Polaris Sportsman 400 4×4

Hello everyone. I have a couple of questions about a 1994 Sportsman 400 4×4 I recently purchased. The guy I bought it from had rebuilt the top end, new piston and rings, new starter, battery, and temp sensor on the engine. He told me the 4 wheel drive didn’t work but the front hubs were getting power when you turned on the AWD. This quad had sat for a couple years before he bought it. The local Polaris dealer told him that the front hubs might start working one their own after he drove it for a while. On my first trip out on the ice, I noticed that the front wheels would lock in from time to time when the quad would bog down in deeper snow. Could someone tell if the quad is suppose to have full time 4×4, locked in when I turn on the AWD, or some kind of on demand only when it is needed. Next question. The quad’s hot light came on when I headed for shore at the end of the day. I was moving short distances and stopping to fish on the way out so that’s why the hot light didn’t come on until I headed for home. I shut the quad off and found that the fan was not working. The guy I bought the quad from said he had replaced the sensor on the engine but not the one on the radiator. He suggested replacing this one to see if it fixed the problem. He insists the fan was working when I bought it. This sensor costs $120 from the local Polaris dealer. Way too much $$$ if you ask me. Does anyone know a used atv parts dealer where I can get one cheaper? I know you get what you pay for, this is just an ice fishing machine so I don’t want to spend a ton of money on it. Thanks in advance.

It has “on demand” 4×4. When your rear wheels loose traction the front kicks in. Sounds like it’s working correctly, the polaris 4×4 system is a good one. One thing I would do…drain the front hubs, refill with fresh fluid. Run the machine making sure to kick in the 4×4 several times. Drain the fluid and refill again. This will help get fresh lube on everything and drain any contaminants.

Want to know for sure if your 4×4 is working…pull up to anything solid(pole, snowbank, tree) where it’s icy, hit the gas….do the front wheels kick in?

As far as the sensor, or other parts. I use “cheap cycle parts”, “bike bandit” or Ebay. I personally wouldn’t buy a sensor off ebay unless it’s new.

P.S…that switch is $108 on “cheap cycle parts” and $115 on “bike bandit”.

Just saw a 94 polaris for parts on Craigslist under the sporting goods section.

I have a 400 Polaris that the sensor went bad on ……… we now have a toggle switch that we turn the fan on with . Its wired through the key , so its off when the key is off. I couldnt make myself pay $100 + — but thats me. I know its not the right way to fix it , but has lasted a long time that way !!!

Let me take some time tonight to read over your post again. Before spending the big bucks at the dealer for the temp sensor I will find you an aftermarket option I am pretty sure. Also it seemed as though your 4×4 was working properly but i need some extra time to read it again.

http://atvfrontier.com/Knowledge_Base/op=show/kid=104.html
There ya go, should be some helpful information in that link to help you with the coolant temp sensor. FWIW some have also installed a manual “On/Off” switch but it isn’t my cup of tea.

The 4×4 system is rather straight forward. The front hubs are nothing more than a Hilliard clutch. When the clutch plates are active the simplest way to describe the operation is this. The front tires cannot turn slower than the axles because of that clutch. So when the rear begins to lose traction the vehicle slows down causing the front tires to slow. But because of the ball and ramp style clutch the axles will immediately drive the tires thus enabling AWD. If maintained even just a little there is normally no trouble with this system. The #1 problem is magnetization of the contact plates. This simply causes the hubs to stay active even with the switch off making it hard to fish tail or fool around as the 4×4 will still be engaged. Second to that is the magnetization also causes the hub to stay wedged making one or both wheels drag as it is engaged. Number one reason for all of that is contaminated hub fluid.

Be careful changing the fluid on the older machines. The three torx screws that hold the plastic hub cover in place will break causing you to have to drill them out. Assumiong all comes apart easily drain the fluid and spray the inside out with brake parts cleaner or a CLEAN degreaser. Be sure the allen head screw on the side of the hub can be removed before proceeding. Using a new O-Ring seal (Sometimes have to replace the cover too) install the cover. Now remove that allen head plug on the side of the hub. Using Polaris On Demand Hub fluid (SOme use ATF-I never do) fill the hub via the small port. CAUTION! Do not fill completely. The hole should be turned to the 4 o clock position and filled to that level. Over filling isn’t good. Install the plug and tighten.

If after all that you still have 4×4 problems we’ll need to know exactly what it is doing but getting help fixing it won’t be hard. Good luck!

