the reality check. Thanks again. Once I get back into the proper mind set I hope to have quality info to share back at ya.
Jc

Riverfan,
Nice post on how the weighting system effects the presentation of a tube or other plastics for that matter. I have experimented with many hook sizes and styles as well as weights and their location to the plastic to get different results for different situations. Bait Rigs makes the Slo-poke jig with the lead in the middle of the jig (as do other companies) that also works well for a gliding or spiraling presentation. If you fish this in a non-current area it has a basic glide or spiral descent but if you use it around current like a wing dam it has even a more erratic action as the current will turn it and even push it up at times creating an even better wounded baitfish impression. Of course I am tlking about the lighter end of the weight spectrum here not the ones over 1/8th ounce. As you go heavier to match the heavier current the jigs roll or tumble more which can also be a fish getter in deeper water but for more finesse presentations and in lesser current the lighter jigs seem to work better unless the fish are really on and will hit anything and then I would be using a crankbait or spinnerbait. For flipping wood or other structure I will use a Texas rigged weight because I am usually trargeting LM and I think they prefer a more vertical drop but sometimes the slower drop and glide will turn them on especially if they have been fished hard with the standard vertical drop of Texas rigging or jig-n-pigs. I like to use the lighter mid-weighted plastics for drifting a bait into or along a side channel structure and with the light jig I can position the bait at the seam between the main current and the eddy and sometimes get the bait to change directions or almost stop in place at times and this can be a real good trigger.

The more things that you try, the more you learn.

Another available option for tubes lies with the painted hooks. I use #3/0 or #4/0 extra-wide gap Gamakatsu hooks… but they also offer the same black hook in a red epoxy coated version. When Texas-Rigged, the hook’s shiny red flash from the hook can simulate a bleeding wounded fish or just give it a different look than the next guy…

Just another thought and idea…

Bass432,

That slo-poke jig sounds like something I need to add to the arsenal. Where can I find them? I like the colored hook concept, what have you guys found as far as hook size and lure presentation?

Recently I’ve tried the new weights from Bass Pro Shops. XPS ™ Rattl’n Tube Weight. These have earned a place in my tackle box. I like them when I swim a big tube over and through weeds, slop, or wherever else I can. They are easy to use and fit in most tubes. I say most because the 1/4oz weight is a little long. I like to use the 4.5″ Strike King Tubes and the Mizmo 5.5″ tubes unless I’m fishing for smallies then I use a slightly smaller tube. Here is a link.
http://www.basspro-shops.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=44438&hvarDept=100&hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=10&hvarSubCode=3&hvarTarget=browse

Another weight I like is the Gambler Florida Rig Weights. I’m not a guy to fish a pegged weight and this eliminates the need to do so. It screws right into the plastic with no problem. Although, the 3x and Terminator Plastics won’t take one of these weights. What ends up happening is the plastic is so soft it twists with the turn of the weight a won’t screw in. I haven’t had much of a problem with the weight ripping out of the plastic either. These weights also come in a rattling style. Here is a link for these weights.
http://www.basspro-shops.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=7442&hvarDept=100&hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=10&hvarSubCode=3&hvarTarget=browse

Each type of weight causes the tube to fall differently. The Florida rig allows the tube to fall faster nose first. While the XPS weight makes the tube sink horizontally due to the fact the weight is placed behind the head into the body. Depending on how you like to work your bait each of these weights offers something for everyone.

I love the Florida Rig for heavy veg, and for pitching, as I feel I can throw more accurately with the weight attached.

For insert tube heads, I have found the Tender Tube heads from Bass Pro Give a really nice erratic action and spiral fall. I wish they came with a bit better hook though, but I love the action I get from them.

The red hooks sound like a very interesting idea. I just read about some pros going to red trebles on their cranks and traps to give a quick “flash” of blood color to their baits. Most days, probably wouldn’t make a difference, but on the tough days might be nice. Bass see best in the red/orange and blue/green wavelengths, so I imagine they can see the contrast very well. Red is also the first color absorbed by water, so this probably makes a bigger difference in shallow presentations.

I usually use a 4/0 Owner Rig-n-Hook (wide Gap) when fishing worms, Brush Hogs, lizards, etc. Texas rigged. I find though this hook is usually to big to use on any tubes under 4.5 inches and even then I can barely hook it in front of the tentacles. Makes it frustrating if I want to switch from a lizard to a tube without retying. I usually use a 2/0 when I rig a tube T-Rigged.

Riverfan,
Bait Rigs tackle is available at most tackle shops and the Slo-poke is a fairly common jig so finding them should not be a problem. I also agree with Blue Fleck on the tube insert weights. I have not used the BPS weights but they look similar to the Shaw Grigsby ones from Eagle Claw as HP weights (I think that is what they are labeled?). Glad to hear the the SM are biting for you and others. Sounds like the summer pattern is on and will be fairly consistent short of real high and dirty water. Any topwater action yet?