ATV/snowmobile tilt trailer traction

I have a standard 2 place flow tilt trailer that I’ve only used for my ATV when ice fishing for the past few years. Traction can be a big issue if there’s any snow on the trailer. The ATV will often slide off the trailer before it gets to the tipping point for the tilt trailer to drop back to the normal trailering position. I just picked up a snowmobile and will be using that also this ice season and will need to address the lack of traction on the trailer (its just straight plywood right now). I want something that will help both the ATV and the snowmobile. I’ve seen guys use old snowmobile tracks. I don’t have one of those lying around so I’d have to buy one. If I have to buy something, I figure I will buy something that’s made for this purpose. Also want to avoid having something like a mat that will trap moisture between the mat and the wood and eventually lead to rotting wood. I’m looking at the caliber trax grabbers. I know they would work well for the snowmobile but not sure if they would help with the ATV also.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

ATV tire chains should solve your problem, plus give you better traction on ice. I’ve never had an issue when I used a plywood tilt trailer with chains. Snowmobiles usually have enough friction from the track to stay in one place before it tilts.

Hate to say it, but how fast are you riding up the trailer?…if you go too slow, there isn’t much on the market that will keep you from sliding on ice with an ATV. Tilt trailers should be loaded swiftly, a big reason lot’s of people dislike them for the safety factor.

maybe go to a Snowmobile repair shop and ask if they have any old tracks they are going to throw out or recycle, cut the track in half and screw it down to the sides of the plywood trailer flooring…

I have two of these Floe tilt trailers. I love em and I can load anything at a snails pace. Speed is not needed if you have the correct traction aid.

I have a traction rubber mat that I bought at Macs Hardware. I haven’t had any rotting issues but I see the concern. I’ve had them on there for almost 10yrs I think.

The other trailer came with the old snowmobile track and I feel this is the best way to go. You can drive a wheeler up the trailer at just a crawl even with light snow on the trailer.

I’d call around. An old snowmobile track should be cheap and easy to find.

Eagle – I always get a running start and still end up sliding back off the ramp on the ATV. The problem is there isn’t a lot of room for error, meaning if you go to fast, you will end up sliding off the front of the trailer into the back of the truck. Its all about finding the sweet spot as far as how fast you need to be going to get on the trailer – sometimes that means it takes me 5 or 6 times to finally get on the trailer enough to have the tilt drop down. Its different every time depending on conditions.

Gitchi Gummi wrote:

Eagle – I always get a running start and still end up sliding back off the ramp on the ATV. The problem is there isn’t a lot of room for error, meaning if you go to fast, you will end up sliding off the front of the trailer into the back of the truck. Its all about finding the sweet spot as far as how fast you need to be going to get on the trailer – sometimes that means it takes me 5 or 6 times to finally get on the trailer enough to have the tilt drop down. Its different every time depending on conditions.

Wow I think you need to put down some tracks before you get hurt! I’ve never had that much excitement loading anything on these trailers. Tracks not only help you drive up slow they allow you to stop when you want. No sliding

I know. thats why I am asking for advice on applications that will work with both sleds and wheelers.

I dont see how you can solve this without putting something on the deck.

Either your sled is studded and ATV chained or the trailer deck must have traction enhancement.
Maybe something as simple as pieces of wood screwed to the trailer bed so your tires have something to grab?

I’ve had the exact same problem of needing that perfect speed and tipping point before running off the front of the trailer with the four wheeler, so I assume you have an 8ft trailer like me. I used some rebar and fabricated two grid looking pieces like the caliber trax grabbers that you asked about, and bolted it down to the deck. It works great. I’m a little skeptical of those trax grabbers because they’re plastic, but the design appears like it would work great.

I had the same Floe 8 x 10 tilt trailer since 1998. After having an awful time trying to load two sleds on an iced down trailer after a lake trout trip on Saganaga (ended having to lift the second sled on the trailer), I bought a $90 aluminum bifold ATV ramp from Cabelas.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/auto-atv/atv-utv/atv-utv-towing-transport/vehicle-ramps-accessories/pc/104796180/c/630506880/sc/630508680/i/104524380/yutrax-atv-super-lite-bi-fold-loading-ramps/1153073.uts?slotId=3

I added 6″ of OSB to the outside of each bifold with U bolts so the carbides wouldn’t ride over the ramp, and drilled 1/4 inch holes in the 4 tabs for the ramp. Then placed it on each side of the trailer where I would load a sled/wheeler, and drilled thru the bed where the 2 outside tab holes were. Then I just put a couple bolts that were long enough to go thru the tabs and bed to hold it in place when I loaded.
No more slipping loading. I used that method the last 10 years. I still just used the tilt to unload sleds (cant back down the ramp) but used the ramp for loading sleds and loading/unloading ATV’s.
The ramp was folded and stored in the truck bed or was strapped down on the trailer for travel. Served me very well for a reasonable price.
Oh and when trailering any distance, both sleds were ratchet strapped down in the back to the trailer.

blank wrote:

I used some rebar and fabricated two grid looking pieces like the caliber trax grabbers that you asked about

Great idea! Any problem with rust all over?

Joe Scegura wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>blank wrote:</div>
I used some rebar and fabricated two grid looking pieces like the caliber trax grabbers that you asked about

Great idea! Any problem with rust all over?

I used a rattle can to paint them quick since I built them and needed to use them quick, but yeah there is some rust showing. I’m not overly concerned with it since I don’t have much money invested in it, but another shot with the paint can wouldn’t hurt. I can remove them fairly easy since they’re held on with just 4 bolts each. I’ll have to do that before the ice season.

I’ve seen people add strips of 1/2 inch treated plywood to form a “ladder pattern” on the deck of the trailer for traction. To me, this has the best chance of not producing rot like a rubber mat could and also it’s easy to add and replace.

Grouse

I have the caliber grabbers on my enclosed trailer and they are amazing.

Have not had an issue since.

Rick

TheFamousGrouse wrote:

I’ve seen people add strips of 1/2 inch treated plywood to form a “ladder pattern” on the deck of the trailer for traction. To me, this has the best chance of not producing rot like a rubber mat could and also it’s easy to add and replace.

I agree with adding the strips of plywood. Its quick easy and should work great. I have a tilt trailer and load 2 wheelers on all winter. Never had a issue. But I run tire chains

suzuki wrote:

I dont see how you can solve this without putting something on the deck.

lol – maybe I wasn’t clear enough in the first post but this is exactly why I created the topic. there are a million different ways people have added traction to their trailers and I’m looking for advice on what people have tried and whats worked.

I like the idea of treated wood strips. Cheap and easy.

If you don’t have a plow on and have a winch, sometimes after some freezing drizzle/ice, even with chains, I would winch mine on. Fell off the front once, no brake action and actually slid on the iced up trailer.