Thanks for the info. It turns out the radiator fan motor is bad. I unplugged the motor and ran a jumper from the positive post of the battery to the fan and also made sure the fan motor ground was good. The motor would not run. So I’m currently trying to buy one off ebay. On the 4 wheel drive subject. The 4 wheel drive has stopped working. I have a clymer service manual that describes how to replace the fluid in the front hubs. When I removed the allen screw for the drain there was not a lot of fluid come out, half a shot maybe. The instructions say to fill the hub with the drain in the 4 o’clock position. It also says that the hub should be just over half full. Which is right? At 4 o’clock the drain hole would be slightly below horizontal and cause the fluid level to be just under half full. I filled to just over half full, about 3 o’clock and took the quad for short spin in the snow. The front wheels would not lock in. Is there a way to test the front hubs to insure that they are receiving the electrical signal? This quad sat for a couple of years before the engine was repaired and sold to me. I was told by the guy I bought it from that I may have to replace the clutch packs in the front hubs. He said he tested the hubs and they were receiving power.

http://atvfrontier.com/Knowledge_Base/op=show/kid=235.html
There is some info there that may be helpful for your fan as well. Also if you go to the Polaris website you can check a OEM part number and find all the ATVs that part was used on, also helpful when buying from Ebay.

The 4×4 hubs are to be filled to the 4 o clock position. When you switch the machine to 4×4 or AWD does the light come on when in gear? It should and if not there may be an issue with the gear sensor. If it isn’t seeing the transmission shifted into gear you’ll have no 4×4. I’m not sure if Clymer has an electrical diagram of that circuit but if so go ahead and follow it, they are fairly basic circuits. Wasn’t normally a lot of problems with those systems but heck who knows how hard the machine was ridden or how well it was taken care of.

Thanks for all the help. I will need to drain some fluid out of the front hubs. That must be a typo in the service manual about the hubs being just over half full. Yes the AWD light stays on when in gear. I was told that the clutch packs are about $40 each. I just want to be sure that any new parts I buy and put on will fix the issue at hand. I asked my local Polaris dealer some questions and the mechanic was very rude, no actually a real a$$. He asked me how stupid are you. When I told him I just wanted to be sure of how things work before I just throw money at it hoping it fixes the problem. I’ve always been a hands on fix it myself guy. I want to know how my toys work so if I have to fix them out it the wilds of IL, I can.

Good luck with the Popo! I had one of these back in 96-97 and it was the biggest pile of junk I’d ever seen. The 4×4 could be some broken wires running to the front wheels or could need a shimming of the 4×4 switch? I had alot of issues with everything on mine, and got rid of it because of it being in the shop constantly.

I was wondering when you would show up to bash Polaris….

big G

Just speaking the truth and trying to help others.

Quote:

---

I asked my local Polaris dealer some questions and the mechanic was very rude, no actually a real a$$. He asked me how stupid are you.

---

I’d never again consider setting foot in that dealership! I’d also write a letter explaining why and send it, along with copies of the receipts of the parts you buy elsewhere, to the dealer principal and owner.

Jtimm it is a known fact that any machine can and will break. I’ll also be the first to say the older Polaris ATVs were more prone to wearing out certain parts than other machines. But are they junk? No. You ain’t gonna fool this guy. Between me and my family we have well over 25000 miles, yes you read that right, between 10 different Polaris ATVs. In all those miles only one machine was towed in from the trail and only because a plug wire came off. Also let’s be honest. How many ham fisted idiots are out there completely trashing their machines and then whining because they are broken? I know people that could ruin an anvil and a steel ball bearing with nothing more than a pocket screwdriver. Imagine what they do to a complex machine!

Bottom line is simple. I’ll compare my Sportsman to any other ATV any day of the week. Isn’t another one made that is any more reliable than what is in my garage right now.

Riveratt I didn’t say they were junk, I said the one I had was. I personally think that most polaris’s are not the most reliable, and that’s my opinion. Older popo’s are ALOT more prone to breaking down, being that they had a 3 chain drive system, and their 4×4 system is kinda quirky. I’ve read and seen alot of reliability issues with popo atv’s. I’am a person that USES my machine, not just in the grass or on easy trails or dirt roads. I agree all machines can and will break something at some point, but I’ve seen more breakages on the polaris’s.

