Just purchased a 2006 Z 440 LX that hits 40 top end motor runs very good lots of compession but no speed primary cluch has a white spring think it should be red could this be the problem or something else?
crogers
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Just purchased a 2006 Z 440 LX that hits 40 top end motor runs very good lots of compession but no speed primary cluch has a white spring think it should be red could this be the problem or something else?
I have a 89 panther that did the same thing. It wound out just fine but I could only get 40 mph. Terns out one of the clutches were out. So in my opinion that is were I would start.
Sounds to me like something is binding in the clutches. Broken spring perhaps?
My advice would be to take them both off, take them apart, and clean them thoroughly with warm soapy water and compressed air. While you have them apart, check all the bushings for wear, and make sure the springs aren’t sagged or broken.
Then get a black marker and draw lines on the sheaves of the primary and driven clutches, put everything back together, and go for a ride. Make sure you get it wide open somwhere, and the black marks will give you a quick check to see how far the clutches are shifting. The black mark should be gone to very near the top of the drive clutch and bottom of the driven if they’re shifting fully like they’re supposed to. If one side is worn more than the other, it’s telling you your clutches are out of alignment.
Good luck,
Waxy
I thought the question answered itself.
As a Polaris guy I couldnt pass it up…
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Sounds to me like something is binding in the clutches. Broken spring perhaps?
My advice would be to take them both off, take them apart, and clean them thoroughly with warm soapy water and compressed air. While you have them apart, check all the bushings for wear, and make sure the springs aren’t sagged or broken.
Then get a black marker and draw lines on the sheaves of the primary and driven clutches, put everything back together, and go for a ride. Make sure you get it wide open somwhere, and the black marks will give you a quick check to see how far the clutches are shifting. The black mark should be gone to very near the top of the drive clutch and bottom of the driven if they’re shifting fully like they’re supposed to. If one side is worn more than the other, it’s telling you your clutches are out of alignment.
Good luck,
Waxy
Use carb cleaner soap leaves a film. Check all moving parts to make sure they move freely. Good luck
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I thought the question answered itself.
As a Polaris guy I couldnt pass it up…
Oh, I see….you thought he had a Polaris motor in it, didn’t you???
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I thought the question answered itself.
As a Polaris guy I couldnt pass it up…
Oh, I see….you thought he had a Polaris motor in it, didn’t you???
What kind of ATV do you have Chris ???? Old sledheads die hard….
big G
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Use carb cleaner soap leaves a film. Check all moving parts to make sure they move freely. Good luck
Straight from SnowTech Magazine –
“The second issue basically has to do with clutching system cleanliness. When you buy new drive belts, they have a trace of mold release on the surface of the belt from the manufacturing process. This mold release, if not removed, will transfer to the clutch faces and absorb into the pores of the aluminum. This material will increase the possibility of slippage and of course, power reduction to the ground. Other contaminants such as oil, grease and gasoline are also an issue. Build up of rubber on the clutches can also reduce performance; the clutch sheaves must be clean so they can grab the belt. The first caution about cleaning clutches and belts is to never use any solvent based cleaners. This may come as a surprise to many of you, but this would include petroleum, alcohol, cleaning solvent and miscellaneous chemical based products. Things like carb cleaner, brake cleaner, electric contact cleaner, parts washing solvent and so on. For the most part, residue from these products is absorbed into the pores of the aluminum, or simply washes contaminants into the pours to come out later and become permanently attached to the belt; causing slippage.
I have heard of hundreds of cleaning methods over the years, but there is only one method that I believe to be really effective. Use a piece of Scotch BriteTM pad or steel wool to scuff off any heavy rubber buildup on the clutch faces. For heavy buildup you can use 180 grit sand paper with caution not to over sand and create low spots. Then wash the clutch faces with hot soapy water (hotter the better) since the heat and soap will tend to draw contamination from the aluminum. Finish by wiping dry or air blow dry. The belt must be cleaned also using a medium to soft (nylon) bristle brush and the hot soapy water to remove contaminants. Dry the belt completely before installing. Be sure not to overlook clutch compartment cleanliness as well. If the compartment is coated with belt dust, oil, fuel, weeds and whatever you can just guess where it will eventually end up.”
These guys know their stuff.
Here’s the article it’s taken from on cleaning and servicing clutches –
http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/articles/2002/horsepower.php
Waxy
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I thought the question answered itself.
As a Polaris guy I couldnt pass it up…
Oh, I see….you thought he had a Polaris motor in it, didn’t you???
What kind of ATV do you have Chris ???? Old sledheads die hard….
big G
What kind of truck do you drive? What does a sled have to do with a wheeler??
Oh I don’t know… maybe a sled and ATV could have the same manufacturer. My truck is a DODGE My sled and ATV are POLARIS
big G
G, at least you have 2 out of 3 things right.
Also, I’m no sled head techie, but Clint perhaps your Artic Cat was clutched/jetted for out West riding????
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