Well considering the 3 chain drive system hasn’t been around for some 10-12 years I say whoop de do. It’s more than ancient history. At this point any machine that old is more prone to breakage than a newer one in theory. The 4×4 system kinda quirky? Not in my experience. Considering most have all copied Polaris in one way or another that says something. And the current style with ADC is about impossible to beat for the masses. I also doubt you are abnormal in that you use your machine. Certainly nothing special about using them in mud and rough terrain. My dad uses his to pull trailers of firewood in the winter that his 8N can’t pull out of the woods. I’d say his is worked harder than average. Still runs and rides about like new. Other machines will likely do the same (With exception to the Honda 3×4’s) but the over all package they offer isn’t what the Sportsman line has that better suits our tastes.

Again ain’t fooling this guy into thinking their is a superior brand that outshines Polaris. I’ve been around them all and have way too much experience with P to think they are inferior. Judging by their sales popularity it seems a lot of others agree.

I have seen Junk Honda, Yamaha & especially Suzuki, they are everywhere…. If seeing one with problems makes em junk, there is plenty of labeling to go around….

big G

The reason I say their quirky is all the different problems I’ve read on them. From the hub fluid, the magnets, wires running down to the front tires, the 4 WD switch that needs to be shimmed (I don’t even know what that means?) The 4 WD only works in reverse if you hold down on a button, which is a pain in the a$$ when plowing. Also the belt setup on them could be improved as well. Anyhow, back to helping the guy out with his popo, as I think he’ll be needing it.

Quote:

---

The reason I say their quirky is all the different problems I’ve read on them.

---

That you’ve READ on them? Not exactly the proof I’d normally require, lol.

Quote:

---

From the hub fluid, the magnets, wires running down to the front tires, the 4 WD switch that needs to be shimmed (I don’t even know what that means?)

---

What about the hub fluid? It is lubrication and all bearings need it. What magnets? There are no “magnets” in the 4×4. Shimming a switch? Want to know why you don’t know what that means? Well for starters there is no such thing. At the very best you’ve stumbled onto some hacks method of trying to repair something he broke after physically damaging the switch either from impact or agro engineering. Not exactly the credible stuff I’d normally use as “proof” of a products quality, lol.

Quote:

---

The 4 WD only works in reverse if you hold down on a button, which is a pain in the a$$ when plowing.

---

A safety feature Polaris invented and the rest adopted. Yet it serves a very useful purpose. For those that truly understand a CVT transmission they understand that the machine will go, depending on gear ratios, as fast in reverse as in forward. This is protection built in to protect clueless people from killing themselves quite so fast. I’ve personally used the over ride button since 1996. Took about 8 minutes to master.

Quote:

---

Also the belt setup on them could be improved as well.

---

I assume you’ve identified a problem? If so please share. And don’t try selling me on the “they burn belts” junk. Low range is there for a specific reason. When used the belt will not slip. When used properly the system is just fine. That said the new Polaris models are sporting a new CVT style transmission. And it works fine as well. Another non issue.

Quote:

---

Anyhow, back to helping the guy out with his popo, as I think he’ll be needing it.

---

And so helpful you have been, thanks!

As a certain catfisherman I know would say…<Snicker>

I have lots of friends with lots of different rides. All have their problems and all have their plus’s. I love my Polaris, and nobody who owned one and had problems 12 years ago is going to sway my opinion of mine today. I do my own maintenance and upkeep. You should do that with any wheeler, regardless of make. Things are gonna wear out based on use. Things are gonna break.

R-Rat…your point on low range is good advice! It is there for a reason. Many people in my opinion overlook the low range. When pulling, climbing or low speed mudding…low range is the key! I swear my 800 would climb trees if I let it in low range. I have buddies with Honda, Yamaha, Can Am and Suzuki. There is always good natured ribbing. But we all have fun, and that is the name of the game.

Here’s one thing I read I can post alot more if you don’t believe me: There should be two wires encased in silicone (blue I think) running down the legth of the aluminum strut casting to the hub, the wires run down to the magnet inside the hub that engages and disengages the 4 wheel drive on each side. Check to see that the wires are intact and not torn out or broken anywhere

The reverse override is understood, but with it only being in 2 WD before you push in the button is the poor design I’m referring to.

Bristows was the dealer that told me they needed to “shim” my 4×4 on the popo I had as the 4WD would go out on it all the time.

I’m not trying to sway you popo lovers on anything as I know I’m hitting a sore spot by your immediate defending of your beloved polaris. Enjoy what you ride, and good luck!

Had a kid here in Hastings die a while back on a wheeler that did not have or had a bypassed reverse overide. Went over backwards without a helmet and killed him. And you don’t have to be going fast for it to happen.